two lube questions

[norm]

1. Anyone know a reason not to run a K+N Oil Filter? The shop I buy from carries the Wix and K+N (among others) but I would like to run the K+N, unless convinced otherwise.

2. I have some Valvoline "high performance" 80W-90 to use in front and rear diffs. Any techs out there not recommend it? (I don't think I can realize much mileage benefit from synthetic - not tripping or towing - just running my 9K service truck to jobs)

BTW - I am only pulling 11 or 12 mpg from this barn door...

[DmaxMaverick]

1. K&N doesn't manufacture oil filters. They just label them. Find out the manufacturer and you may answer your own question. Just because it says K&N on the lable does not mean it is a good (or bad) filter. If it is considerably less expensive, there is probably a reason why. Fram is a very inexpensive filter, but you won't find one on any of my vehicles.

2. I do not recommend dino oil for any gear box or differential unless you have limited slip (based on my opinion, experience, and some facts). If your truck has the RPO G80, it has a locker, not limited slip. If you have upgraded to a limited slip, go with the manufacturer's recommendation.
Dino oil does not handle heat, cold, moisture and pressure nearly as well as synthetics do. You can use dino oil successfully, but it creates an additional vulnerability when the vehicle is operated in cold country. Using synthetic lubes for gear boxes and diff's won't cost any more than dino lube, and in many cases is less expensive in the long haul. You can extend your service intervals well beyond the cost break-point and reduce wear, as well as possibly increasing economy.

Your truck weighs in at 9K. That, realistically, is like a stock weight truck towing a medium weight trailer all the time. Most people tow ocasionally and drive around "empty" the rest of the time. Your situation requires that you adjust your service intervals accordingly. You are actually placing more load on your truck than the same weight truck/trailer combination. The weight you haul around does not have the assistance of trailer brakes, and a trailer to help carry the load. That translates to more stress and heat placed on the entire powertrain and braking system.

Hope this helps to shed some light on your situation.

[norm]

Thanks for the input. You are right about the G80 - gov-lok diff - no l.s./no friction mod. etc. Maybe now is the time to switch to synthetic in the diffs. Truck now has 116,500 miles which I know is not a lot, but I purchased it a couple years ago with low miles and now put about 20K per year. I doubt if it was serviced very well, but it wasn't beat to death either.
(just as a control factor: is there anyone out there who likes using reg. lube in diffs w/o l.s.?)

The K+N is unique - I thought they made them - the can has a 1" wrench nut on the end for easy removal, which is neat. If someone else produces them (like Wix makes Napa) it appears to be proprietary - I haven't seen others like it. (generally they run $10 each)

[DickWells]

Norm: Three or 4 years ago, I read Dr Lee's article on oil filters. I came away convinced that the Baldwin filter was the way to go. I went to Baldwins, and I won't change until the Dr. comes up with something better. I've proved beyond a doubt that one Baldwin is worth at least two premium Frams. They're cheaper too!
Oil is another thing that I feel strongly about. I found that Castrol SynTec beat Rotella by a long shot. With combo of Baldwin filter and Castrol 15-40, I get cleaner, longer lasting service, by at least 30%. I get from 1500 to 1800 miles before I have to add a quart, depending on how hard I'm pulling. I change every 3000.
Anyway, for what it's worth.
Dick Wells