Injectors this weekend, Any advice ?

[sailun]

Going to R & R the injectors this weekend. Any advice ? Any last words ?

Already mod'd my 3/4" 12-pt box end wrench into a flare wrench, as someone smart suggested.

Injectors and kit just waiting to go. Bot 2 different deeps, one is 30mm axle socket, the other is 1 3/16 OPS socket.

Really looking forward to the turbo mounting bolts, hoping that's the worst of it.

Is there any sort of gasket or seal in the oil return line fitting ?

All advice is greatly appreciated.

[billschall]

Going to R & R the injectors this weekend. Any advice ? Any last words ?

Already mod'd my 3/4" 12-pt box end wrench into a flare wrench, as someone smart suggested.

Injectors and kit just waiting to go. Bot 2 different deeps, one is 30mm axle socket, the other is 1 3/16 OPS socket.

Really looking forward to the turbo mounting bolts, hoping that's the worst of it.

Is there any sort of gasket or seal in the oil return line fitting ?

All advice is greatly appreciated.

WD40, Dude. Start soaking the injection line nuts & turbo mounting bolts now. I squirted a little on mine each day, for four days, and only ended up snapping two lines - but they were R-E-A-L-L-Y rusted. If they don't give at first, don't push 'em: soak some more & wait. Or else you'll be replacing lines too. If your modified box wrench wants to spread open, you may need to borrow or invest in a good quality 6-point flare nut wrench. You'll need a crows foot to torque 'em back down.

Day B4 R&R spray injector area down with Gunk or equivalent and pressure wash (but not on a hot engine :) ) don't want any crap falling into the head.

Wrap each line with a corner of a baggie & then a piece of cloth/rag tied up with a rubber band as you loosen 'em - cleanliness is imperative.

If you got new return lines (the handy push-on type) just cut the old ones off the injectors - those little clips will lead you to drinkin', make you learn new curse words, etc. Also go to your local auto parts store and pick up an extra pack of those clips. You will only need them for the front injector return lines on either side that goes to the steel return tube, but they break real easy and I only got two in my kit. Too bad, I didn't know you were doing this earlier, I would have sent you my extras.

Oil return line fitting gasket?? No comprendo...

Good luck!

[DickWells]

:) I've R&Rd the injecters once, and the lines twice on my Suburban, without removing the turbo. Lots of fun. I did remove some of the periferals around it, especially the front heat shield, with those pesky little short 6mm bolts. The heat shields down around the manifolds are tough, but do-able. I felt it was worth the struggle to not have to deal with the turbo bolts. Just my preference. Have plenty of adhesive tape on hand.
Good luck.
Dick Wells:)

[Shikaroka]

I didn't have any problems with taking the turbo off. I thought that was one of the easiest parts. I'm not sure why people say/thinks it's tough. Maybe mine had been off before, but I doubt it.

I thought they injectors were pretty easy and I had never done them before.

I only had one problem, and hence my advice.
Make sure your 30mm socket is pretty deep, with no ridges half-way down. And, make sure you have the socket straight on the injectors and on all the way.
My Snap-On 30mm deep-well impact socket was really long, but not really deep. It had a "step" a little ways down. This "step" put stress on the return line nipples of the injectors, and broke off a couple of them. So watch out!

All-in-all, it's not bad. Just take your time.

[sailun]

Thanks, guys.

Off to buy crows feet. Never used one before.

[robertb6963]

Took mine off last week, new ones next week.

The clips on the inject lines were the worst! I think a 45 degree pair of needle nose wolud have help, but just cut my knuckles up instead!

I didn't wrap up the lines(and may have bent them a bit), what is the best way to clean them?

Was worth the time to pull the hood I think.

Anybody remember how the thin metal pieces that bolt to the valve cover go?
Or which bolts go where on the valve cover?(Ones with threads on both sides?)
Or feel like putting all this back together for me?LOL!

