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View Full Version : -12F start this morning...



Mark Rinker
02-04-2007, 11:49
I am not proud of this, but due to unforseen circumstances and poor planning on my part (long story) had to ask my 2001 to start this morning at -12F with no block heat overnight.

Cycled the key and Wait To Start light three times before engaging the starter. 5 full seconds of slow but strong cranking ensued (Optima Red Tops) and she popped right off.

My eyes were riveted to the oil pressure gauge. A sickening 10 seconds went by before the needle even moved from 0. Even then, then journey from 0 to 60psi took another 15 seconds or so.

I have left it idling and warming slowly for about 1 hour, will return to take care of business and head for KCMO today, 10K in tow.

Today the winter front stays on, regardless of the load...will watch tranny and water temp gauges carefully but doubt they'll complain any.

Kennedy
02-04-2007, 11:59
Treat up your fuel heavy, and carry a bottle of FPPF Meltdown and spare filter(s) to be safe...

Mark Rinker
02-04-2007, 12:38
Roger that. I just fueled up, doubling up on FPPF. Spare filter and wrench behind the seat.

Kennedy
02-04-2007, 19:27
I'm not sure what the deal is with my storage tank this year, but it sure doesn't want to flow. Last year (different supplier) was great. This year I'm clouding, plugging filters etc.

Thankfully all the plugging is happening on my delivery filter and not the vehicle. I see now why stations don't use filters on their pumps.

beeler
02-05-2007, 13:19
What are you running for oil Mark? Mine gets started at least a couple times a year in similar or colder temps. With Ams Oil HD 15-40 it builds pressure only slightly slower than in the summer. Starter spins it better too.

dieseldummy
02-05-2007, 13:41
I had a similar cold start experience recently... Couldn't plug in because my outlet was under a 6' snow drift. The slow building of oil psi cause the message center to illuminate. I think I've made the desicion to run synthetic next winter... I only let the GP's cycle once and it still started nicely though.

justforme
02-05-2007, 15:30
i've started all three of my trucks at camp without a problem.
the 01 wasn't happy below -10

MaxACL
02-05-2007, 17:15
Mark,

I started mine several times last week while in AB and BC with out a heater. It cranked right up but it sounded like an armadillo in heat. The oil pressure came right up normally (Shell Rotella 5w-40 syn).

In hindsight I'm thinking about bolting down a little Honda generator in the bed next year for those times when I'm caught out with no electricity. That engine is tougher than an ugly female Israeli Marine DI.

Mike

MaxACL
02-05-2007, 17:34
Mark,

By the way, I noticed that while at idle the temp would drop to almost cccccold. If I stoped for half an hour the cab would get colder than my ex-wife. After driving, everything was fine (with the truck). This is with and without the front cover.

Your thoughts?

Mike

kerryw
02-05-2007, 19:46
have only pluged my duramax in twice run extra fuel filter on truck buy my fuel in bulk and pre filter into the truck . run 5-40 syn oil ,never had problem starting and -30 celcius takes longer to heat the seats never a problem with fuel or starting running original batteriies from 02 .:D

beeler
02-05-2007, 21:57
"sounded like an armadillo in heat"

I've got to watch Animal Planet more often.

Mark Rinker
02-06-2007, 08:19
The start I described was with Mobil Delvac 5-40. The slow oil pressure response could actually be the gauge and/or sender warming up as well. Not sure how accurate they are in cold like this.

JK - I made it fine from Minneapolis to Des Moines, and promptly plugged a filter after refilling at Flying J and treating heavy with FPPF. New filter, and all was well.

MaxACL - As for the engine temp dropping problem, I'd look at the obvious thermostat and coolant overflow tank cap replacement first. Cheap and likely culprits. If it repeats, or especially if you start using coolant you might have bigger issues like head gasket or injector cup seal causing air in the cooling system. I am dealing with that on my 2001 right now, jury is still out on the cause. Its looking like something internal as I can't find an external source, and the waterpump is new. Also, could be your waterpump my 2002 did the same thing you describe and the waterpump was leaking and is being replaced today.

Kennedy
02-06-2007, 08:40
JK - I made it fine from Minneapolis to Des Moines, and promptly plugged a filter after refilling at Flying J and treating heavy with FPPF. New filter, and all was well.



How long after fill up did it quit? Were the storage tanks above or below ground?

Seems to be common. Some say the ULSD doesn't take the cold as well. I do know that the either the actual and/or allowable water content has increased dramatically.

