My CUCV Horror Story...

[Rally Rebel]

As mentioned in my "Road Tools" thread we flew up to Kansas City this past Thursday evening to pick up an eBay M1028 from a reputable CUCV seller. Here's the original eBay auction of the truck for the curious: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=014&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=330091117207&rd=1,1

We arrived and the seller met us at the motel with the truck already unloaded from the trailer, and after small talk went over the truck and such. I found the seller to seem a nice, honest guy but started to get a little concerned when he mentioned he neglected to put new wiper blades on or get a spare and jack for the truck. Especially since this is now a month after auction end and plans were made well in advance for the pick-up. So after bidding farewell to the seller and dropping our gear in the motel, we take the truck to the local Wal-Mart to get wiper blades and other necessary items for a CUCV road-trip. Our goal was to make Atlanta the following evening after an early morning start, a trip of about 800 miles.

Well, we made it about 130 miles before things starting going awry. We lost the alternator belt on I-70 just east of Columbia and stopped at the first exit to assess any damage. The belt was running in the wrong set of grooves and we had hoped to make an auto parts place to get the proper size belt, but we fell short. At the truck stop I tanked up and we got the remains of the belt removed from where it had wrapped around the fan shaft, and duct-taped a weeping gash on the upper radiator hose. Then it got interesting. Since it was a clear day we decided to press on to the next major off ramp where a suitable belt could be sourced, and when starting the truck it failed to start. After three good tries on the starter I decided to start troubleshooting rather than drain the single battery (truck converted from 24V to 12V) in vain. I had my handy copy of this site's "6.2 Troubleshooting Guide" and went through purging the filter, verifying fuel flow, cracking the injector lines, checking the shut off solenoid... everything I could think of including some WD40 for starter fluid.

Eventually the battery gave out and I called in AAA for a tow to the nearest big-box auto parts place, which found us next at the Warrenton AutoZone. There I added a second battery and wiring, a new belt for the alternator and an upper radiator hose. I had a few calls with the seller who explained why a few wires were not connected here and there (HPCA) and offered the suggestion to try starting with the throttle at various positions. After getting the new parts installed, with the exception of a full set of new AC60G glow plugs they just happened to have, I gave the key a turn and it almost caught. After trying again with some pedal it started right up and we were soon on the road again.

Things seemed to be going smoothly as we headed toward St. Louis in a steady rain, now at night after the delays. As we headed for the 55 exit to Memphis off I-270 things again turned sour: The truck started losing power until the engine simply quit. We coasted to a stop next to the guard rail on the busy off ramp. Dodging cars we again purged the filter and cracked injector lines, all with no success. Beginning to suspect my "low mileage" truck might be otherwise and at least the IP was I added clean new motor oil to the fuel to see if that would help the IP build pop pressure. Still no joy.

So, another call to AAA and we were deposited at a nearby hotel for a good nights rest after a stressful day that found us a total of 230 miles into our 1500 journey home.

After lying awake for some time the next morning I began to suspect an electrical issue with the IP shut-off solenoid. The truck had exhibited some minor electrical gremlins, so perhaps the power to the solenoid was intermittent of pulsing during start. So I fashioned a jumper direct off the battery to ensure it would stay energized. This failed to produce a start. Again the fuel filter was purged and the injector lines cracked, still no start.

Unfortunately I do have to work and I absolutely have to be back in the office Monday morning. I couldn't get Internet access to tap this wonderful community for helpful knowledge, and my fatigue had taken its toll as well. So I decided to place the truck in a local storage facility and choke on return airfare for the next morning back to Florida. A third call to AAA and another wrecker ride got all that squared away for $50 a month until I make my next move.

When it runs I really, REALLY like this truck. It's straight, very clean and rust-free, runs down the interstate at 70MPH just great. When it runs. Of course the deadline of getting it home and not having the normal tools and resources while on the road throw all the problems experienced into the harshest of light. In hindsight I should probably have just paid to ship it to Florida, I certainly would have a lot more $$$ left in the bank than I do now. But I love the bonding that comes with a vehicle driving cross country after such a purchase. It may seems weird, but I tend to really grok my rides. :D

So, I'm currently looking at finding a good haul for it from St. Louis back to Florida where I can address what I believe is a fuel delivery problem. I'll present all the info, details and unexpected costs of the trip to the seller in the hopes he'll feel like offsetting the experience somewhat. I won't expect anything, but I'll hope there are still honest people out there that feel compelled to take just a little responsibility.