[rameye]

sailun,,

if your going thru the trouble of dissassembly for the injectors...may i suggest you do glow plugs on the passenger side also.

very little additional work, will pay dividends down the road.

my $.02

in Ct.

[DickWells]

:) I hope the guys who read this don't get tired of having me say it, but here goes, again. If you don't have Jim's R&R guide and 6.5 books, you're missing out on a good thing. Lots of help for the money!
I wish I could remember how and where those little inj line brakets go, but can't. Seems like they were fairly obvious, since they just clamp the lines in pairs, under rubber pads. I always made diagrams on cardboard, before I tore them down.
Hope you didn't bend the lines enough to kink them. Should be bent just enough to get a wrench on the injecters.
Probably goes without saying, but can't overlook the benefit of removing the pass. side fender liner. Makes everything a lot easier. Also, same could be said for leaving the inj./line nuts cracked for purging the air out, while you turn it over prior to first start-up after R&R.
Good idea, that about changing out the pass. side glow plugs.
Good luck.:)

[sailun]

The turbo side is done. Driver's side today.

Thought I twisted the head off the first turbo bolt I freed up, didn't know it was a nut under there. Was VERY releieved when I figured out everything was OK.

Yah, glow plugs woulda been a good idea, eh ? I think I can get to most of them w/o pulling turbo, later.

Love those little clips, probably one whole hour was wasted just removing the clips. Off to the store to buy the longest pair of bent-nose pliers I can find, before I start this AM.

Heat shield was no issue for me. 2 little 6mm nuts, slide out, bend one tab a little bit, slide in. Actually, that was the easiest part the whole day. I'm guessing I have a different design than the earlier years, based on the other heat shield comments I've read.

Rear inner (valve cover side) turbo bolt was the absolute worst part, right after the clips. V. little room for wrench, casting in the way. Front inner turbo bolt not much better.

I would def'ly buy a wobble extension, next time, (NEVER AGAIN) to use on the turbo bolts.

Bot a 30mm axle socket, and a 1 3/16 OPS socket, both worked fine, in any hole. $20 total investment.

Was sure wishing I had crow's feet for injectors, and injector line nuts. Got by w/o them.

Best tool was my iron pipe, to slide over wrenchs to break things loose.
Could not have broken injectors, or lines loose w/o it.

Started great after only about 2 extra rotations, no stumbles, no smoke, ran great instantly, did not bleed anything.

[DickWells]

:) I think you're lucky, in that the IP is electronic in your rig. Seems like the elec. system helps purge your lines without cracking the nuts at the injecters. My mechanical pump retro took a LOT of bleeding at the injecters. But, once the thing was clear of air, the old Burb has been the quickest starting thing I've ever owned. Cold or hot, just glow it till the light goes out, hit the starter and it's running. Rough at first, then settles down and gives MUCH better throttles response and overall power.
Glad to see you made out OK.
Oh, if you ever get tired of not trusting the ole 6.5, just spend the money for a nice new 4911 mechanical, and start enjoying 1000s of miles without FSD problems, etc.:D
DW

[sailun]

There, she runs much crisper, now.

Hard shake at shut-off now greatly reduced.

Never did buy the crowsfoot, or big pliers.

Somewhere along the way, I realized y'all were holdin' out on me, and didn't share your secret weapon for nukin those little clips !! :-)

I bet the job could be done in half the time, if I had some kind of two foot long clip-destroyer.

I'm thinkin a two-foot ice pick I could hammer on, or something like your grandfather's dandelion plucker.

You folks that work on motors often, what's your technique ?

[a5150nut]

I'm thinkin a two-foot ice pick I could hammer on, or something like your grandfather's dandelion plucker.

You folks that work on motors often, what's your technique ?

Yep! A bigger hammer always works. And it helps to use plenty of lubrication. Budwiser, Michelobe, a little Jack.....................Oh, I forgot. That's why it DIDN'T get fixed right the first time!

Now I remember why I had to do it over again! :)

But it was a lot more fun back then.