6.2 Banks Turbo Install Question

[darkroad]

I am getting ready to install the used Banks 6.2 turbo kit upgraded with a TEO6H Powerstroke turbo that I got off e-bay and I have a few questions for those of you that have installed them. I downloaded the Banks manual foir this kit. My question is do you need the lower radiator hose from banks or will the original stock one clear? I seem to remember someone saying that you needed to push the banks hose as far up the water pump as possible for clearance. Also I need to run a return line off the turbo. Would you take the chance and drill and weld a bung in the oil pan or would you modify the fuel pump mounting plate? Also since I am not going to have time before vacation to get my low compression short block done is there a way to limit the pressure thru the wastegate?

Thanks for all your help

Darkroad

[Craig M]

The pressure on the Banks unit is relatively low, 7 psi or so, so you should have no trouble with the stock compression engine. Welding a nipple on the oil pan works just fine.

[Robyn]

I would call Banks and order the fuel pump plate they have that has the drain fitting already in it.

I have one of their late units and the little drain they have is a neat and clean setup.

The lower hose is a bit of a wikerbill.
I have not gotton that far yet with my setup but you might think about looking it over and having a local exhaust shop bend up a steel pipe to replace the bulk of the hoses length and use two short silicone hoses to couple the ends to the water pump and the radiator outlet.
Be sure to put a hose retention ridge around the ends of the pipe so the clamp has something to back up against.

If you have access to a wire welder a nice bead all the way around the end of the pipe about a quarter of and inch in from the end will suffice.
Just be sure the weld is nice and smooth with no nasty spots that will damage the hose.

I have done this on other projects and it works sweet.
Another way is to turn up a nice little ring in the lathe and sweat solder it onto each end of the pipe.

If you decide to to the Ring thing be sure the pipe is bare steel and not the aluminized stuff. If its aluminized the solder will not stick to the pipe.
Brazing the rings on also works well.

The main issue is to provide a passage for the coolant that will not sucumb to the nasty heat from the crossover pipe and also you need to provide enough flex at the connections especially at the radiator so you dont over stress the outlet nipple on the radiator.

Many of the class 8 trucks use steel pipe in these areas so its not all that off the wall of an idea.
The radical bends needed then dont have to be made into a hose that will need to be replaced and the little short couplers are very cheap in comparison.

Once you get the pipe all done and fit and sure that is will work, clean and paint it well on the outside surface with quality paint. Do this even in the area that the hoses will sit. The inside will be fine even bare as the antifreeze wont bother it.

Another thought here, with the Banks hose if you need another one out on the road its going to be hard coming and if you use a steel pipe the short connectors are standard stuff found almost anywhere there is a parts store.

The Original Banks turbo was set up to be self limiting by its size and the size and configuration of its turbine wheel and would deliver only about 7 PSI
The unit off the stroke is anyones guess as to what it will do.
Depending on how the wastegate is actuated will dictate how to get this handled.
The strokes were all computer controlled so you may need to do a little farmyard engineering and make yourself an adapter to use one of the little spring things like are available for the 6.5TD
This would allow you to set the wastegate to blow open at 7-8 PSI

Not a real problem, just a little fooling around.

You might even be able to adapt one of the early 6.5 spring actuated wategate controlers from a 92-93

Just be sure you dont over stuff the little 6.2 as it wont really like 15 psi.

Hmm well it might like it, but while its slurping up all that lovely boost it just might MELT its little self.


Hope this helps


Robyn

[ccatlett1984]

I am pretty sure that the banks turbos should put out around 12psi of boost at peak, not 8psi. and more boost wouldnt melt the engine, adding too much fuel does that. although with too much boost you might hurt something in the bottom end.

[Robyn]

As has been mentioned before, no fuel equals no boost.
You cant just wind up boost for the sake of boost.
The system has to have a volume of hot expanding gases going through the turbo to make boost.
The gases come from burning fuel in the engine.
Just because you tweek the turbo or the waste gate Or ??? does not arbitrarily give boost.

