Engine/Injector Trouble

[tjpipkens]

Same thing as everyone else, I just have a couple additional ??? I'd like to get answered. I drove for about 6 weeks with some reduction in power (only once in a while) and then finally the check engine light went on and it would barely make enough power to get up a small hill on the highway.
My concern is that I've been driving for the past couple of months ruining the engine. If I have been filling the crankcase up with oil for two months and driving, I am concerned I will have scuffed cylinders/bearings and just trashing the engine. They will not care about this because they will just fix the problem and get me on the road. I am worried in 10000 miles when I'm out of warranty I blow an engine or something due to these problems. I am running mobil one 10-30 for the winter. Is this too light? What should my oil change interval be with this oil? Should I ask the dealer if they found fuel in the oil. I am concerned they will not give me the whole story.
COULD I HAVE DONE PERMANENT ENGINE DAMAGE????
Thanks

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome to the Forums!

What year/model are we talking about here? What is the 8th digit of the VIN? How many miles?

Are you sure it's injector(s) causing your problem? If your crankcase is filling with oil, you will know it. Especially if it's been 6 weeks. The oil level will be overfull. Check very carefully because more fuel in the oil makes it hard to read on the dipstick. If it's not, or close to your regular level, there won't be enough fuel in the oil to cause damage over that period. A plugged fuel filter, among other more simple things, will also cause the symptoms you describe. If you've been having limp mode off/on, the SES lamp should be on, which means a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) will be stored and will point to the reason for limp mode. While the injectors are failing, they don't always cause a DTC and SES lamp. If the SES is on, or has been on, you may get a chain auto parts store to read the codes for you for free. If not, a good code reader is a worthwhile investment which could save you trips to the dealer.

My suggestion at this point is check the oil level, and if it's OK, change the fuel filter and try to repeat the conditions. GM's recommended filter life is 15K miles, but I've seen them plug up after just a couple thousand. It all depends on fuel quality.

Another comment that gets my attention is the 10-30 oil. I could be wrong, but I don't think M-1 has a 10-30 oil rated for your engine. This is very important. Look at the API rating on the label. It must show CH-4, CI-4, or CI-4+. Without this rating, the oil is not formulated to be used in modern Diesel engines. It may show CG-4, but that rating is outdated for many years (minimal requirements for limited Diesel use). More common Diesel rated oil viscocities are 15-40, 5-40, 0-40, 5-30, and 0-30. M-1 is good oil, but it must be the right stuff.

[tjpipkens]

The 8th digit is a 1. The truck has 90000 miles on it. I think you are right about the oil. I am concerned with this. I was recommended this and it is the automotive Mobil One. There is no CI or CH rating. What could I have screwed up for the past 7000 miles?
Also, fuel quality is probably poor where I live. I know you are supposed to fill up at high volume truck stops but I don't have that option very often. Should I be changing the filter more often?
Another thing, I drive to work only 1 mile each way in this truck. It usually sees some longer trips on the weekends but is this very bad for it? I think it usually goes around 3 weeks or a bit more between fillups.
Thank you for the help

[DmaxMaverick]

Very good. I think you need to rule out the filter first. What was your oil level?

90K isn't too many miles. If the injectors haven't been replaced, the likelyhood they will be is pretty high. Be sure to watch for symptoms very closely before your warranty runs out. The warranty is 7 years or 200K. If your truck is a 2001, it's getting close.

The one mile commute is a killer. Unless you allow for a real good warm up and run it moderately hard, the engine, seals and other components don't get up to operating temp. Your oil is really taxed if it isn't up to temp and allowed to dry out (moisture is present from condensation inside the engine as it cools). The additive package is engineered to be most effective at operating temp. The oil can degrade much sooner under your conditions, so you may consider shorter change intervals. Your choice to use a good synthetic is in the right direction, but using the correct rating is important, especially under your driving conditions. Don't worry about damage over 7000 miles with the M-1, just get the right stuff in there at your soonest convenience. Most, if not all, M-1 synthetics are rated SJ/CF. CF is OK for some Diesel applications, but the label should state the oil is designed for gasoline engines. I ran my '85 6.2L Blazer over 250K with CF oil, but it's a different animal and the conditions were different.

Using questionable fuel sources can cause premature filter problems. Bad fuel sitting in the tank for long periods will only get worse. There's no serious problem with it, just stay on top of your filter (carry spares and tools to change) and use a quality additive to keep it dry and free of biologicals. If you see yourself continuing this situation, consider additional fuel filtration. Many TDP Advertisers (http://www.thedieselpage.com/vendors/main.htm) have several options available.

You still need to pull any codes to confirm you don't have other electronic issues.