Gauge Instal instruction review please

[sturgeon-phish]

After several searches I compiled the information I could find on installing a pre turbo EGT, boost and transmission temperature gauge in my 96 2500. Please review these instructions and elaborate and correct where needed.

EGT Gauge
1. Drilling a small pilot hole first then using a sharp step drill (makes for small size chips and a large single STRAIGHT evacuation path). Typically, 11/32

[Hubert]

clipped

[QUOTE=sturgeon-phish]

Boost Gauge.
1. Remove boot from turbo to intake.
2. Stuff clean rag into intake beyond drill point.
3. Drill and tap intake inlet in the round portion midpoint from horn to point where it widens for intake facing firewall.
a. Typically, 11/32

[More Power]

I recommend installing the pyrometer in the crossover pipe a few inches below the driver's side exhaust manifold. I also recommend dropping the crossover pipe to do the drilling and welding of the fitting. This doesn't disturb or put at risk the cast iron manifolds, and eliminates any possibility of getting metal chips in the exhaust system pre-turbo.

A boost pressure tap can be installed anywhere in the aluminum intake plenum or manifold. Somewhere near the firewall facing side usually looks best and makes it easy to route the tubing.

As reported by others here in TDP, the factory 2WD 4L80-E pan was produced with a drain plug, which can then be replaced with a temp sensor. Some like to monitor the hot side of the ATF cooling lines, using a T in the line. I like the pan plug idea. :)

Jim

[jmpidgeo]

you don't need to remove the exhaust manifold to drill/tap for the pyrometer? at idle, is the turbo not spinning much or what?

[a5150nut]

you don't need to remove the exhaust manifold to drill/tap for the pyrometer? at idle, is the turbo not spinning much or what?

The idea here is the back presure will force chips out of drill site instead of falling into exaust system and on into the turbo.

[sturgeon-phish]

[QUOTE=More Power]I recommend installing the pyrometer in the crossover pipe a few inches below the driver's side exhaust manifold. I also recommend dropping the crossover pipe to do the drilling and welding of the fitting. This doesn't disturb or put at risk the cast iron manifolds, and eliminates any possibility of getting metal chips in the exhaust system pre-turbo.

I had not read or thought of using the crossover. That would relieve the worry of drilling the exhaust mainfold. Would I then need one of the band type probe holders like used for post turbo setups?

Although I have a 2WD, my trans pan is not tapped from the factory.

I really appreciate your reviews and help and look forward to more comments.
I plan on taking pictures of the whole endevor for future info.
Jim

[Hubert]

MHO I'd say get a weld bung put on then drill and tap. I'd think a muffler shop or other could weld it for cheap if you took it to them off. Some pyro probe kits come with the bung included. The crossover may build what ~ 15 psi pressure and a band type might leak. The down pipe really doesn't have that much pressure so a band type probe would be ok there.

[DickWells]

:) My son has done two rigs with the pre-turbo, engine idling, drill and tap method with no problems. A Cummins and a D-Max. But, if you would feel better staying post-turbo, then I can tell you that I did my old 95 Burb in the down-tube, and slept easy. You can count on just about 200 deg F less temp reading at any given time with that settup, but, that's easy to keep track of.
Looks like you are on the right track. I miss the old Burb. Can't bring myself to the point of selling it.
Good luck.
Dick

[sturgeon-phish]

As far as welding the bung on the crossover, does the bung come as a blank or is there a threaded bung?
I really appreciate the help I'm getting here.
Jim

[Shikaroka]

I recommend installing the pyrometer in the crossover pipe a few inches below the driver's side exhaust manifold. I also recommend dropping the crossover pipe to do the drilling and welding of the fitting. This doesn't disturb or put at risk the cast iron manifolds, and eliminates any possibility of getting metal chips in the exhaust system pre-turbo.



That's the first I have heard of this method.
This would still be considered "pre-turbo", right? Would you still go by the Pre-turbo figures as to what is safe?
I plan on installing my EGT probe soon and had settled on the manifold just under the turbo, but this method sounds easier and safer.
Did you do yours this way Jim?

[Hubert]

As far as welding the bung on the crossover, does the bung come as a blank or is there a threaded bung?
I really appreciate the help I'm getting here.
Jim


Most weld bungs I have seen are blanks. The distortion of welding would probably mess up threads or alignment???? And they are cheaper to make blanks. Lastly I guess bungs are generic and probe threads differ.

[sturgeon-phish]

That's the first I have heard of this method.
This would still be considered "pre-turbo", right? Would you still go by the Pre-turbo figures as to what is safe?
I plan on installing my EGT probe soon and had settled on the manifold just under the turbo, but this method sounds easier and safer.
Did you do yours this way Jim?

I believe I am going this route. It would still be considered pre-turbo so the temperature parameters would be the same. You are measuring the temp from the drivers side exhaust manifold instead of the passengers side. Putting the bung in the crossover "close" to the exhaust manifold would be the same. I do plan on taking lots of pictures with the instalation so when I do, I'll post them. The gauges came today, (thanks John!) but I'm not sure when I can get them in the truck. I'm thinking I may have a muffler shop drop the crossover and weld in the bung, tap it and reinstall the crossover because I don't have the welding equipment and I've heard the crossovers can be a pain to remove.
Jim

[Craig M]

Bung is an generic term. Weld a nipple onto the crossover pipe and then just thread your probe into the nipple. The nipple is much thicker than the crossover pipe so no significant distortion of the nipple should occur.

[sturgeon-phish]

Bung is an generic term. Weld a nipple onto the crossover pipe and then just thread your probe into the nipple. The nipple is much thicker than the crossover pipe so no significant distortion of the nipple should occur.
Are you saying that a regular pipe nipple would weld OK to the crossover pipe? I imagine black iron would be best. Talked with the guys at Jegs, and they did not have a 1/4" NPT bung so I'm looking for that piece to weld to the crossover.

