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BRIM
03-05-2007, 19:34
1995 6.5TD GMC pick-up; Going to work this a.m. 75 MPH 20 mile drive, I didn't make it. It died & no re-start period. Towed to dear old dads.

Codes pulled : 13, 49, 57, 61, 62, 77, 78, 84, 99

Is this another FSD failure?? replace it 1st, then fuel solenoid or both at same time???

Anyone chime in please, before I scrap this & dive into endless debt....
billschall
03-05-2007, 20:30
Interesting. All codes refer to electrical issues.

Code 13: ESO circuit fault
Code 49: STS lamp circuit fault
Code 57: PCM 5 volt shorted
Code 61: Turbo boost sensor circuit high
Code 62: Turbo boost sensor circuit low
Code 77: not listed
Code 78: wastegate solenoid fault
Code 84: APP circuit fault
Code 99: APP 5 Volt Reference Fault

Might want to check the three plugs in the PCM (behind the glove box) and go out from there. There's got to be a common denominator.
gmctd
03-05-2007, 21:06
Check the harness down by the ac evaporator tube, lower passenger-side firewall for frayed wires.

Also look at all the harness wiring thruout the engine bay for frayed, broke, oxidized, corroded, etc, including that across the firewall behind the engine.

Where is the FSD module mounted?
sailun
03-06-2007, 07:12
How about all the grounding ? Cured my elec problems: blowing ECM-B fuse.

If the firewall to frame ground strap gave up (under the AC), would that leave the PCM without good grounding ?

check batt cables to engine and body,
move ECM grounds (2 wires) from rear passenger head stud to next intake stud forward, (my intake stud already had a ground on it, so it was a no-brainer)
make new grounds from intake stud to firewall, and frame ?

Just suggestions. Even if it doesn't solve this problem, it solves or prevents others.
DickWells
03-06-2007, 19:35
FWIW, my 95 did the same thing one time, and the ONLY thing wrong, was the ground on the passenger side, at the transmission check tube bracket (above no 8) was loose/open. Worth a check, as well as all other grounds.
Good luck.
DW:)
kevin77
03-06-2007, 20:05
FWIW, my 95 did the same thing one time, and the ONLY thing wrong, was the ground on the passenger side, at the transmission check tube bracket (above no 8) was loose/open. Worth a check, as well as all other grounds.
Good luck.
DW:)

When I had my engine out, I replaced that ground and it cured my wiper malfunctioning, washer not working, and made my gauges stop bouncing.

it looked fine from the outside, but when I removed it, the underneath was caked with white deposits.

Kevin
sailun
03-06-2007, 21:19
Found a good picture of grounding to intake stud in Shikaroka's gallery.

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=210&cat=500&ppuser=19697

See crimp-on terminals in top left in picture. Move your grounds from rearmost stud (not visible in picture) to here.

Run a new wire from here to firewall, and also down to frame. (Visible inside RF inner fender flap.
BRIM
03-06-2007, 21:55
I really appreciate all advice & will be tracing wires & connections tomorrow night after work.

I hope I find something... I am not really wanting to replace FSD or pump or ????

Thanks
sailun
03-07-2007, 07:44
BTW, did you check the fuses ? ECM-B will kill your truck dead, will crank just fine, never start.

Probably others, too.

If so, buy a bunch, you may be able to make it home.

Emphasis on maybe.

Disclaimer: This problem didn't throw any codes, for me.
DickWells
03-07-2007, 11:44
:) Again, FWIW, the bad ground that kept returning, was the one on top of the frame, below the starter. This is a notorious one. A self-threading bolt. Will corrode, loosen up, or break, maybe all three. My cure was to drill a 5/16 hole through the frame, from over the right-front tire, and put a double-nutted SS 5/16X2.5? bolt through there. Never bothered again. But, it never stopped me dead on the road either. Just made the 6.5 run lousy, and kept that sinking feeling in the pit of my gut.
DW
BRIM
03-07-2007, 19:29
First off, testing the fuel shut-off solenoid. If you apply 12V straight to it, should the plunger pull up into the solenoid or push the plunger down.

Have disconnected & removed from the pump & applied 12v and get ZERO response from solenoid. Is it bad??? I guess it is possible.

Also found blown 20 amp fuse in engine compartment for FUEL SOL ..
Replaced it, but nothing different happening; still no start.

Have check all grounds & connectors, whats next ??

Thanks
gmctd
03-07-2007, 21:38
Power pulls the plunger up into the ESO solenoid, opening the fuel valve.

FSOL Fuse supplies the ESO solenoid and the FSD\PMD and some other stuff