It All Started When I put in New Batteries and a New Belt HELP!!!

[BIOBEV]

Here Is my story. I needed to replace my batteries so I did and along with the batteries a new belt (fan to alternator). Since then my gauge reads high amps. When I start the truck the guage reads fine, after 20 or 30 seconds it starts to fluctuate form 13 to about 15 then gets higher until it ends up in the red almost 17 just shy of the 18 mark. I asked for you guys help earlier about this and most thought it would be the voltage regulator. I was not confident in tearing apart the alternator so I figured I would just replace the alternator. I took it out and went to Checkers and had them put it on their machine to test it before I bought a new one and it tests fine. I went to auto supply and bought a Gates belt thinking the one I got from Autozone was crap. Well still same problem?* I am stumped. I know my glow plug controller acts up from time to time, I have to get out and give it a wiggle and it works fine for a while, could this be the problem? It works fine when it works. Oh! It is a 1988 6.2L 3/4T 2 wheel drive Suburban

[DmaxMaverick]

You still have the oportunity to replace that VR. It's just too easy not to. Really! I suspect the VR is your voltage problem, regardless of what that certified technician at Checkers said.

If you can R/R the alternator, you can certainly replace the VR. It's easy. Really. Better do it before you kill your new batteries!!!

[BIOBEV]

I was going to attempt it but I got out the Chilton's manual and it says you have to unsolder the the stator leads, whatever they are and to unsolder the terminal between the regulator and therectifier bridge, waaaaay to involved. If I just went ahead and got a new alternator wouldn't it come with a new voltage regultor already installed?
Bev

[BIOBEV]

Update.. Well I took it to Autozone and Carquest to have it checked and it checks good at all 3 places including the voltage regulator. Man this is driving me crazy. Could it be the new batteries?????????????
Bev

[JeepSJ]

My dad and I have a project El Camino and we had a similar alternator problem. It checked out several times OK by the store (Pep Boys). They have service bays and even checked it on the car and said it was OK. It was under warranty through them and they refused to replace it as long as it tested OK on their stand.

I finally had enough and pulled the thing apart and cut the wires off the brushes and put it back together and took it back and it failed the test. New alternator, no more problems.

Moral - just because "they" say it is OK does not mean that it is.

There should be no soldering/unsoldering to replace the regulator. I have replaced many regulators in both the SI and CS alternators.

[Robyn]

replace the Alt before you fry something.

Check the voltage at the battery terminals with a VOM just to be sure your dash gauge is not flakey.
If the VOm confirms the Voltage is too high toos the alternator on the heap.

[Jgreemo]

Def check the gauge. My fuel gauge started acting up, not reading when it hit the half tank level, volt meter started swinging periodically and oil temp likewise. Turned out the back of the printed circuit dash had come loose. I reached up behind there, it clicked in and everything snapped back to true.

Good luck!

[jf-schaack]

Hey all. God bless the searches because I'm confident I'm having the same problem with my alternator voltage regulator. I just bought a 1982 Chevy 3/4 ton w/ the 6.2L. The guy I bought it from said it has some type of electrical problems and that it has a current draw somewhere and it drains the batteries. When I was checking out the truck before buying I put my multimeter on the battery while running and I got 14.5 volts - good. Got the truck home and have been slowly tinkering. One battery is two months old, other is several years old. The other day I charged the new battery on trickle for three days to full charge. The truck started fine and cranked hard. I drove the truck for about 20 minutes then parked. Two hours later I came back out to leave again and when I tried to start the truck it didn't have enough juice to turn over. Tonight I put the charger on start mode but still didn't have enough umph to start so I had to connect the Duramax for a while. When I got the truck running I checked the charging voltage again and this time I only had 11.5 volts. I yanked the batteries and alternator and headed to O'Riely's. Both batteries tested ok when put under load but for some reason the old battery, even after it had been sitting outside the truck for an hour, was really warm to the touch, any particular reason? The alternator tested 'OK' per the stores test but I was still skeptical. The guys in the store said it could be the voltage regulator so to the forums I came.

Now for the questions:
1. I'm willing to give installing a new voltage regulator in the alternator a try but I need to know where I can get one? Does any auto parts store carry the part? Are they specific to the make and model of alternator?

2. From the previous instructions I understand how to crack open the alternator but can someone explain what other internal alternator 'problems' I should be looking for? FYI - I've never cracked an alternator open before.

3. Can anyone give me input as to if I may have a current leak somewhere else and if there is anything common I should check? I did put my multimeter in line with a battery cable to check amperage flow while the key was off. The meter showed a tiny amount of current flow (0.02 microamps) but nothing that should drain batteries. Any input as to why my batteries would have died after two hours the other night even thought they had been fully charged (one battery that is) earlier in the day? I don't have electrical schematics for this sweet old truck so I'm learning from looking and reading old posts.


Thanks everyone,
James

[DmaxMaverick]

Your problem may not be the VR, but the battery itself. They can short internally, and one that gets warm all by itself is a pretty good indicator. The short can be intermittent. The Diesel batteries are connected in parallel, and should always be replaced in pairs. If you have a couple years difference in the batteries, it's no surprise you have a problem. It doesn't take long for one a battery (even if the parts store says it's OK) to kill the good one. Replace the old battery with one of the same brand and rating before it's too late to save the newer one.

[ccatlett1984]

i would take the alternator to a local alt/starter shop that rebuilds them, they have much better test equipment and if its the regulator they will stock the part that you need.

[HH]

My alternator was acting up, voltage was jumping from 14 down to 12 and back. I pulled it and took it to a rebuild shop. The bench test indicated it was good. I told the tech to rebuild it anyway. When I picked it up, he said it had a bad voltage regulator.....Rebuilt for $60.00. I guess I got my money's worth, because the alt was OEM.

I would vote for the VR.

[jf-schaack]

Thanks guys. I plan to get a new battery to replace the old one so both the batteries will be new within a couple months. I've got the alternator off right now so I think I may just put a new one on for good measure, fairly minimal cost to ensure it is working appropriately.

Thanks again,
James

[jf-schaack]

Thanks for the info guys. I put in a new battery to replace the old un-functional one and everything seems to be working well. I've now got a pair of new 930 CCA batteries to push me through a cold Iowa winter. I left the old alternator on and it looks to be putting out adequate voltage, right at 14 volts measured by multimeter on the batteries.

Thanks again for the help, other questions to come!
James

[wade-ve7trw]

if you need wiring diagrams i have electrical wiring diagrams from 1982 to present for gm/chev. Will scan and send them to you. Wade

[jf-schaack]

Wade,
Wow, electrical diagrams would be fantastic to have. Please send to schaack3@yahoo.com


Thanks a bunch!
James

[Low_Bridge]

Ok I didn't read every point so forgive me but Is: The connections at you starter all jam up?

It's seems as that has been a ghost of mine in the past - loose connection-?

[jf-schaack]

Hey Low-Bride, thanks for the comment. I haven't checked the connections at the starter but feel they are probably ok because yesterday I went out to start the truck after it has sat for 2 weeks, after putting in a 2nd new battery, and it cranked over and started like a champ. Regardless, I'll still check my connections to ensure they are snug. Thanks for the post.

James