fuel pump help

[avgjoes]

I have a 6.2 with the DB2 pump in a suburban. my manual lift pump went out a month ago. I replaced the pump and filter and all was well till a few days ago when the truck was bit by the hard starting bug. It starts and runs right away even when its real cold. but dies in 4 or 5 seconds. ( runs out of gas?) I would like to eliminate the manual pump and go straiegt to an electronic lift pump. I would also like to get rid of the stock fuel filter and go to a spin on? I am look for idea, advice? pictures ect.
Getting a new car is out of the question. This one is our very favorite. (most of the time:rolleyes: )
Thanks for any help

[ccatlett1984]

you can use the electric pump from a truck that had a 6.5L in it, you will have to mess with the fuel lines though. to block off the hole when you remove the mech. pump you just need a block off plate for a sbc.
dont forget to remove the rod that drives the pump.

you should get many years out of a replacement pump, and the mech. ones are only around $20. The electric pumps are around $120.

and of course if you go with an electric pump, wire it up to an ignition hot. and use an in-line fuse.

[bbbear]

I have a 6.2 with the DB2 pump in a suburban. my manual lift pump went out a month ago. I replaced the pump and filter and all was well till a few days ago when the truck was bit by the hard starting bug. It starts and runs right away even when its real cold. but dies in 4 or 5 seconds. ( runs out of gas?) I would like to eliminate the manual pump and go straiegt to an electronic lift pump. I would also like to get rid of the stock fuel filter and go to a spin on? I am look for idea, advice? pictures ect.
Getting a new car is out of the question. This one is our very favorite. (most of the time:rolleyes: )
Thanks for any help

Filter for the Early Diesels, and a Performance Update, by Lee Swanger, "The Clevite Kid."
This is an old article, and should be listed in the archieves.
Lee installed an electric pump from Autozone, part # E 8012S for $39.95. He writes that Autozone also sells the genuine AC fuel pumps but the price is twice as much. His pump only draws 1.5 amps, so you don't need a relay. He also added a racor filter. He can switch it on for starting and turns it off for running, saving it for an emergency, or when he changes filters.

I have a simular set up on my MB and only use an inline clear filter. So far I've driven about 11000 flawless mile on this set up. I also intend to do the same on my new old 1986 GMC 6.2L , only I'll also add a heated fuel sump chamber simular to the MB set up, because I also intend to burn WVO in the GMC. Like the MB, I'll add another heated fuel sump chamber just prior to entering the IP....

[bbbear]

BTW, the price for that pump is now $49.95. I'll pick mine up within the hour, and be prepared for the next sunny day. ;) It seems to me it would your cheapest solution. Like Dr Lee, you can start the engine with the electic pump, and later switch to manual. Or, as I intend to do, run them both at the same time. It's cheap enough, and easy to get to. If it fails, then next time I'll install a better filter, and maybe even a better pump. ( I already have a 2 micron Racor after the original stanadyne and just before the IP, and I don't want to over filter the thing. ) You might even get a bit more HP out of an added lift pump.

[Mr. Bone]

Hello,

What's wrong with the mechanical fuel pump? . . .easy to change out and they only cost $12. RE: spin on filter - FM100 from Reliable Industries in New Orleans. . .i got the filter head and 5mic. filter for $27 (replaced my model 80) and added a 20 micron cannister type primary in line toward the back near the tank.

ALL THE BEST.

[bbbear]

Hello,

What's wrong with the mechanical fuel pump? . . .easy to change out and they only cost $12. RE: spin on filter - FM100 from Reliable Industries in New Orleans. . .i got the filter head and 5mic. filter for $27 (replaced my model 80) and added a 20 micron cannister type primary in line toward the back near the tank.

ALL THE BEST.

True, and thank you for the info! I like the electric pump primarily because I'm lazy and like the bleeding advantages. Besides, I've already commited and bought the electric pump. ;) Yet I can understand if you think my notions are a bit nutty. :D

[DmaxMaverick]

True, and thank you for the info! I like the electric pump primarily because I'm lazy and like the bleeding advantages. Besides, I've already commited and bought the electric pump. ;) Yet I can understand if you think my notions are a bit nutty. :D


Do both. Replace the mechanical, and install the electric. Let the mechanical handle running, and use the electric for priming, bleeding, and troubleshooting. The mechanical will allow through flow. Why not have the best of both worlds? It's cheap, and easy of you are already set on installing an electric. You can also omit the electric fail-safe install, as long as the mechanical is the only pump while under normal running conditions.

