View Full Version : Need torque specs for ARP head studs
Are the torque specs different from the ARP head studs different from the TTY bolts? if so Anyone know what they are and the foot pounds for the different tightening steps?
Thanks in advance,
Erik
rjschoolcraft
08-24-2005, 18:09
Follow the procedure in the manual for tightening in steps with the values given. The final torque sequence should go to 80 lb-ft, rather than the additional quarter turn the manual says. You should be able to find this info on ARP's website.
From my ARP instructions...
Make sure you use thread sealer on all studs that go into a water jacket. Studs that go into a blind hole should be lubed with 30w oil. All studs should be installed finger tight.
Use the maufacturers torque sequence and steps, but do not use the manufacturers specs on the last step. Nuts should be torqued to 90ft/lbs if using ARP moly lube, or 130ft/lbs if using 30w oil.
rjschoolcraft
08-25-2005, 03:53
Hmmm... mine said 80 lb-ft.
5.7L oldsdiesel
08-25-2005, 06:43
I read from another GM-diesel website from a guy who installed ARP head studs in a G20 series 6.2 diesel.This guy is a mechanical engineer and he stated that the torque on the head studs should NOT exceed 107 ft/lbs.Exceeding that will pull the threads out of the cylinder block.He also recommended putting teflon tape on the threads of the stud before threading them into the cylinder block.
well- Using the ARP moly lube i went with 80lbs on one side....the other side i have to wait ARP shorted me 6 washers. I am useing Loctite high temp thread sealant on the wet holes on the engine block. Why does it always seem nothing goes as planed.
Thanks for your replies.
rjschoolcraft
08-25-2005, 08:21
Originally posted by 5.7L oldsdiesel:
I read from another GM-diesel website from a guy who installed ARP head studs in a G20 series 6.2 diesel.This guy is a mechanical engineer and he stated that the torque on the head studs should NOT exceed 107 ft/lbs.Exceeding that will pull the threads out of the cylinder block.He also recommended putting teflon tape on the threads of the stud before threading them into the cylinder block. The guy you're talking about is, in my mind, not too trust worthy.
ARP recommends 80 lb-ft when using their moly lube on the nut-end threads. The torque value is higher if you use SAE 30 motor oil, but I don't remember the value. I would recommend the ARP lube and 80 lb-ft.
Well I called ARP to get the washers they shorted me, the Service tech said the poper torque specs are 86 lbs with the moly lube. They recommend tightening them in squence then losening them then re-tighten again to 86 lbs. Hope this clears any confusion up. Again this is with the ARP moly lube, which is not supplied in the stud kits.
-If using engine oil for a lubricant they recommend 109 Lbs for the final torque. Following the same tightening and lossening tecnique as i stated above.
Cheers,
erik
All ARP fasteners should go through 2 or 3 torque cycles before the final installation. This will allow the fastener to take its final "set". This is all on the ARP site.
You never want to use teflon tape on the threads. Also, if you are using any type of thread-locker or hard-setting sealer, the fastener must be torqued prior to the locker or sealer drying.
RJ - how long ago did you purchase your studs? Mine are just over a year old. I wonder if they changed the torque spec?
rjschoolcraft
08-25-2005, 20:10
February or March.
Mine were torqued for torque plate hone prior to my final assembly.
eracers999
08-26-2005, 06:34
Jeep, do not follow your instructions, follow RJ's. Mine said the same thing as yours, someone at ARP has their head in their ass, you will destroy a threaded hole using that eronious torq spec.
Too late. Mine were installed last year when I was putting the engine together. I went through a couple torque cycles then did the final assembly. I had no problems with the 90ft/lb setting. Everything torqued fine with no feeling that any of the studs were pulling out of the block.
I just made a quick call to ARP. The tech I talked to saw that the change was made from 90 to 80, but was not sure why. He said the studs could handle 100 without being overstressed - the question is if the block can take that! He assured me that running them at 90 is fine. I figure the extra clamping force will let me run more boost. smile.gif
[ 08-26-2005, 02:07 PM: Message edited by: JeepSJ ]
eracers999
08-26-2005, 17:59
Jeep, 90 is cool, i must have misread. My sheet said 120ft lbs.
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