If there are any thoughts or suggestions out there I'd love to here them. Currently I'm waiting in a Borders trying to while away the time until our 6:55AM return trip home, before heading back to the airport to nap until morning.

I gotta quit buying old stuff... :rolleyes:

[RoverIIa]

I've had a few cross-country purchase experiences like this one.

My favorite... a truck that seems to drive well on the surface streets almost dumped me off of a gentle corner on the freeway (less than 75 mph). It just decided not to turn very well any-more.

Upon opening the hood, I found that the frame had cracked at the steering box, and the PO had wrapped the box to the frame with a chain. Not a good, solid, log-chain or other lifting chain, but an actual back-yard dog chain, complete with the snap-link to hold it in place!

That was before the days of digital cameras, but I sure wish I had a picture of it now. The remainder of my 500 mile drive was done in a manner that gives a new meaning to caution.

Moral of the Story...

Don't ever go buy a new "old" rig, even from across town, without a reliable tow vehicle and trailer.

I hope it gets home, and you have a good time with it.

[Johnny Bravo]

I fell you pain. I got one on ebay too, said new rockers were put in, no, said hed send new rockers, no, o well dont need them anyways I guess. Ran it around for a couple months and once I hit 11,000 miles the engine defines FUBAR, crank broke in half and took out the bottom end. Put in a new engine, cant get the oil lines to stop leaking, threw a u joint, trans goes out, new trans not working, and Im afraid the list will go on and on. I already put $2000 into it since I changed the engine, I dont know why I keep trying to fix it.

If you think your having trouble with the fuel , it could be that the filter is filled with water and junk.

[john8662]

Were you getting fuel out of the drain petcock on the fuel filter housing during your priming experiences?

If so, that means that your lift pump is working, which is something that's suspect in a fuel starvation issue.

The fuel filter has been replaced right?

I had a fun trip with a '91 Blazer coming back from NY to TX, didn't make it though...

We'll help ya prepare for the trip to return to pick up your new truck though!

J

[Rally Rebel]

Thanks all! I got fuel from anywhere I needed to when bleeding the filter and injectors, so the pump does work. Unfortunately I couldn't find any compatible filters along I-70. In hindsight I should have got a few a locally and taken them with me. As for going back to get it, I'm looking to have it brought here. The time and expense are about the same as a haul, and I can do MUCH better work at my shop where I'll have all my diesel tools handy and a number of great parts places just a few minutes drive in any direction.

So if anyone know someone running empty from St. Louis to Florida in search of a load... :D

[Robyn]

Rally
I can definately feel your pain.
I have purchased rigs off of ebay.
Our current 94 Burb was an ebay buggy.
Met the seller at the airport and handed him the $$ and he handed us the keys.
Headed home and had zero issues.

The next rig I bought was also an ebay buggy and was in San Diego Cal
We flew into socal and took a taxi to the fellows shop.

He brings the rig around front and we are sitting there looking it over all the while this fellow is telling us it will take us anywhere we want to go.

Then things went downhill, the rig starts blowing copious quantities of white smoke out the tail pipe and within a very short time span is puking antifreeze all over the ground from the overflow hose.

A quick look at the temp gauge shows it to be off the scale.

Hmm I give the seller a cross look and stuck out my hand and asked sharply for my deposit check back.
He slowly pulls it from his wallet and hands it to me, then quickly runs into his shop and locks the door.

We are over 1000 miles from home standing in the middle of the street looking at a rig thats dripping antifreeze needing a Taxi back to the airport.

Things get interesting from here.
Within half an hour we are back at the airport trying to get tickets for a flight back home.

A large chunk of $$ later and after trying several airlines we have secured tickets for a flight home.