[bbbear]

Do both. Replace the mechanical, and install the electric. Let the mechanical handle running, and use the electric for priming, bleeding, and troubleshooting. The mechanical will allow through flow. Why not have the best of both worlds? It's cheap, and easy of you are already set on installing an electric. You can also omit the electric fail-safe install, as long as the mechanical is the only pump while under normal running conditions.

I might just do that. Simply run a switch to the dash, and flip it on only for start up, bleeding and emergencies. That's also what Lee Swanger did to his 1982, as per his article, "Electric Lift Pump and Racor Filter for the Early Diesels" which I took from the manual, "The Diesel Page, 6.2 Diesel Engine, Improving Performance & Economy. Published by TheDieselPage, etc... Thanks for another head's up option..

[Mr. Bone]

Wow! I like the idea of installing an electric pump for troubleshooting. Thanks for the input!:)

[bbbear]

Wow! I like the idea of installing an electric pump for troubleshooting. Thanks for the input!:)

You're welcome! :D but I merely passed it on. Thank Lee Swanger, who laid it all out in his article.;)

[avgjoes]

[QUOTE=Mr. Bone]Hello,

What's wrong with the mechanical fuel pump? . . .easy to change out and they only cost $12.

It may well be my style, I have the banks system on my suburban and I struggled for well over 6 hours benfore I was able to get the pump in. that was lying on the ground in the cold. the crossover pipe was in the way. yes I did try to move it. Now I am having the symptoms of the oneway valve going bad. so i could be changing it again or install electrical. I do appreciate all the help and suggestions.

Mark

[bbbear]

you can use the electric pump from a truck that had a 6.5L in it, you will have to mess with the fuel lines though. to block off the hole when you remove the mech. pump you just need a block off plate for a sbc.
dont forget to remove the rod that drives the pump.

you should get many years out of a replacement pump, and the mech. ones are only around $20. The electric pumps are around $120.

and of course if you go with an electric pump, wire it up to an ignition hot. and use an in-line fuse.

Couldn't the mechanical pump block the hole? Simply leave it in place with the fuel outlets of the pump looped and connected? Also the electric pump Lee Swanger installed in his 1982 6.2 now cost $49.00 at Autozone, part# E 1101 S.

[cucveg]

I'm about to do a veggie conversion on a 1983 GMC with a 6.2. I bought the Facet Pro 87SV electric pump at Schucks intending to install it forward of the veggie tank to help push the veggie along. However, I was planning to run the pump continuosly in conjunction with the mechanical LP. From what I've read here, you're saying that's a mistake? Thanks in advance.

[bbbear]

I'm about to do a veggie conversion on a 1983 GMC with a 6.2. I bought the Facet Pro 87SV electric pump at Schucks intending to install it forward of the veggie tank to help push the veggie along. However, I was planning to run the pump continuosly in conjunction with the mechanical LP. From what I've read here, you're saying that's a mistake? Thanks in advance.

If it's a flow-through electric pump, as is the Autozone E1101, $49.95. if the electric flow though fails, the mechanical pump will keep the engine running. When a none flow-though electric pump fails, it will efectively block the mechanical pump anyway. However, if the diaphram in the mechanical pump fails, the electric pump, flow-through or not will, via the torn diaphran, flood the crankcase with diesel, or in your case, veggie oil, which will destroy the engine. For that reason alone, I intend to disable the mechanical pump. I'll simply loop the mchanical pump fuel lines, i.e. join the in to the out, and merely by- pass it. That is, unless someone here can tell me why that isn't a good idea.

I have a veggie installation on my MB with an added electric pump, but the MB IP pump doesn't have a diaphram and doesn't present that danger. So I have both pumps workiing... I suspect the push pull set up also adds a bit of additional HP. Because the inline IP on the MB is so overbuilt, it can even take unheated Veggie oil.... Yet I still have a very effective electric fuel heater right before the fuel enters the IP.

You probably know that on the GMC the oil prior to the IP needs to be heated in order to make the viscosity closer to diesel. Because of the distributor type IP on the GMC it's an absolute must to pre heat the Veggie oil just before it enters the IP... Else the thick veggie oil will overwork the GMC IP and kill it. I not only intend to preheat the GMC oil, but will also burn at least a blend of 10% diesel to 90% VO... and that's during the summer. During the winter, I'll blend it 50/50.