3 Questions

[billschall]

I can see a faint glimmer of light at the end of this long dark tunnel now. However, I've got three issues:

(1) I tried to be meticulous about marking stuff when I came apart, but I've got this one piece that has me stumped. Can anybody tell me where this piece goes?
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/500/thumbs/P1010023.JPG
(larger image in the photo album section, www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/500/thumbs/P1010023.JPG)

(2) I purchased a 6' PMD extension cable to mount the heat-sync between the driver's side battery & radiator support. There is a short ground wire coming off the PMD harness that bolted to the heat sync when I had it mounted on the intake. Does this wire need to be grounded?

(3) I took my vacuum pump apart for cleaning/examination. A small amount of oil leaked out when I removed the diaphragm from the pump. Does anybody know what kind of oil goes inside the pump and what kind?

Thanks,
-Bill

[gmctd]

That looks like the spacer plate for the transmission support - goes between the trans and the mounting pad.

The short black wire in the FSD\PMD harness should always be grounded to the top of the Inj Pump - that is the Fuel Solenoid ground return - must never be lengthened.
Pull it back thru the harness and ground it at the driver's-side rear screw on the top cover.

That is regular Diesel motor oil, for the cam - you'll need the plunger seal if you found oil in the diaphragm chamber.

Did you find a rebuild kit for the vac pump?

[ronniejoe]

I think that's a wire harness support that bolts to the back of the driver's side cylinder head. The picture is very small and not too clear.

[DmaxMaverick]

Try THIS LINK (http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/500/P1010023.JPG) for a larger pic.

[ronniejoe]

Scratch my comment, then.

[billschall]

That looks like the spacer plate for the transmission support - goes between the trans and the mounting pad.

I didn't pull anything off the trans except the cooler lines & pan. Nor did this pc fit on the back of the head.


The short black wire in the FSD\PMD harness should always be grounded to the top of the Inj Pump - that is the Fuel Solenoid ground return - must never be lengthened.
Pull it back thru the harness and ground it at the driver's-side rear screw on the top cover.

Do I gotta pull the intake?


That is regular Diesel motor oil, for the cam - you'll need the plunger seal if you found oil in the diaphragm chamber.

Did you find a rebuild kit for the vac pump?

Diaphragm's dry, just lost a bit of oil when separating the pump from the diaphragm. Just wanted to make sure there is enough oil in pump before going back together. No rebuild kit, if it fails I'll replace it, but it was working fine before I fooled with it...

[ronniejoe]

I know what it is, now!

That's the mount bracket for the air box.;)

[gmctd]

That rear top-cover screw should be visible from the driver's-side front of the vehicle - it's an allen-head screw - just remove it, insert it thru the ground-lug ring, reinstall, and you're good to go.

If that's not grounded well, you'll get hesitation, misfire, hard start, bucking, fishbiting, loss of cruise - it'll stunt the crops, curdle cow's milk, dogs and cats will live together, chaos and confusion will reign, dude.

Dunno about that bracket, then - sure looks like the one on the rear trans mount, stabilizes the soot-trap\exhaust pipe via another bracket.

My truck's just a teeny bit different than yours, so no way to check that, fer sure.

Never mind - ronnie joe nailed it............

[billschall]

No wonder I couldn't figure it out:rolleyes: . The OEM air box is out & the K&N air filter is in. Wasted of paint I suppose.

Thanks for the help guys. Really, really appreciate it.


And I'll ground that little sucker as we can't have cats & dogs living together...

[JohnC]

There's a little crankcase in the vacuum pump body and that's where the oil is from. I could be wrong, but IIRC the oil called out was 80 or 90 wt. Weight and quantity are in the service manual.

If the black wire was grounded to the heat sink, that was wrong. As mentioned, it belongs on the pump cover screw. Stock is the middle one on the driver's side, IIRC.

[billschall]

The last step of the instructions that came with the heat sync said to attach the harness ground wire onto the heat sync underneath the ground screw provided.

Perhaps this is why I kept experiencing some, but not all, of the things that gmctd mentioned. The ground wire has now been relocated to its original home.

I suppose I should let the vendor know about this, huh?

[Shikaroka]

The last step of the instructions that came with the heat sync said to attach the harness ground wire onto the heat sync underneath the ground screw provided.


I did that. I put the ground wire on the heat sink and I've never had any problems.

[gmctd]

The heatsink has no need for a ground - the Fuel Solenoid will not work without the ground - the FSD is grounded thru the Closure Ground wire from the PCM - the FS ground wire belongs on the Inj Pump.

We alerted the vendor, but he doesn't understand, and I guess it costs money to change the info on the 'site and the text in the instructions, so you lose, folks.