The flight does not leave for 4 hours, HMMM sit around and cool our heels.

We then decide to go through security and things really got interesting.

The moment we were through the line we were met by two security folks that asked us matter of factly to follow them to a small room.

We got the third degree and a buttload of questions and swept with every sort of electronic device imaginable.

Everything but an anal probe.

Seems that because we bought one way tickets, had little baggage and a few other things we were suspect of being terrorists and the target of a security check.

Well we were worried about what to do for 4 hours, well the security check lasted over an hour and by that time I was fully fed up with the whole thing.

The flight home was ok though and gave me plenty of time to reflect on the days events.

Ebay is a wonderful place to buy stuff but as is the case with any used car seller, some are very honest and some not.

I believe the fellow sold the rig in good faith, but fate just stepped in and a head gasket blew while we were standing there.
Had this happened 30 minutes later we would have been on the freeway heading home.

Hmmm maybe things were not all that bad after all.

Moral of these stories, S**T happens.

I would buy another ebayer in a heartbeat. Its just the luck of the draw.

Hope your situation gets better and all comes out OK.

Best to ya

Robyn

[gvig]

Gotta add my .02 here. I just bought my 96 on eBay. Truck was located in Cody, Wyoming and I am located in central Oklahoma.

A bus ticket to Cody and 33 hours of sore butt time and I arrived. The seller drove up in a beautiful one ton dually. I looked it over, sorta, and we exchanged a cashiers check for a bill of sale and the keys. I hooked up my laptop and gps software, tossed the sensor on the dash and off I went.

That was Monday afternoon, arrived home Wednesday at noon, very uneventful trip, truck runs great. Love the beast.

Now that I am home I have started looking at things I never would have thought of, like.... vin identifies it as a 2WD, truck is a 4x4. I am owner #4 of said truck. I located owner #2 and in the ensuing conversation discover that the truck was a 2WD when he sold it to owner #3. So I call seller (owner #3) and inquire, he resolutely claims the truck has always been a 4x4. Crawl under truck and every body mounting bolt shows wrench marks.

I check and the vin tag has been removed from the chassis. So I have a truck I love but I don't know the vintage of the frame and drive components. The title doesn't show salvage or anything to indicate the frame vin won't match the cab vin.

Some you win, some you lose, and some you just don't know.

I still love the truck.

[wallew]

RR,
Bought my M1009 last November. From a guy in Georgia. Nice guy, the pix looked great. I even purchased an M101 trailer so I could haul back my spare engine in a can that a buddy of mine picked up for me.

Three plus months passed and I was FINALLY able to get his brother to deliver them for me. I thought he was going to drive them out, with a stop to pick up my engine.

He arrived two and a half days later with my truck and trailer attached to his rig by the proper military tow bar (provided by his brother).

I've finally done a complete inspection and I've VERY PLEASED. ONE small rust spot, passenger side on the floor in board of the rocker. The rocker is solid metal, thanks to the military motor pool that glued the comm cable into the rocker itself, giving rust NO PLACE to start.

Other than a minor fubar regarding paperwork (seller signed it in the wrong place - he's getting a replacement title as I type this), everything was AS presented.

There are probably some electrical issues, as there appear to be several 'patch wires' put in place for whatever reason.

HAVING SAID ALL THAT, mine has an additional 12V fuel pump inline. When I inquired as to why, the seller told me this was the standard army 'fix' for low fuel pressure. Apparently you can have a good fuel pump that's just NOT QUITE delivering the proper amount of fuel pressure. I'm not saying that's what's wrong with yours, but you've tried almost everything else.

Also, go over to http://www.steelsoldiers.com and ask this same question. There might be someone in or near the town you left your truck at who can help you get it running properly.

DO NOT mention me. I'm a pariah there. After they criticized my possible health problems, I went off on them. And got banned. But there are some good people there who might be willing to help.

[AJMBLAZER]

I was going to recommend Steel Soldiers as well. There's a forum on there for people needing stuff moved across the country. I know there's a decent amount of military stuff in that region of the country so you might ask there, someone might be coming your way or at least getting it closer.
Also some pretty good tech on the trucks.

