Cold air-after market-input & query

[DickWells]

:) Yup, needed a new (clean) filter anyway, so I ordered up an S&B system for my LB7. Put it in right here in sunny Del Rio the other day.
Seems like the least that S&B could do is to provide more than 1.5" of rubber tubing to attach the big air tube to the air box! You have to put the clamps right out to the very edge of the tubing to stay off the crack between the two pieces. Another half inch would have been very welcome. Also, the two tiny screws that they send for the OE air flow sensor are way too small for the sensor flange holes. I used the OE screws. Other than those issues, it's an easy install. With my 67 year old, shooting damaged hearing, I can't tell any difference in sound level. Can't tell any difference in power either.
What do you guys think about cutting out some more of the vertical panel where the new air box gets some of it's air? You could use a 1.5" hole saw, and access more cool air from above the fender liner. Also, since the fender liner drops away from the horizontal surface that the air box sits on, why couldn't you get more cool air by cutting out some of the material through the bottom of the air box and that horiz. surface, with the same hole saw? Your thoughts?
Anybody have any ideas on doing a home-made thingy to duct some air from behind the bumper, up over the front of the liner and into the air box ala the Banks setup? They want, what, $150+ for that piece of plastic?
Dick Wells:)

[DickWells]

;) I'm just going to bump this one back up near the top, in hopes that someone will notice it.
DW

[50+]

I had the same problem with the short piece of rubber tubing with a K&N fipk kit on my last truck, a 2500HD 6.0. Mine came off and check engine light came on. Like a dummy I didnt look under the hood, and took it to the dealer. Embarrissing to say the least. I was never convinced it helped the performance, just made alot of noise. It probably did but not noticeable.

[Ponderosa JT]

Dick, I have the S&B also. I'm not sure where additional holes could be drilled. The bottom would require the metal mounting plate to also be drilled. The fender side already has a hole approximately the size of the hole in the fender (after you remove the foil). Anywhere else would probably let in hot air. As far as a snorkel of some type, I'm sure something could be constructed from PVC pipe, just make sure the diameter is large enough to be effective, maybe use Volant as a design guide. By the way, I have had to retighten the mounting bolts on the air box as they have come loose twice. Next time they get locktight. Haven't had any problems with hoses or clamps.

Jeff

[DickWells]

:) Thanks, guys. Actually, I think I could access quite a bit of new air, from the side where the foil used to be. Quite a web of sheet metal there.
Cutting holes through the air box and on through the bottom mount metal is what I was referring to. Thing is, how much more air can the filter itself take in, than it can get right now? Do you think S&B and other after-market people have already tried that?-- And maybe failed to get any added benefit? Just curious. I'll bet if I called S&B and asked about it, I'd get a desertation on not messing with GM, or S&B engineering!
Heck, I think I'll just have a spell of "shade tree", one of these days, and go buy me a 1.5" hole saw. I'll teach those Canadian truck builders to block off air to my Duramax! :D
DW:)

[Ponderosa JT]

Dick, I did happen to call S&B to explain some installation issues I had and offer some thoughts on improvements. The operator handed me off to a technical guy. He thanked me for my inputs. It turned out to be Berry Carter (Company President). He was very friendly and explained his design choices and ability to test with the ISO5001 set-up to verify. It wouldn't hurt to call or email. They maybe able to tell you if the holes in the airbox are the limiting factor or the filter for maximum airflow.

Jeff

[killerbee]

Jeff, I have done a little testing on this subject, so I'll chime in. The 2 openings stamped in the fender, are not sufficient for the d-max needs. If you use an intake that snuggles up to it, you will have a great deal of pressure drop across that transition, I measured a 10-12 iwc loss, which is about .5 psi, on stock airflow. nearly 1 psi on with 28 psi boost, from custom tuning. That is very significant. It is important because, as a result of the resultant suction, pre-heated air leaks in more readily around the openings and cracks. That reduces the "cold air" effectiveness by a small margin. Plus the turbo must work harder to produce the same plenum boost (1 psi harder), this creates more heat, bad for turbo longevity (higher rpm) and bad for power (hotter charge).

IMO, if you can get more opening, WITHOUT losing cold air effectiveness, do it. The intake I built is a box sealed to the fender, and also has a "normally closed" sprung relief door on the front face of the box. Shrouding that opening helps preserve cold air effectiveness under max performance conditions. The other really good reason for doing this, mostly overlooked, is weather freindliness. Too much suction force (pressure drop) on the fender, will draw in heavy contaminants, like water. This originally is why you and I need a cold air solution: GM used to have the intake snugged to the fender, until the element got loaded up from excess moisture. A larger opening, believe it or not, would create a lower vacuum effect.

I prefer the "through the front" sprung door approach for the vacuum relief.

[Snowbear]

Jeff, I have done a little testing on this subject, so I'll chime in. The 2 openings stamped in the fender, are not sufficient for the d-max needs. If you use an intake that snuggles up to it, you will have a great deal of pressure drop across that transition, I measured a 10-12 iwc loss, which is about .5 psi, on stock airflow. nearly 1 psi on with 28 psi boost, from custom tuning. That is very significant. It is important because, as a result of the resultant suction, pre-heated air leaks in more readily around the openings and cracks. That reduces the "cold air" effectiveness by a small margin. Plus the turbo must work harder to produce the same plenum boost (1 psi harder), this creates more heat, bad for turbo longevity (higher rpm) and bad for power (hotter charge).

IMO, if you can get more opening, WITHOUT losing cold air effectiveness, do it. The intake I built is a box sealed to the fender, and also has a "normally closed" sprung relief door on the front face of the box. Shrouding that opening helps preserve cold air effectiveness under max performance conditions. The other really good reason for doing this, mostly overlooked, is weather freindliness. Too much suction force (pressure drop) on the fender, will draw in heavy contaminants, like water. This originally is why you and I need a cold air solution: GM used to have the intake snugged to the fender, until the element got loaded up from excess moisture. A larger opening, believe it or not, would create a lower vacuum effect.

I prefer the "through the front" sprung door approach for the vacuum relief.

Any pics of the setup?