Now, where can the paint be found to match the blue interior to paint the pillar? I called the dealer and they do not have a lead. What have you others done?
Thanks
Jim

[Hubert]

Try Autometerdotcom or what ever thier website is they had lots and lots of accessories for gauge installation. I'd think a steel bung made for intened use would be best the curve for pipe would be there and it would be easiest to weld on (also similar metal welds better). Other sources industrial houses hydraulic or tank accessories little things like this take longer to find and cost more to ship than they cost. A muffler shop might already have a piece of something to weld on for you. Nothing special about a bung its just material to add thickness for thread engagement.

I found plastic trim paint at Riely's - Autozone/Advanced/Pep Boys might have some. Mine is Gray interior and matched pretty easy. (I think Autometer has trim paint also)

Seems like I have read a stereo installation shop is a good sources of trim paint match.

[sailun]

SEM makes loads of colors for plastic. I used to have a detailing shop, we had quite a bit around.

Even painted carpets with it, to cover up where someone spilled the curry goat. No kidding, bright yellow-green on a brand new gray Camry carpet.

[bmp34]

How about doin a fuel pressure gauge? Anyone know about those? Also i just ordered my 3 gauge piller for Boost, Pyro, and Fuel Pressure, does anyone know where i can get all 3 gauges matched?

[Scooby]

My 96 2wd has no drain plug in the trans pan either (4LO80E). There is a plug in an oil passage on the drivers side of the trans that someone on here suggested using. That is what I did and it wokrs very well. I like to compare temps when under no load to those when loaded, so as to know how much the fluid is heating up. Use a synthetic like Amsoil to handle the higher temps when towing.

[Scooby]

Are you saying that a regular pipe nipple would weld OK to the crossover pipe? I imagine black iron would be best. Talked with the guys at Jegs, and they did not have a 1/4" NPT bung so I'm looking for that piece to weld to the crossover.

Now, where can the paint be found to match the blue interior to paint the pillar? I called the dealer and they do not have a lead. What have you others done?
Thanks
Jim

I found an interior paint at Advance Discount Auto that matched my 96 perfectly.

[sturgeon-phish]

Scooby, do you remember to hole size that was in the transmission for the probe?
Cleared out the garage to park the truck so I hope to start on the gauges this weekend. I'm finishing 7 straight 12 hour shifts at work so looking forward to some time off.
Still getting all parts and pieces for the instalation. I've got the fitting to weld in for the the EGT in the crossover. And ran around looking for the trim paint because I want to paint the piller before I put it in.
Thanks again!
Jim

[Scooby]

Hadnt seen the ?? The hole for the sensor is 1/8 pipe thread, just like most temp sensors.

[Robyn]

Considering the damage that any little pieces of debris can do to the turbine wheel I would agree 100% with Jim.
Yank the crossover off and do the work on the drivers side just below the manifold.

The weld bungs can even be home made. Take a piece of 3/4" Hot roll steel round about 1/2" thick and weld it to the pipe then drill and tap it for your sensor to screw into.

The issue with doing anything to the pipes or manifolds on the rig is thqat even a dislodged chunk of carbon can become a lethal missile if it hits the turbine at velocity.

I would also consider the option of using an aftermarket crossover pipe to get rid of all the wrinkles and such from the stock pipe.

I have heard that some of the stock crosovers have even had the inner pipe buckle and obstruct the flow.

The port for the boost gauge can be tapped into the air hat , ORRRRRRRRRR there is a special bolt available that you can replace the rear bolt on top of the air hat with. This bolt has a small hole drilled through and crossdrilled into the plenum. There is fitting on top to tap into for the boost gauge. Very sweet little idea.

If you have access to a lathe a stock bolt can be drilled and tapped very easily and you dont have to disturb the air hat and stuff on the top of the engine.

Just some thoughts

Robyn

[More Power]

More info here: http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=27439

Jim

[Artworks]

Robyn, where can I get the special bolt for the intake?? I just recently installed 3 gauges, got pyro and trans temp hooled up but I have bin ptting off pulling the intake to drill and tap the boost. The special bolt sounds like a whole lot less work. Thanks

[sturgeon-phish]

The upper mainifold comes off easily. Remove the band clamp from the turbo to the intake and the aligning rod. Slide the rubber boot off the end ofd the turbo; may need to twist it a little. Unbolt and carefully remove the gasket. I was able to re-use the gasket. Drill and tap. Clean out the burrs and thread in the fitting.
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p81/sturgeon-phish/Truck/000_0004-5.jpg
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p81/sturgeon-phish/Truck/000_0016-4.jpg
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p81/sturgeon-phish/Truck/000_0015-5.jpg
Reverse the assembly and torque to 17 ft/lbs

[Artworks]

Good Pics. Thanks. I may do mine this weekend

[sturgeon-phish]

I took a bunch of pictures of my installation if you would like more pictures
Jim

[Shikaroka]

Does it matter where you put the tap for the boost gauge? Is any place better then another?

[JohnC]

Does it matter where you put the tap for the boost gauge? Is any place better then another?

If you put it in a narrow passage, like the picture above, you'll get a lower reading than if you put it in the open part of the manifold. Not that it really matters...

[Scooby]

While you have the upper half of the manifold off, it would be a good time to take a rotary burr and clean up all the overhanging web pieces inside. It sure makes it flow a lot easier. I also made a blank plate to cover the spot where the EGR valve USED to be. That also helps keep the intake cleaner. I dont think these computers do an EGR test like the gassers do, cause I never got a code with the EGR off, and I did that before going to Mr. Heaths computer.