Write this info on a yellow 'stick-up' and place it near the FSD heatsinK.

And, please note, ronniejoe - I'm freely posting this info here, as on the other site, as I have done many times in the past - which is why you'll find identical 6.5 info on both sites, and any other site I frequent.

[atom_c]

When I relocated my FSD to a heat sink in the bumper I brought the ground wire along. It is quite lengthened from its original form and grounded to the heat sink which is bolted to the bumper. I did this about 15k miles ago. So far the cats and dogs are living peacefully. Might be something I need to revisit though.

[sailun]

I was thinking the same question about the ground wire, as my new extension harness will be here Friday, and I plan to move the cooler to the driver side fender.

I put a cooler on the intake last summer, when I had a PMD failure. Directions said to move the ground wire to the cooler. So I did.

No cat and dog symptoms, but once in while a fishbite so faint, I think I'm only imagining it.

I agree the cooler doesn't need a ground wire, so I'll be moving the wire back onto the pump, as you suggest.

Many thanks to GMCTD.

[ronniejoe]

Whose cooler kit are you talking about?

[gmctd]

Look for 'synC, rj, not 'sinK

The FSD connector has two black ground wires in it, and are extendable -

small one on C is Closure Ground, which ties to ground buss in the PCM

large one on F is Fuel Solenoid ground, which ties to same lug on FS as the black wire from the IP

The short black wire on the Inj Pump is the Fuel Solenoid ground, which should be left short and attached to the IP - you can move it to the rear-most screw on the cover if you need a little more service length, but don't lengthen it

You'll get low drive voltage on the FS, with long Closure Times, and resultant long-start and fishbiting, and DTC36\P1217

[billschall]

Whose cooler kit are you talking about?

check your mailbox.

[atom_c]

I remember two black wires I extended. So, maybe I am OK? I will go look to find the short wire grounded to the IP. I also get an occasional very faint "fish bite," but otherwise has been running fine.

Thanks

Adam

[sailun]

Moved ground wire back where it belongs, last night.

I've been chasing down a feeling of varying performance levels. I've always felt that the truck somehow changed it's timing or something, randomly. Good for a day, kind of sluggish for a day.

It would be nice if this was the problem.

We'll find out after new vacuum solenoid and vacuum lines go in today.
Been running 'natural' for a couple of days.

I must have the same cooler, ends in s*y*n*c.

[gmctd]

Check vacuum at the pump for 25" at idle and 2000rpm - sometimes the pump starts leaking at higher-than-idle rpm

There's another 'cooler around, with a PDC or PDM and a 'sync - may be of highly questionable value

[billschall]

...There's another 'cooler around, with a PDC or PDM and a 'sync - may be of highly questionable value

Can you elaborate?

[gmctd]

Uh.....not without starting a war. :eek:

Do a search on the 'net for PDC, but do not even get involved on that site.

[More Power]

It's perfectly OK with me if anyone wants to mention any or all of the other FSD/PMD remote coolers out there. In fact, I'm considering doing a product story entitled something like: "Remote Mount FSD/PMD Cooler Roundup". If I could get a cooler and extension harness from all or nearly all of the vendors that I've heard about to send me a sample to photograph (then return them in 1-2 weeks once the eval is complete), I'll include it. ebay is full of them... Might be entertaining and educational to show the quality and functionality of those available. ;)

Jim

[billschall]

It's perfectly OK with me if anyone wants to mention any or all of the other FSD/PMD remote coolers out there. In fact, I'm considering doing a product story entitled something like: "Remote Mount FSD/PMD Cooler Roundup". If I could get a cooler and extension harness from all or nearly all of the vendors that I've heard about to send me a sample to photograph (then return them in 1-2 weeks once the eval is complete), I'll include it. ebay is full of them... Might be entertaining and educational to show the quality and functionality of those available. ;)

Jim

When I bought my truck in March of 2006, I had no clue where to turn for parts and/or advice. Searching around the web, I found this place and other similar sites along with several vendors that specialized in the 6.5TD. The informational quality of TDP's T&R Guide convinced me to join TDP, and I've learned quite a bit about my machine simply by reading these pages these last few months. It has been an investment I would certainly repeat.

After just a few short weeks of ownership, the truck started to experience intermittent stalling, etc. After researching, and discovering, the flawed OEM PMD design, I decided to purchase a remote kit from Tim @ AccurateDiesel.com whom I found via eBay and appears to be a reseller for SSDieselSupply.com. The product I rec'd last summer appeared to be of good quality and I installed the heat sync onto my intake.

