Zero Oil PSI -- UPDATE -- Bad Engine

[DennisG01]

Here's the update on the engine problem. I figured let's leave the other post for discussion on the low oil warning system.

The shop called me tonight - they got it in at the end of the day - said to come on down. The mechanic was able to spin the flywheel with a prybar, but the the engine was making squeaking noises that sent a shiver down my spine and at the same time VISA was probably getting a big old grin on their face! He's gonna check into it a little more tomorrow, but the prognosis is obviously not good.

What are my options? Does Jasper make short blocks? Penninsular? RonnieJoe - what have you been up to with your engines? Those of you that have done a Cummins conversion, is it a kit or more of a "make it up as you go thing"?

ANY AND ALL SUGGESTIONS WELCOME AND APPRECIATED!

[ronniejoe]

If you're interested, give me a call. I have one in process as we speak.

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

"RonnieJoe - what have you been up to with your engines?" Well, the one he built for himself - pounding the crap out of it. ;) RJ's footfeed has two positions - idle & WO. Really, he only needs a toggle switch.

Blessings!

[Patrick m.]

RJ prolly has the best engine deal you can get, i did my own because i had to pinch a few pennies. (and i had a buildable spare)
Jasper will cost in the neighborhood of a GM replacement. Neither can compare to what RJ does to his engines

[john8662]

Bummer, didn't want you to get this news...

Many options out there.

I personally vote for a stock replacement engine. Or a peformance engine built with stock compression ratio, if factory or slightly above factory performance is desired.

J

[JohnC]

If money is an issue, I'd still look at the bottom end. If the crank is OK you can probably get away with new bearings and maybe a light hone and re-ring job. Not optimal, but a lot cheaper than a new engine.

(If the crank is blue under the bearing caps, walk away...)

[DennisG01]

Money is definitely an issue. But, I want to keep the Suburban for quite a long time so I don't want to skimp, either. I thought about an Ebay special or finding a truck that was totaled (witha good engine). But I don't know if that makes sense in the long run as I may just be inheriting a problem or a problem that's about ready to start. I'll ask the mechanic what he thinks - as far as how far gone the engine is. It might be worth it to atleast look at the crank - thanks for the idea.

[DennisG01]

Well, a new engine will definitely be going in. Just have to decide which one. I've come up with 4 options:

Prices don't include labor.

1) Jasper long block

2) Jasper "complete running" dyno'd engine. Includes turbo and IP (although my IP is only about a year old

3) Kennedy diesel long block - using a new block

4) Kennedy drop-in engine - using a new block

5) Ron Schoolcraft's built long block. Includes 18:1, timing gears, splayed main caps

I'm leaning towards Kennedy's or Ron's.


Other than playing with the shaft, is there a better way to tell if my turbo is OK? Whether or not it is OK may help me decide which way to go.

[JohnC]

Well, a new engine will definitely be going in.

What made up your mind?

[DennisG01]

Well, I talked to the mechanic again and discussed pulling the oil pan as you mentioned. But, I kept thinking that even if the crank looked good, I would always have it in the back of mind that "is it really OK, or am I going to have another problem down the road". Also, since I'm not doing any of the work myself, the costs associated with rebuilding the engine will approach the cost of a new one. The mechanic and I agreed that for piece of mind it would be best to get a new one - besides, he may spend a good deal of time tearing it apart and checking it just to find out it's no good and then I have that bill along with still having the bill for a new engine. I totally trust him and he has said many times that he'll pull it apart and check it for me, but since I plan on keeping the Suburban for quite a while I think I'll feel better in the long run with a new engine. It's a shame, this engine only has about 96K miles on it.

[oilburnertoo]

Have you approached GM about some sort of warranty on this, they know they have issues with these engines. I remember reading a post that GM sprung for about 20%-25% of the cost of a new crate motor for one of the posters here, he had a similar[sp] vehicle and mileage as yours. It may be worth it to try to get something back from GM.

[DennisG01]

It was an add-on, aftermarket part that failed - actually I'm pretty sure it was my fault. But, thank you, I appreciate the thought!