Checklist for buying used 6.5

[trbankii]

With my other post here, '93 6.5TD w/ NV4500 (http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=009155), I've been trying to search to get an idea of what things I should put on my checklist when appraising a possible purchase.

Basically, I'm sort of wondering what specific things I should be looking for if I find a truck to consider. I know that I really cannot determine if there is any block cracking without actually opening up the engine. I'll go over the truck to look for anything obvious and put it through its paces during the test drive. But what suggestions do people have?

[More Power]

Discovering how well the engine starts after an overnight shut-down will tell you a lot about the glow system, injection system, fuel supply system, engine compression, starter, and batteries. Depending on the overnight low temperature, the engine should start quickly and begin running smoothly soon after starting. There may be some white smoke during startup, but it should quickly disappear as the engine continues to run.

Jim

[sturgeon-phish]

Look in the bed for rails from a 5th wheel or the holes where the rails were, or a goose neck ball. Look at the receiver for an elongated pin hole. This will tell if truck was used for heavy trailering. Cleanlyness of motor. Not squeaky clean necessarly but not a pigpin either. Do a Carfax. If serious and have the time an oil analysis. Ware on pedals inline with milege on odometer. Things like gages, aftermarket exhaust remote FSD good, chips I'd be leery of. Maintenance record?

[trbankii]

Thanks for the suggestions. Luckily, we're currently in a bid of a cool spell (at least for August), so that may come in handy.

Wear and signs of abuse should be about the same whether diesel or gasser, so I feel somewhat capable of scoping that stuff out. Just not as sure of the diesel specific stuff -- so Jim's suggestions about what to look for when starting is good.

Do I have any chance of diagnosing any signs of cracked block and some of the other >major< issues? Since I plan on keeping this for quite some time, I'm pretty much planning on tearing it down once purchased. Just not sure that someone would let me tear things apart before buying it... smile.gif

[Aryeh Levy]

There's a test kit that auto dealers use that detects antifreeze in the oil. it detects glycerin /antifreeze. that should tell you if the cracks(most likely has em) leak significant antifreeze, or are sealed up with combustion deposits.

[dieselrealtor]

Depending on how far you plan to go on the tear down after the purchase, you may seriously consider trying to find one with a junk engine, (the ones I have seen on ebay with engine problems don't bring very much) this way you are not paying the premium for something that you are going to be rebuilding anyway. :D

[trbankii]

I had considered a "junk" engine, but after seeing what the cost of people are paying for a new block it would be a heck of a lot cheaper to find a whole truck with a block in decent shape and then go from there.

I'm looking forward to the (supposedly) upcoming article on the splayed mains and would consider doing that to a truck. I figure that I'll be opening it up and doing what I can to make it last. Definitely gear drive timing. Have to see what other mods would be worthwhile.

I actually went and took a look at a truck today. A base level 2500 longbed that is obviously a work truck -- rubber mats, cloth interior, no frills. But that is what I'm looking for. There were some minor dings and the paint was peeling, but that can be fixed up. The engine was a bit on the dirty side (which told me that it wasn't steam cleaned) but also showed no leaks. Crawled under it and no signs of rust. The price could be right - $4K with 131K on the odometer.

Started right up, a bit of white smoke. Seemed to run well. Only major problem I saw was that when the dealer went to move it out so I could take it for a test drive he lost the clutch. Initially we thought it was the slave cylinder, but turned out to just be the hydraulic line just before it went into the slave. Ruptured and sprayed the frame rail with fluid. That pretty much told me that it has sat for awhile, so I was further impressed with how promptly it had started. So the dealer is going to get the line replaced on Monday and I'm going to see how it drives.

Have to see...

[ 08-27-2005, 04:05 PM: Message edited by: trbankii ]

[rameye]

I paid to have a compression test, best money I ever spent!

[trbankii]

That's a good suggestion, Rameye. Thanks! I'm trying to track down one of the antifreeze testers. The "consumer" places (PepBoys, AutoZone, etc) had no idea. Have to try a couple of the jobber shops, but they won't be open until Monday.

[6.542762mw]

If the local auto parts places dont have those testing kits, try a equipment dealer. I work for a John Deere dealer in Salt Lake City that has all those testing kits. (remember if nothing runs like a Deere, than nothing smells like a john)


Mark