Using a towbar on a 94 K series, Any thoughts?

[markelectric]

I have a need to pull 7 different trailers about 500 miles one way this summer and then after the show pull all of them back home. In trying to cut down my time on the road I was wondering about getting a second driver and pulling two out and then using a towbar to let one truck pull the other back so we could share the driving on the return trips. Anyone had any experience doing this? am I off my rocker? What would you see as the limiting factors? I have a towbar that was used to retrieve a couple of S1900 Internationals but that was short distances. I think the tow hook mount would be a good place to start on the Chevys to hook to. Your thoughts?

[More Power]

I've thought about the same thing. Here are my concerns.

1- You'll need to fabricate a towbar that is engineered for the load, and is long enough to allow full turning without bumping the corners of the bumpers.

2- You should buy a braking system for the towed vehicle. This is a device that presses on the brake pedal of the towed vehicle. I've seen them advertised in Camping World and other catalogs.

Without brakes on the towed vehicle, it could either climb over or under the front vehicle during an emergency stop.

When towing a 4WD truck, the manual says you should move the transfer case shift selector to neutral.

MP

[cruzer]

The tow bar needs to be mounted to the rear truck so it is higher than the hitching point of the frt truck. So towbar is in a downward direction to the ball. This way when the brakes are applied by the frt truck the rear trucks momentum will force wt to the rear wheels of the frt truck.
If it is mounted the other way then it will lift the rear wheels off the ground. Brakes will be a concern.

Another charateristic will be on turns and curvey roads. The rear truck wants to go straight, so
you will get a fishtail effect if too fast or not careful. If it's wet, it's real scary!!!!!!!!!

T case in neutral and make so steering wheel can turn on its own. Periodically you will have to correct steering wheel on rear vehicle to follow,
curbs and the like. Be careful. Usually the frt vehicle needs to be heavier than vehicle being towed for safety. If I HAD to do this I'd put alot of wt in the bed of the frt truck.

[markelectric]

I really hate to admit it but I was thinking of using the Dodge as the tow vehicle ( dually with manual trans ). I am real sure it is heavier than my GM products. The towbar I have made has sucessfully towed a couple of Tandem axle Internationals with no problem. The anticipated route is virtually all interstate only about a mile to the onramp and three off to home. The dodge came with a 115 gallon aux tank so should not need a fillup. If a cooler is packed correctly the only planned stops should be rest areas. Any other thoughts?

[turbobill]

I built a towbar to tow my 7200 lb '93 K3500 crew cab home from Florida after a catostrophic engine failure. As the truck had a plow frame on it, it gave me a good solid starting point to attach the towbar. I towed it with a U-Haul 14' one ton dual wheel Ford with 2500 lbs in the back. Didn't even know it was there except on the hills.

ALWAYS tow with the heavier vehicle. The heavier the better for stability. The dually Dodge should work fine. When towing on paved surfaces, the towed vehicle will follow fine. Leave the steering wheel unlocked. I disconnected the rear driveshaft as I towed for 1400 miles. Don't do any quick turning or lane change maneuvers. Get the feel of the combination at slower sppeeds first and make sure ALL tires are properly inflated. The Dodge brakes should stop you fine under normal circumstances. Leave plenty of following distance.

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

Be on the lookout for DOT. They probably won't mess with you, but