Essentially, what worked for me last year is not working this year with the variable being the supplier, but both orders were for Amoco/Standard/BP Premier #2 clear.

precision37
02-06-2007, 14:39
As for the truck cooling down, these engines don't produce much heat at idle. That's why they have a high idle feature, to warm up the engine in cold temps. I can watch the temp drop at stop lights in the winter. Try a winter cover on the front of the truck. It'll heat up much faster and stay warmer. I have a manual trans, so no extra heat comes from an auto tranny through the radiator and on sub zero mornings it may never get up to normal operating temp., even after 20 minutes at highway speeds.
With a cover on the front it warms right up.

Mark Rinker
02-06-2007, 16:16
JK - I went less than 60 miles before loading up the filter, after 300 miles with no issues. Used 2x recommeded FPPF since it was so severely cold, to no avail. Idled and slept for 3 hours until I found a place open in the AM to pull in and use a filter wrench. It would flow enough to make about 30mph, and idled fine.

Storage tanks were below ground - although I did fill from the RV island rather than the semi islands so I didn't have to fight the high-speed nozzles. Might have gotten fuel from a tank that doesn't see much turnover.

Had the spare filter, but haven't found a wrench I like to throw behind the seat yet. Suggestions?

kerryw
02-06-2007, 20:58
with the new fuel changes ,do they alow more water in canada same water as befor less sulfur but gelling fuel very seldom a problem unless you fill up with summer fuel.

Kennedy
02-07-2007, 08:29
I've been battling plugged filters on my storage tank and think I might be onto something. I borrowed the nitrous bottle heater from my 2002 and wrapped it on my filter. After it was warmed thoroughly I started the pump and it flowed fine for a couple tenths and then slowed to a crawl. It's been loading filters all fall/winter. Fuel has been cloudy and murky. Once it warms up it clears so we are at the cloud point.


There is absolutely no reason for this. The fuel is well treated, the vent is covered by a dessicant breather, and the fuel is SUPPOSED to be Amoco Premier #2 clear winterized. I ran Amoco Premier #2 clear non winterized last year and even had a couple percent Bio in it.


My guess is that I got a bad batch of fuel. I've consumed numerous filters so far (circulating drain to fill port) chasing this beast and I think in reality the filters were/are just fine and simply needed to be warmed. Other Total Power users (except Mark and Buck) that I have talked to have had no problems with the same old random fuel stops. It may well be that we cannot take #2 down below 0

Mark Rinker
02-07-2007, 10:45
JK - read my post under the Member's area regarding the same fuel, with winter additive treatment left in the same truck's storage tank. This sounds exactly like what you are seeing in yours.

Also - can someone explain cloud point? How does this relate to gelling? If there is liquid fuel in the filter housing, what is clogging the filter - ice, gel, or what???

SoTxPollock
02-07-2007, 12:34
I wasnn't logged in, but saw your question about cloud point.
Petroleum oils, when cooled, may become plastic solids as a result either of partial spearation of wax or of congealing of the hydrocarbon composition. When that separation becomes visible it is very close to the solidification point. The congealing is what we commonly refer to as gelling. The additives or blending of kerosene will lower the pour point to where it can still flow, it may still look cloudy, but won't so easily solidify. Solidification is what plugs the filter, i.e. the heating of the filter helps to get it flowing again. The problem with that is of course a constant supply of heat. I thought your truck would have had a fuel heater that should be heating the filter at that temperature. It must not be working.

Kennedy
02-07-2007, 13:21
2 more bottles of Total Power, 30 galons K1 (10%) 100,000 btu heater, nitrous bottle heater on my filter and we'll see what happens...


Last year I STARTED with 35 gallons B100 in a frozen clump at the bottom of my tank and added 500 gallons #2 Premier NON winterized and my FPPF. Did the same heating ritual to thaw the bio and once we were liquid I had clear running fuel all winter. I set a sample outside at -15

TheJDMan
02-07-2007, 15:34
What is FPPF? I have been using the Howes but here in VA it is not that big an issue. I will be traveling to the midwest next week and the plan is to treat my fuel before leaving here and keep it treated during the trip.

EdHale
02-07-2007, 16:56
All of the low temps you all are talking about makes me cold. It is 65 degrees right now here in Georgia. Ed

Ramster21
04-07-2007, 23:29
I don't plug in, unless the forcast is for -20 or colder.
No problem starting, even when being surprised by -28 in the morning.
According to the manual, it's supposed to be safe to -25.
I do sometimes plug in at -15.
Oh well, that's what warrantys are for:D