There's also some pretty knowledgeable guys on the diesel forum of www.ColoradoK5.com . However most of them post here and on SS too.:p


Wow, glad my drive from Wisconsin to Michigan was uneventful. I've had issues with the quality of the truck and some things the seller misrepresented but it got me home no problem. Sorry to hear of your troubles.

[Rally Rebel]

I've been buying and selling vehicles on eBay for a number of years and all the transactions have gone so smooth, including one where I purchased a '70 International Transtar (Detroit 8V71) that had sat in a pasture for near thirty years and drove it back from central Kansas. All I had to do was put 10 new tires on it, new windshields and seals along with 80 gallons of diesel and it bounced down the road just fine all the way to Florida. Not to mention I had never driven a semi before, and this vintage had no front brakes or power steering. ;)

I guess it was about time one of my regular fly-n-drive trips went sour. The more I think about it the more I'm leaning toward a fuel filter issue. Once home I'm definitely going to swap the factory filter assembly for a Racor spin-on that's commonly available and gut the wiring in favor of a Painless Wiring kit specific to the chassis. Oh, and add proper gauges! :D

I've currently got "haul wanted" posts on my Caterpillar site and Yesterday's Tractor, so thanks for the Steel Soldiers info as I'll post there as well. Best offer I've gotten so far is about $1 mile, but I'll wait for someone deadheading this way or looking to fill out a load. If I can get it as far as Atlanta then I'll be golden, as a master-mechanic friend has a place there that it can be stored.

[britannic]

I bought my CUCV on eBay as well. It was in good shape overall, but wouldn't do more than 25mph on hills (fortunately, this inspired me to create the "Britannic Special" after discovering this website).

One caution about CUCV's, is that when the GSA disposes of them, they decommission the vehicle by removing random bolts, components etc, some obvious and others not so. I've been over my CUCV many times and yet I still find stuff that is either loose or missing from the chassis - so be sure to check yours over.

[Rally Rebel]

Now that I'm getting over the "trauma" and frustration of the trip a little, my addled little mind is beginning to think on a recovery expedition. I've posted on a few forums looking for hauls but the going rate is around $1.25 a loaded mile with most quotes at around $1200 to my door. Here's what I'm thinking: I can get a round-trip air ticket for about $150, UPS the tools and parts I may need to the storage place for about $15 (high side), a local motel for $100 (2 nights) and 2 all day bus/metro fares for $9 to get around. If changing the filter and bleeding the lines gets me back on the road then I'm 16 hours from home, and this time would have the proper tools and additional parts (like an electric lift pump and Racor spin-on) to address any fuel issues or whatever else comes up.
Not to mention detailed listings of all auto-parts and service places along the route exit by exit. Heck, I could even take another IP for that matter. And if I get nothin' but grief then I've got the return ticket to come home with my tail 'tween my legs.

Just having a hard time stomaching $1200 to haul the truck home. Ugh!

[DmaxMaverick]

If time allows, you could drive a tow vehicle up, rent a U-Haul car hauler and tow it back. That way, no worries about the roadworthiness of the CUCV, a bunch of $$ saved, and be done with it.

I made a similar trip in January. ~1400 miles on a 3 day weekend. I did all the driving. It would have been a much better trip if it wasn't smack in the middle of a historic cold snap, but I'd do it again.

[Rally Rebel]

Yeah, that's what I'm starting to think too. The CUCV already has the front shackle mounts which double as a tow point with a two bar, so I wouldn't need to haul a trailer or rent a dolly thus lightening my total tow weight. Some inexpensive trailer lights bolted to the rear shackle mounts and I'm good to go! No to mention I could still bring along tools and parts just to see if something simple and maybe drive back anyway if someone comes along anyway and I'd still have a backup.

This is starting to make me feel a WHOLE BUNCH better! :D

[DmaxMaverick]

I think you'd be better off to completely abandon the idea of driving it back. You've already seen the result of an attempt when things were supposed to be good. Towing would eliminate that uncertainty.