My 500 HP Cat will produce boost figures just a little past 30PSI when under load but once the load falls off such as cresting a hill and the fuel drops off away goes the boost.
Just like reving the engine without a load will not produce any boost.

Stick with the stock stuff on the 6.2 or at least keep the fuel set at a reasonable level with the new turbo.

[DmaxMaverick]

I hate to sound like a broken record, but.......

Where does boost come from?

Heat energy transformed to torsional energy, which drives the compressor. In the absence of heat energy (fuel), boost will be hard to come by.

You can overboost the equation by a little, but you lose energy (power) because the exhaust will be too restricted for the relative power output. I doubt your turbine housing is small enough to create this situation.

If you aren't making black smoke, you will gain nothing by increasing boost. The fuel isn't there to support it. If you are making black smoke, you are either overfueled, or underboosted.

[john8662]

Banks Radiator Hose?

Yes, get it and install it.

The factory hose will clear the crossoverpipe, but not by much.

The Banks hose gives the reasonable safety margin necessary in this install.

Both of my TD installs in 80's chassis don't use the Banks x-over pipe though, so I increased clearance (slightly).

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/504/medium/Custom-X-over.jpg

[RoverIIa]

I recently completed a similar project in an 83 K10. I did not like the way that the stock hose fit (touched the crossover pipe) and my installation manual said that the Banks solution was to wrap the hose in heat shielding. I wasn't going for that one.

I ended up getting a couple of black steel pipe weld-on 90's, and a short section of straight pipe. I think it was 2". Might have been 1 1/2. I laid out the parts on a workbench alongside a new hose, and cut and welded them to follow the same path as the hose. Cutting the ends off of the hose created a couple of flexible joints, and a bunch of clamps held the whole thing together.

I think I might have gotten lucky on my cutting and welding, as it lines up just about perfectly, through a curve in 3 directions, but it worked. An added benefit is that the clearance is increased slightly because the pipe has a little bit smaller diameter than the hose.

I tried the exhaust-pipe route, and could not find anyone that could bend a tight enough radius. I did not want to try welding up the thin stuff for something as crucial as water hose, but the SCH 40 black pipe is absolutely good enough.

I know that the smaller diameter will theoretically restrict flow, but I am betting that it won't be significant enough to worry about.

-Nate

[Robyn]

I have done one for this sort of application and just bought ready made bends and cut and welded them.

I used my wire feed and it was fine. Just got to tack it all good and be sure of the fit and then zipper it up good.

A tig is the ticket for this stuff. I just got my tig operational today after it has sat in the corner for 3 years.

The schedule 40 pipe is definately a little overkill but fuction is everything for sure.

I would never be happy with wrapping a radiator hose with heat insulators.

The Banks system is nice but I am not real impressed with the little pieces of fancy bailing wire they ship with the kits to tie the heat insulator materials onto pipes and hoses.
Looks to me like a last minute fix to get things out the door.

I realize sometimes good engineering costs $$$$ but Banks has a good name and to include Bailing wire in a kit that cost over $2K tweeks me a little bit the wrong way.

Even my worst backyard engineering will never include bailing wire.
Its fine out in the brush to get you home.
Maybe a couple extra stainless hose clamps and a bean can that's been sacrificed for the task.

I can remember using a V8 juice can and a couple clamps for a heat shield on some wires on an engine swap once.
We at least had the class to paint the can silver so it looked sort of like it belonged there

Another pet peave is the clowns that take off good usable wire clips and then replace them with zip ties.

I can be very anal about some things.
Its the little stuff that will leave you hung out to dry out in the middle of nowhere :eek:

[JeepSJ]

As someone who has a TE06H installed, I can give you my real world results with the turbo. Out of the box as delivered by Banks, I can get mine to boost to about 11psi. Keep in mind that I have a full 3.5" exhaust and a big open element intake, so your boost may be slighty more or less depending on your setup. One of the other members here also reported about 11psi out of the box with one of those turbos.

Also, the TE06H is the turbo for the PRE-Powerstroke 7.3. This turbo was not designed for any type of computer controlled operation.

Also, the wastegate on these is fully adjustable.