My symptoms subsided, but did not totally disappear. Tim was EXTREMELY helpful in diagnosing my ongoing issue and helped me to diagnose & replace that stupidly-located oil pressure switch that controls the lift pump. Walt up @ SSDiesel was also quite helpful and offered several suggestions. When it came time to replace the injectors & glow plugs, I gladly gave my business to Tim. In addition to the other parts, I also ordered a 6' extension cable from him. This cable also seems to be of good quality and craftsmanship (since I think they are hand-assembled).

The few posts in this thread along with a couple of PMs I've rec'd suggest concerns about the kit and/or cable. Please understand that I do not have any complaint with the quality of the products. My initial question was what to do with the PMD's harness ground that the instruction kit said to relocate from the pump to the sync.

GMCTD, who appears to be well-learned on these matters, provided an excellent, reasonable explanation for why the black wire goes to the pump and I've followed his advice.

Jim: If you'd like pics of my setup, let me know (soon) what you want and I'll take 'em. Also, if you do write that article, you might find it interesting to talk to one of our vendors (at work) who has a really negative opinion about these remote heat syncs - something about Snake Oil...


-Bill

[gmctd]

Jim, we've been considering that comparison test on the other site, as well, but with absolutely no intent to contact your nemesis and ours, who was booted from this site, and most others, for anti-social behaviour.

Thus, my reference to 'war', not wanting to refer anyone to his site, from here or there.

About half of those who come aboard already have some form of remote mounted module, some from that evil source.

Far as the good vendors, EFI 6.5-aware folks tend to go with Bill's product mainly because of the 7-year warranty, and the ex-engine bay mounting scheme has long been proven to be optimum for reliability.

Members who had some trouble with their own home-brew outside remote mounts neglected to water-proof the assembly, where cleanup and RTV was the suggested cure.

[More Power]

As far as extension harnesses go, I know of only one vendor who offers a properly waterproof/resistant electrical connector. That being Kennedy. Coolers are coolers, but there are engineering design considerations that make some better than others - some a lot better... Corrosion resistance is a big factor, and is why the good ones are anodized. Overall quality of construction, professional appearance, fit & finish and sound engineering design are all features I'd look for. I'd also look for engineering data that supports the heat dissipation potential of an advertised cooler, as well as other documented testing that looks at the whole system - not just the cooler, for clues that indicates whether the vendor/manufacturer actually understands the problem. How were the different wire gauges determined for an extension harness? What about RFI (radio frequency interference) with extended leads? Doing the job correctly involves a range of knowledge and skills beyond just copying what someone else does.

By the way, we produced an article in 1999 about an auxiliary relay for the 6.5 Oil Pressure Switch. It was only a matter of time before someone developed a "kit".... :D

Jim

[gmctd]

Yeah, I know - a lot of things we freely shared or discussed here were soon available on other sites, often as kits, also just as often misunderstood.

Bill's FSD configuration has been running for years, so most guys try to duplicate that system after they read about it.

Most guys clip the FSD weatherpak connector, splice in some 16-18ga wiring, so the FSD connection is still weather-proof, but the module attachment to the heatsink is not.

Water seeps in, fills the cavity between the electrically-hot driver cases and the grounded 'sink, and the intermittents begin.

Easy cure by running a bead of RTV around the cleaned module\'sink interface, and they're good to go.

I tested the FSD connected to the Inj Pump harness vs a 72" extended harness, to find no signal deterioration at all, no EMI\RFI, nor would I suspect any as long as the extension harness runs next to the engine and other metal surfaces, away from the alternator and ac compressor clutch.

A problem existed in the OBD1 systems which required the filter on Optic Sensor harness, but most trucks can live without the filter if upgraded to the 5521 IP and it's much improved OS assembly.

The actual FS Drive is a current loop, so length is not a hassle, there - 72" is the greatest length I've encountered, so I tested at that dimension.

A resistive connection on my truck caused a long Inj PW time of ~1.95ms, on both the direct connection and the 72" extension.

Tying FSD Pin D directly to the battery resulted in the correct IPW of ~1.84ms, direct connect or extended.

I ran the tests with my original FSD\PMD replacement, which you may remember, I mounted it to the Inj Pump for long-term comparison testing, back in '01, so if it had any intentions of failing, let the 72" extension prove it.

'Course, I had loosened and retightened the driver mounting nuts a couple times, since then, so I was not expecting failure.

It still boils down to where the assembly is mounted, what are the max temps attained when the engine is running, and what are the max temps endured during heat-soak when the engine is stopped.

The 'sink will absorb increased module temps and dump those to lower ambient temps, but it will also absorb hotter engine compartment temps and dump them into the cooler module - sort of a catch-22 scenario.

Move it out of the engine-bay, and it gives all the appearances of long-term survival.