99 non-turbo into 95 turbo sub project

[GSE2SCHMIDT]

Well trying to turn this 99 non-turbo bread truck chassis engine into a 95 turbo diesel for my 95 suburban(F motor)

During manifold swap overs a few items.

All the accessories are switched around. Bread truck "Wonder Bread" engine did not have A/C so an idle pulley was used and no vacuum pump so a vacuum pump "blank" is used in its place. This would be cool to use for say a mechanical turbo wastegate that abondon's the vacuum system. This makes it so including the tensioner this engine had 3 pulleys that did nothing, but the belt is about 8ft long.

Optical sensor, mine has a noise supressor in the harness this one did not....should I leave it out? I heard that for troubleshooting to remove it....not sure if that's ok on a perminent basis.

Water Pump ok it wasn't a turbo so it only has a single stat, looks like the dual setup a little but just a single, and no HO stamp on the waterpump, so I think I'm going to run with it...at least I have a new threaded on fan.

Compression Ratio just read a training manual that said that 99's were something like a 19.5:1 compression ratio.....so is mine? If it is and we are now half way to a 18:1 compression ratio, would I get more performance or less, I'm going to use my factory vacuum pump/solenoid, so boost will stay low. The 18:1 guys probably use a different setup for more boost/fuel correct?

Driver side manifold the non turbo looks alot like my turbo.....is it the same? I guess I will have to wait and pull the engine to find out for sure. Trying to figure out the oil line thing.

[redbird2]

you should have not problem with this swap the basic engine is the same, is the wonder truck a electronic engine or mechanical, if it is mechanical make sure to remove the little plug out of the front cover left lower corner where the crank sensor goes it can be touchy to get out after you drop it in.

I did a way with the vacum pump on my 98 just run shorter belt and turbo master to control waste gate. I left the solenoid to fool the ECM no SES lights this way

I would put back the way yours was for the noise supressor not going to hurt leaving it.

I think i read some where that all the screw on fans where HO water pumps I have never seen P30 with a dual thermostat just drop yours on there

as for compression ratio should be the same as your thats waht I run have good power with mine well it is hopped up a little

I don't think the manifolds are the same maybe you will get lucky and can still read the part numbers that are casted into the manifold I think you will be reusing your old one.

good luck

[oilburnertoo]

Hi,The screw on fan water pumps are all HO pumps ['99 first year], the left exhaust manifold is different than yours, as are the oil cooler lines. Is this a take-out engine? I have never seen a crate engine equiped with oil cooler lines yet and I have installed dozens of GM crate engines. I also question the electronic injector pump, as to the best of my knowledge the P-chassis were all mechanical injector pumps through year '99/'00.

[GSE2SCHMIDT]

Still trying what will stay and what will go.

I think for now I will leave the supressor in line but make sure I have enough slack to eliminate it.

Yeah the manifold on the driver side is different, I have the engines at 2 different sites but now the extra parts are in the back of the truck, kinda looks like a 6.5 exploded view.

The injection pump is a 5521, hopefully that's all good.

The water pump is in debate. 3 votes say I have(1 nay) the high flow pump because it is a screw on fan(steel fan not composite) I do not see the high flow stamp anywhere on the pump, not sure if i am looking correctly. Some say if it is a single stat then its not a high flow pump because it may actually blow the freeze plugs out....don't really want to find out, don't really have the funds to just drop another $300 and swap it out.

Oil lines.....when I started the project I justified a lower expense because I had new fuel lines and oil cooler lines to install....hey the factory ones wept but they held up here in the rustbelt in Ohio for 200K. The new block has these huge holes, some guys use reducers and get away with it seems like every time I try and route non-factory stuff something rubs or something and hey can I really beat 200K doubt if the new ones will last that long. The motor was a take out of a bread truck chassis that never was assembled.....

Anyway while I'm pulling out my starter eating motor (with 210K on original IP and injectors) I am trying to justify to myself why I need an improved water pump, never overheated, never cracked...and why I need and improved huge set of oil lines, yeah squirters.....and bigger pump improvements.....so tell me if GM had issues with the water pumps back in 1996 and improved them in 1997 why does my 1999 engine not have the improved stuff on it?

I swear that if a GM engineer shut his tie in the hood of the truck in 1996 he would still be found in 1999 on the assembly line going....."I know I've got a problem, and I'm working on it, but we are going to go with what we know works.....with his head still being held by his tie in the hood"

[Warren96]

My 94 ( wich I bought new) had the original pump for 12 years before it started weeping. Replaced with another GM stock capacity pump with single thermostat.It never overheated in 12 years. I like to use a 180 degree stat in the hottest part of the summer though.But if you dont do any towing why spend hundreds on a pump that you may never need?

[john8662]

The new block has these huge holes, some guys use reducers and get away with it seems like every time I try and route non-factory stuff something rubs or something and hey can I really beat 200K doubt if the new ones will last that long.

Adapting the lines isn't that hard if done properly.

I can help you steer free of the wrong adapters though. The regular plumbing type adapters (1/2NPT to 3/8NPT) aren't up to the task and will leak and eventually break.

Find a Hydraulic shop and get STEEL, this is what I ended up doing for a 97 block of mine.

The cast adapters I had ended up snapping off in the block when I was attempting to tighten them to fix a leak. Luckily easily removed and remedied.

J

[More Power]

All of the 1999 water pumps I've seen with the screw-on style clutch were the hi-cap variety, and none of them had the "HO" cast letters on them. You could measure the diameter of the impeller. I don't remember the exact diameter off the top of my head, but it is about 1/4" larger (and slightly thicker) than that used by the 87-gpm pump.

Jim

[GSE2SCHMIDT]

I had one of the factory GM 6.5 training manuals White with horizontal pinstripes that gave a full description of the oil system. I believe the oil filter has a bypass in case it becomes clogged and the oil cooler ports could only have a certain delta pressure across them before another bypass opened, mainly for cold conditions with a cold sluggish cooler or if it became clogged, i didn't think the oil cooler lines were 100% of oil flow to the engine either, am I correct?

Hey I did run across an interesting site that lists several GM training manuals that are in PDF format and can be downloaded/printed.....for training purposes only. One of the suppliments is the 6.5 another is the Duramax and several on the 4l80e and 4l60e and even things like quadrasteer.

look under Auto 117 for 6.5

http://fsunw3.ferris.edu/~millerm/index.htm