The dolly would work, but there won't be any significant fuel savings vs. trailering. I've dolly towed many times, avoid it if I can. Lived and learned. It may be less expensive to rent a car hauler locally (for a round trip), considering the time involved. One way rentals are steap. Better yet, borrow a trailer, or buy one just for the trip, and sell it when done (or keep it). Used trailers don't depreciate over a couple week's time.

[Rally Rebel]

I've got a 16' car hauler trailer, but a buddy who's a military vehicle collector may have the correct CUCV tow bar which would save the extra 1200 lbs. the trailer weighs.

For that matter I've got a 42' Freuhauf flatbed to go with my Transtar, but that's a bit overkill! ;)

[DmaxMaverick]

The "real" CUCV tow bar will be a pintle hitch. A real pleasure to tow "4 down" that far (NOT). The extra 1200# won't lose much, if any, compared to 4 down. Still, you have to consider other drivetrain issues the CUCV may have. Wheel/diff bearings (typically the most neglected service) do the same job, regardless.

If it sounds like I'm trying to talk you out of it, that's about right. Been there....Done that. Towing with anything other than a full car hauler still leaves you depending on this vehicle, that's already failed, repeatedely. How many more trips do you want to take?

[sidehackbob]

Step up, buy a trailer with brakes, wire your rig, tow it home.
Try to figure out how you ever lived without a trailer.

[RoverIIa]

I paid almost the same amount for my car trailer that I was facing for a cross-country one-way rental. They become really easy to justify.

A side benefit... you never knew how many friends you have until you own a car trailer. Anytime you need help with something, pick up the phone:

You:
"Remember that time I let you use my trailer..."

Friend:
"I'm on my way over..."

I would also say do not try to drive the truck home. And... many of these trucks are TOO WIDE to fit on a dolly. It all depends on the wheel/tire combination that you have.

Good luck.

[IUPAC]

I've hauled a fullsize chevy on a 16' trailer, it fit, but I wouldn't go very far with it. I had an 18' + 4' gooseneck (#12,000) built last spring for $4600 including tax. I used it this past January for an 1800 mi round trip to pick up a donor truck. 192 gal. of gas (9.1 mpg avg), $100 night in a hotel (wife rode along, also stayed free for a night with friends) and a $200 service call (blow-out on new trailer tire-don't ask). I too, thought about driving the truck home, I'm glad I didn't. Funny thing about a gooseneck, nobody ever asks to borrow it!

[Rally Rebel]

Fortunately I received an excellent offer on hauling it from where it sits in St. Louis to a friend's place near Atlanta. I've sent a couple fuel filters up to him and after the truck arrives Thursday he'll wrench on it a bit for me, hopefully with good results. If all goes well then I can fly up at the end of the month and drive it home, with my Dad and car trailer for a "recovery back-up" if I don't quite make it all the way. :D

[Rally Rebel]

Well, after a new filter and glowplugs along with much phone consultation and tinkering my friend was unable to get the beast to start. So my lovely, patient wife of infinite understanding is traveling up with me this weekend to bring the big truck home on our 16' trailer. Plus we'll get to visit and socialize with friends, and I've got an OM617 turbo engine to pick up on the way back in Warner Robbins. :D Thinking about putting a little more kick in her '78 300D!

Once I get it home we'll drop the fuel tank for steaming and POR15 treatment, then a good fuel line flush and inspection followed by conversion to a Racor spin-on filter. I've already started getting the bits together for a completely new civilian 12V glow harness too. The truck is just too straight and clean to not figure out this pesky little fuel issue. ;)

[Rally Rebel]

We went to get the truck this past weekend from my friend's place up in Atlanta and had a beautiful day for our Sunday drive back to Florida with the M1028 in tow on the 16' car trailer. About 60 miles south of Atlanta while cruising at a leisurely 60MPH in the right-hand lane, a big rig whipped by and the trailer started oscillating. I was unable to dampen the motion and it increased rapidly until I lost control and began to spin, ending with both truck and loaded trailer sliding down three traffic lanes sideways. As we slowed to almost a stop I was watching the grill of the CUCV in the mirror when suddenly the left-front axle broke on the trailer, causing it to flip. Fortunately it popped off the ball and didn't take our tow vehicle with it, but the CUCV obviously bit the big one. At least every strap and chain held, and once righted it remained right on the trailer in the exact position it started the trip in.

http://www.planetarydomination.com/m1028/crunch.jpg

Fortunately no one was hurt and no other vehicles damaged. The responding law enforcement and safety personnel were outstanding and performed their jobs with prefessionalism and a great deal of compassion, which was much appreciated considering the journey this truck has taken me on.

