Just an idea

[Robyn]

As I have posted already, I am in the process of getting a 506 block 6.5 back together now and I was toying with the idea of setting up a couple additions to my engine stand so I can run the engine prior to doing the install in the 91.

This would be a great oportunity to run in the engine and debug any little issues such as oil leaks or ???? that pop up.

Would also be a good way to easily access everything thats tough in the chassis too for the original start up.

I am thinking this is the engine I am going to use the Banks turbo on so I can set up everything for a trial run.

I have an old cast iron powerglide ring laying in the corner and with a little additional steel can fashion a good mount to set the engine in for the test run up.

The garden hose will work fine to provide the needed cooling for even extended run time of say an hour or more.

Electrical for the glow plugs and the IP and such can be whipped up with some quick magic and run manually for a good test fire up

I have the Banks exhaust system so it could be bolted on and laid out on blocks to keep the noise down.

This should prove to be fairly easy to do and hopefully beneficial too.
My 91 has been jacked up clear to the moon so crawling in and out of the engine bay has its issues.

Once the run in is done and if all goes well, the swap into the truck will be very easy.
After the install it should be little more bother than a normal start up would be to go to the store.


Hmmmm :D Just a thought at this time

[mkhagemann]

sounds like a good idea, but with limitations. im a ASME master engine machinist, back serveral years ago i built race engines for some of my local tracks. the rule in some classes made us run flat tappet cams, so i built a run-in stand for the purpose of cam break-in. usually 10 - 15 mins run time. today most engines are machined for moly rings and what we call plateau honing. this almost eliminates the ring break-in period. the down side is long idling after a new installation can cause the rings to glaze, if this happens proper ring seating my never take place. now a days the practice is to use the engine dyno at part load to break the engine in or install in the vehicle and idle the engine only long enough to check for leak and fluid levels, then drive it under controlled conditions. if you do make the run-in stand i do recommand a radiator, it helps the engine maintain proper temp. a small radiator with an electric fan works good. if you use head studs its great to retorque after the first heat cycle.

95 GMC 3500HD, intercooled, aftermarket turbo, chip, fuel sys mods, 4.5 exhaust, blueprinted engine - lower comp,head and manifold porting. cant tell what kind of hp, but its faster than our 300hp dmax truck, plus it weighs 2000lb. more!