1998 K3500 engine removal questions

[derekja]

Hi,

So I'm making progress, but I feel unsure of several areas that perhaps I could get some advice on.

1) I'm having a hard time finding the lift brackets. In the following picture, the front lift bracket is easy, but the rear lift bracket should be at the back of cylinder 8 right by the transmission oil dipstick and against the engine firewall, right? Despite previous assurances that the lift brackets are already on the engine I don't find anything except a hole to bolt in the J 36857 lift bracket that the manual talks about.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v719/derekja/truck/brackets.jpg

2) It was suggested that I take the turbo and manifold off to make more space. How necessary is this? Where is the best place to do this from? The manifold bolts are rusted on hard, but somewhat accessible, the mount bolts appear completely inaccessible currently. The 2 support bars are easily accessible, but don't do me any good without the manifold detached.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v719/derekja/truck/turbo.jpg

3) The crossover pipe is most easily removed from the 2 3 bolt flanges, correct? Those bolts are rusted on solid, but I've got them soaking right now. No reason to take the manifold off until the engine is out, is there?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v719/derekja/truck/crossover.jpg

4) totally unrelated to the other questions, but I notice a lot of oil on my oil cooler lines. I haven't noticed dripping or anything, but they are definately wet. Given the fellow posting right now in another thread about his having popped off and done serious engine damage when he drove without oil, is this something that I should address right away? Or is a bit of oil leakage here normal?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v719/derekja/truck/oilcooler.jpg


As always, thanks for all your help with my many newbie questions!

--Derek

[sailun]

Oil Cooler Lines.

I'm on my third set of lines. The factory stuff sucks, badly, will leak again, and is ridiculously expensive.

Look into the replacement kits offered by several vendors. They've GOT to be better.

Some members have theirs made up at hydraulic shops.

Can't help you with the other problems.

[redbird2]

hope this will help
#1 just use one of the bolts at the rear of the engine as lift point. you can also use a flat plate with a hole drilled in each end and bolt one end to the back of the right head.

#2 just remove the turbo from the manifold, you can pull it with it on I have never tried it was always worried would damage the turbo if something slipped. the turbos are not that hard to remove 4 base mount bolts, 2 oil return line bolts, one oil feed line thats all

#3 no you can leave the manifolds on they are a true apin in the ass to remove in the truck as for the cross over I've had to use heat to get them loose, soak them drill them out just what ever it takes

#4 GM cooler lines suck I've lost count how many engines I've replaced due to these dam things some where in the 15-20 in last 5 years, I've gone with SST cooler lnes made locally i think it was $100-125 for both lines never seen it even look like a seep anymore

Good Luck

[derekja]

thanks, all.

Lift bolt and metal plate in, turbo removed, manifolds staying on, aftermarket cooler on "to order" list.

Couple things left to unhook down below and should lift the engine out on Thursday.

Thanks!

[derekja]

Yikes, that was exciting.

Just for future reference, simpson strong tie straps are not sufficient to lift an engine. Really dumb in retrospect. I put two of them in, but the chain connector ripped through both of them. Fortunately before the engine was really off the mounts, so it just fell right back into place.

The universe was kind because I don't think any damage was done except for to my confidence. But yikes.

Off to find a suitable steel plate rather than wimpy metal straps... I've got a friend coming to help tomorrow I think.

[Robyn]

These engine weigh about 900#

use a good chain with at least 3/8 inch diameter material in the links and use at least 3/16" steel for the lift bracket

I have seen lift rigs break, (NOT MINE) and an engine swing into the windshield and land upside down in the front seat.

Now that paints a very ugly picture !!! ;0(

Saw that one many years ago and hope to never see it again.

Be safe and use a heavy chain

[derekja]

The deed is done!

Whew, that's a relief. (I know, probably seems pretty minor to those of you who have been doing this all your lives, but it seemed like quite a big deal to me...)

Everything went off without a hitch. Well, most everything anyway. The cable harness section going down to the front differential was routed in (pinched in, actually) between the engine and the exhaust manifold and had to come off to get free. That cable was in the wrong place, I think, because it's all crispy. I think I'll have to figure out how to replace it before the engine goes in. The wires still connect OK, but I can't put back in something that fried...

Thanks for all the help and advice getting to this point! Now to disassemble and see what I've got...

[DickWells]

Whatever kind of replacement oil lines you use, be sure to put the new pipe fittings in while the engine is out! I put a set of Gregg,s lines in a few years back, and dealing with those fittings up there next to the oil filter addapter is a real pain, even though I had a pit to work from.
Good luck with the rest of your project.
DW:)

[john8662]

I hear you on removing the engine being a major accomplisment!

Cause, it is!!!

I don't enjoy the task, although completed 7 times now, and #8 coming this week (6.2 to 6.5).

Re-install is more fun, but get yourself a helper to either run the crane or guide and watch for snags.

Interesting that GM skimped on the rear mount bracket. Maybe someone else has had this engine out before and didn't re-install the bracket?

At any rate, I'd suggest getting one, even if you have to tell the dealer it's for a '95 or so.

Ditto on the CHAIN, and it being 3/8" thick.

[78Chev]

I'll bet someone R&R'd the head on that side with engine in the bay and forgot to put the bracket back on when they reinstalled it. Hmmm, wonder how I might know that...
Randy

[Robyn]

The wiring you speak of is normally routed behind the starter and between the block and a small metal heat shield.

Take a close look at that area of the block where those wires lay. There is nomally a lot of casting flash around that area that needs to be ground down smooth so the wiring does not chaff and wear through.

Look things over well and replace any wiring that is bare or otherwise unstuitable for reuse.

I went throught this on our 94 Burb last summer.

When you put the engine back in leave the exhaust manifolds off until the engine is in.
You can then route the wiring in easily and install the heat shield and the starter with ease. (be sure to use the support on the back of the starter too)

The exhaust manifolds can easily be installed in the truck and the turbo bolted on.

Use plenty of never seaze on the exhaust and turbo bolts to insure ease of removal later if need be.

Sounds like you are well on the way.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Robyn

[john8662]

although this isn't the re-install thread I had to add that I disagree with the above advice on leaving the exhaust manifold off the engine during the stabbing of the engine back into the chassis.

Install the manifolds before installing the engine.

Leave the turbo off the engine until you're at the stage of re-installing it in chassis.

The turbo side manifold is not easy to snake back in beside the downpipe etc. Yeah, you can leave the downpipe in place too.

J