I'm fully convinced it's completely cursed, and will be awaiting word from my insurance company to determine its final fate and any future involvement with it.

Either way, I'm temporarily out of the 6.2L game for a bit. :(

[AJMBLAZER]

:eek: :eek: :eek:

dude...whoa...

Definitely try and salvage the truck. The front axle alone can get you at least a grand thanks to it's beef and already low gearing. The rear has low gears and a locker so it's got $600 in beef parts already. You could sell those on eBay or www.ColoradoK5.com fairly easily. Then there's the rest of the drivetrain...

I have to ask...anyone find the trucker responsible? Seems like he'd have had to have been VEWY, VEWY close to cause that.

[BARRAZA]

WOW
Glad you didn't get hurt!!!
As I read the above posts, I was thinking I hope you are careful, then the picture - damn.

I towed my CUCV home on a similar trailer and it was a handful, hard to get enough tongue weight with a relatively short trailer. Luckily I was only going about 150 miles on secondary roads so I kept it at 35- 45mph. It was probable that you were overloaded, that CUCV weighs a little over 6000 lbs empty. Plus it has a very high CG up on the trailer.

If you are interested in another one, send me a PM. Mine runs great but I never got the paperwork necessary to register, combine the two and you would still have a good truck.

[wes-in-nc]

Oh man:eek: Thank God you are ok. I can't belive all the trouble the truck has caused you and now it ends like this. I don't even know what to say.....

[gophergunner]

thats a cursed vehicle for sure..........:eek:

dana 60 front??? i would like to get my hands on one of them axles:rolleyes:

[Rally Rebel]

Thanks all, it certainly could've turned out worse. This M1028 has the Trac-loc Dana 60 front and was one of the cleanest, straightest CUCV's I had seen. :(

Haven't heard back from the claims agent yet, but I'll keep y'all posted.

[wes-in-nc]

I had to reread the post. I have never heard of an axle breaking on a trailer before. What were you towing with?

[Rally Rebel]

I was using my Dad's '94 F-150 with the HD tow package (7500 lbs). Here's a link to a pic of some other motorists helping to break the safety chains which were lifting the rear of the Ford: http://www.planetarydomination.com/m1028/P4220052.JPG

[wes-in-nc]

Again, I'm glad all are ok. I don't know what you had in mind for the truck before all of this but I'm thinking if the insurance comes through why not a a/c cab swap?

[DmaxMaverick]

Good to hear no one was injured. A horrific end to your horror story, for sure.

I've been involved in many T/A investigations, and quite a few included trailers of some sort.

I know hindsight is 20/20, but you need to make sure this doesn't happen again. I don't think you are going to toss out the trailer or the truck, so the same situation may present itself to you or someone else later. There are some things that come to mind, although the info I have regarding this is limited only to what you've posted here.

The trailer coupler should not have uncoupled under those conditions, so something was not right. Many, if not most, car hauler trailers rated at ~7K have a 2-5/16" coupler. What was the ball size on the truck? What was the ball size of the coupler? Did the coupler lock stay locked? Did the ball shear off? Most hitch balls purchased at parts stores, Walmart, etc, are not rated high enough for car hauling. Many are rated at 3,500# for a 2" ball, and 5-6,000# for a 2-5/16" ball. Was the ball worn out? You need to find out why the coupler uncoupled. If it had for any reason before it went sideways, the whipping you experienced would have resulted. A 2-5/16" coupler with a 2" ball may seem secure when you hitch it up, but will come loose. I'm curious about this. The coupler should not have given up the ball w/o breaking something. If it just came out, it was either the wrong size, or the coupler was not adjusted properly, if it was adjustable. I think the cause/effect end of this needs to be understood. If the coupler came loose before the wild ride, it was probably the cause. The light tongue load combined with the passing truck could have started the process. If it were just whipping due to the light tongue, the coupler should have stayed coupled until it flipped, and after, unless the coupler, ball, hitch (truck) or tongue breaks or the hitch and/or tongue twists to allow the trailer to overturn.

