Steening wheel shakes while braking......

[sailun]

OK, it's pulled to the left forever, and now the steering wheel shakes while braking. In fact, I think it's shaking all the time, especially on the highway.

I replaced the sway bar-to-lower control arm links about a month ago, that seemed to damp things well, but it's all back, and probably time to do something.

What components should I be looking at, and what should I be looking for ?

I haven't done any front end work, before.

Also, last time I went for an alignment, the shop couldn't align correctly, because some cam-washer is welded in place from the factory. I found the replacement kit for this adjustment at NAPA, like $26.

"Moog Chassis Prod. Control Arm Cam Bolt Kit Part Number: K6302
"Control Arm Cam Bolt Kit: Front Suspension; Upper; Four Wheel Drive (4x4); Problem Solver Alignment Cam Bolt Kit; 2 Required"

I think I have to grind the factory part off. Anybody put one in ?

Any special tools, advice, knowledge, for a rookie ? I'm no great mechanic, but I can usually struggle through, slowly.

[HH]

I would start by checking your upper & lower ball joints. The shaking during braking is because your caster is changing between negative and positive. If it is shaking all the time you should also check your tires for a broken belt, not as common now with newer tire technology.

[murphyslaw]

don't forget to have your rotors checked they could be warped bad ans cause the shaking while driving as well as braking.

[Idle_Chatter]

And also check your wheel bearing/hub assembly. Jack up under the lower A-arm to get the tire off the ground. There should'nt be any play when pushing/pulling in/out on the top and bottom of the wheel and no grinding noise when slowly rotating.

[sailun]

Thanks for the good advice, guys. This will help me find whats bad. I know, probably all of it.

From the reading I've done, these ball joints sound like a pretty ornery job.

2 or 3 hours per side ?

Has anyone ever done the cam-washer camber adjustment fix ?

[diesel65]

The vehicle has the cam washers already installed, the chassis has to be punched out for the cam washers to work.
You need to pull both front and rear cam bolts then move the upper arm out of the way. You will see that one side of the bracket has a slot and the other side is just a round hole, That is if the chassis hasn't been already punched out.
This is why alignment shop tack on extra fee to perform this labor.
I have the punch to do this, but I have seen alignment shop will just burn the slots.

[sailun]

OK, Diesel65, I'm sure I'm not gettin it. I really know nuthin about front ends.

I was told by the shop that those cam plates were welded on at the factory, and they did not move when they hammered on said plates, after loosening bolts. I was standing right there, watching.

Are you saying that factory puts cutout marks for slots on the control arm brackets, but only puts bolt holes there ? (probably saving alignment time in manufacturing ?)

And, the cam washers can be removed, in order for us to punch/burn out the slots ?

And if so, why would a kit be necessary ?

Confused.

[sailun]

All right, back to it.

Would just sloppy tie rod ends cause this shake, or do sloppy tie rod ends result from the base problem ?

With truck jacked up, I can shake the tires side to side. Seems to be some play in the steering system

There's no shake top to bottom. (well, there was, but then I tightened the lug nuts). So I'm thinkin' bearings are OK.

[mstockton]

Check your steering box for possible wear too. My 82 Blazer was shaking pretty bad, and I replaced steering damper and that helped, but there is still some movement from within the box. I discovered this with both tires on the ground (so they can't move) Truck in neutral (to keep steering free; prevent park lock) and grabbed my steering shaft (column to box) and it rotates more than a couple of degrees. So when my truck is jacked up and I push the tires in and out, my steering linkage is moving as well. Just figured I'd throw this out because no one has mentioned it, but I'm sorry if it adds to your confusion.

-Martin

[Warren96]

I think I would have to vote on the rotors being warped.That is what mine did,when it would shake ONLY WHEN BRAKING. Just be shure when it is happening! Is it there when you are tooling along down the highway,or only when you are stopping? There are a lot of expensive front end parts that could be replaced with the ''Poke and hope'' method of repair.

[sailun]

Warren and Stockton, thanks for the input.

Rotors sounds like a strong possibility, cuz there's some pulsing going on when I break.

Here's a question: How do rotors 'warp' ? Or do they just wear unevenly, like washboard road ?

I'm bringin this doggie into my buddie's shop. A couple of his guys are pretty good, and they've sure done enough brake jobs on this baby.

[sailun]

New Pitman arm, new idler arm, adjusted some play out of the steering box, and turned the rotors. Rotors were def'ly warped. Arm joints were def'ly loose.

Steers almost like new, no more wiggle and shake.

Still pulls left while driving, but doesn't head for the curb as much while braking, and the steering wheel shake is gone.

Off to get alignment tomorrow.