Inquiring minds want to know.......

[Rally Rebel]

I like the idea of using an A/C cab and have already sized up a few to get an idea of the cost, fortunately all being rather low.

The trailer will likely be recovered along with the truck if the insurance works out, which it should since it's State Farm. I doubt I'll put the trailer back on the road though since it's a bit twisted so will spend its remaining days as a utility trailer on the farm. I've been itching to fab a good HD aluminum trailer since getting a new Millermatic 251 and spoolgun, so here's my chance. :)

The towing setup was a 2" ball purchased recently from Tractor Supply with a high rating and the trailer coupler was 2" as well. It stayed coupled until the trailer went over from the axle failure, and the coupler is now fairly twisted and that's probably what caused it to fail as the lock and locking pin were still in the locked position. I prefer the slide-type couplers but this trailer came to us about 11 years ago as part of a tractor trade and we've more than gotten our investment out of it, transporting various cars, trucks and tractors all over the Southeast for me. The heaviest thing I've ever hauled on it is my 1934 Caterpillar 22 which is around 6000 lbs. You can see the twisted (but still locked) coupler in this pic: http://www.planetarydomination.com/m1028/P4220075.JPG

As for tongue loading, we worked to get that set properly as well before final strapping. It certainly wasn't light on the tongue, but not so heavy as to compromise or even noticeably affect steering. I've done a lot of towing and am super anal about preparing everything as best I can.

The biggest issue in my mind was that this trailer had no brakes, and that right there would have saved the whole show. I had tried to get my Dad to let me put brakes on at least one axle several times, but he kept putting me off. Again, 20/20 hindsight. :rolleyes:

The new trailer, when built, will DEFINITELY have brakes! And a winch, beavertail, no side rails, removable fenders, LED lighting, etc. etc. etc.... ;)

[DmaxMaverick]

Yep. I'm real anal about this stuff, too.

Brakes would have likely saved the day. In CA, and most other states, it isn't legal to pull a trailer rated above 2K-3.5K (depending on the state) w/o brakes on at least one axle, and both axles above 5K-7K (depending on the state). The 2" ball/coupler may have been underrated for the towing you were doing, too. Your insurance company may have issues with these, if they catch them.

Be sure to get a copy of the accident investigation report. You need to see everything your insurance company sees.

[Mark Rinker]

Glad your tow vehicle wasn't damaged in the accident. Sorry to hear of your streak of bad luck with this purchase.

What is/was the load rating of the axles on your trailer? It appears to me from the picture that there was no way to position the truck far enough forward of the axles to avoid the 'whipping' you experienced.

I have hauled 8K trucks on 12K trailers designed for skidsteers and regretted it. Even with good brakes and 2 5/16 hitch hardware, the axles were positioned too far forward for a safe ride.

It is my opinion that the trailer you selected was grossly undersized for the task and could only have safely hauled a small sedan with a 4 cylinder. Even then it would need brakes.

Glad you are okay and no injuries occured. Your wife is a saint.

[Rally Rebel]

Well, I got my towbar fabbed up Thursday after work and then drove up to Stockbridge, GA after work Friday to get the wayward CUCV. After a good nights rest went over to the body shop and hooked everything up for the long tow home, which ended up taking a little over 12 hours to cover about 450 miles at an average of 40MPH. The towbar worked out very well and would be great for a tow vehicle that weighed more than the load. In my case the CUCV would "push" the F150 around a bit which is why I kept the road speed low. Patience pays! Now the search is on for a new front clip (preferably with factory AC and power windows!) so I can put the beast back on the road as my daily driver.

Here's some pics for those interested...

Towbar hooked on the rear to pull CUCV from its parking spot:
http://www.planetarydomination.com/M1028/05262007120.jpg

As found at body shop:
http://www.planetarydomination.com/M1028/05262007121.jpg

Had to strap the steering wheel to pull backwards into a 180 for hooking to the front:
http://www.planetarydomination.com/M1028/05262007122.jpg

Closeup of shackle modded into "towbar adapter" by welding in spherical from Deutz tractor link:
http://www.planetarydomination.com/M1028/05262007123.jpg

Towbar strapped up to hitch solo:
http://www.planetarydomination.com/M1028/05262007124.jpg

All hitched and ready to get going:
http://www.planetarydomination.com/M1028/05262007125.jpg

Driveshaft disconnected and strapped up to crossmember:
http://www.planetarydomination.com/M1028/05262007126.jpg

On the road again, can't seem to stay off the road again... :P
http://www.planetarydomination.com/M1028/05262007127.jpg

Oh, insurance totalled it out in my favor and I bought it back "salvage" for $300. So I'll have to come up with a new title as well, but that's minor to getting the rest straight! =)

[AJMBLAZER]

Still a hell of a shame but man, that's a deal that you got it back for that little.:cool:

[Rally Rebel]

True, but it's now an essentially paid-for project truck. Rather than spending $400 - $500 for an underdash AC and some other creature comforts for the cab, I can now get a cab with factory AC and power windows etc. for the same or less money. Actually have a line on a couple local parts trucks, so may get not only the cab but a title and the stuff to do the manual tranny swap as well as one is a later model 5-speed. Keeping my fingers crossed! Then the whole things gets a spray with Aervoe desert sand and I'll finally have the daily driver I wanted.

[AJMBLAZER]

If you haven't already, read around on www.ColoradoK5.com . A guy there named tRUSTyK5 did the NV4500 behind a 6.2L swap and has some good info. Wasn't exactly "bolt in" but can be done without major drama.:cool:

It's on my some-day-maybe-yeah-right list.

[mark g]

what a great read, i have sold no less than 50 cucv's on ebay also with lots of getting home story's. i get most of my trucks from gsa, local government or other auctions. some things i have noticed about these trucks in general.

if the truck is an 84 -85 and has not had the injector pump changed, the flex ring inside the pump will come apart and stop up the return fitting with plastic parts of the pump. pull the fitting out of the truck, gut the fitting or clean it, you may need to knock out the check ball. your truck will start!!! i had this happen today when i went to deliver this truck
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=008&sspagename=STRK%3AMESO%3AIT&viewitem=&item=180122570796&rd=1&rd=1

if the transmission wont shift or makes hard forced shifts check for vacumn and then check the shift modulator on the side of the IP.

leave your truck 24v, it starts much better when cold, you can switch the glow plug solinoid to 12v if you want, and use 12v glow plugs. if you get a good military glow plug card your very lucky. if not install a push button.

you can flat tow your truck without pulling the drive shaft if your t-case is full of fluid. check it. put the t-case in neutral and the trans in park.

i pull with a 1ton duramax, a 12k gross trailer and brakes on both axles. i can also flat tow another truck behind my trailer so i can get 2 at a time home.

i wish i could get the money he gets, i sold my 18k miles m1028 for 3050. the buyer bought another m1028 , the white one in the picture in front of my shop, at the same time. it had 21k miles on it. they are on their way home to wichita falls, tx. as i write this, i hope they make it. i promised him another IP if he didnt.

ill bet a donut thats whats wrong with your truck. thanks, mark

[Rally Rebel]

LOL, I almost bid on that M1028! Agreed it's likely the flex-ring on my IP, just wish I knew the check valve trick on the 1st leg of the trip, likely would have a much better ending. Can't complain too much, otherwise I wouldn't be getting a civvie cab with all the creature comforts and a 5-speed like I'm planning now. Just really wanted something to drive and wrench when I need to. Now I'll be transferring the plates to one of my diesel Mercedes in the interim. Gotta stay away from the gas pump! :D