Did I get SCREWED!!

[srf_58]

I made an earlier post but now I have talked to the previos owner I found out a lot of info.
I just bought a 94 1 ton 6.5L. When I got it, and got it home the next morning it was very hard to start, but I did get it to start. I ask the previous owner and he said that he had a new fuel pump and batteries installed in July and when he got it back it was hard to start. He said that it was not hard to start when he took it in for the fuel pump. I have sence found out that there were not new battiers installed in July.

So this is what I know to be true: It is very hard to start, it will kill my batteries trying to crank it on a 25degree morning, but I can get it to start and when it does start is has a loud clattering for just a few seconds and smokes alot for the same amount of time. I have also found out when I cycle the swicth after I try to start, it seems to start faster. I will turn on swicth wait for glow plug light to go out, then crank on it for a few seconds, turn swicth off and do it again. This method works better than just crank and crank without re-cycleing the swicth.
The glow plug relay is clicking but no power to the plugs.

What should I do: battiers for sure, then=
Thanks for everybodies help, sorry for the long post.
Kyle

[JohnC]

... I will turn on swicth wait for glow plug light to go out, then crank on it for a few seconds, turn swicth off and do it again. ...

The glow plug relay is clicking but no power to the plugs.


If the light comes on that means the glow plug relay is working. There is a fusable link in each bank of glowplugs. Figure out what's going on with the glow plugs and you may not need new batteries.

[chickenhunterbob]

I read your previous post, and offer what may or may not be of any use to you.

I see that you have had a recent IP replecement in a 1994 model 6.5 TD with around 84K miles on it.

It is possible, just ever so slightly that you may need a new PROM chip to accompany that pump.

If the pump that came off was the original, which with that mileage is somewhat possible, then perhaps you have had a 5067 or 5068 model pump replaced with a 5521 (newer) model.

I seem to recall that when certain older pumps were replaced (early models, not sure what years but 94 for certain) it is also necessary to replace the PROM.

Hopefully someone with a little more experience can suggest whether or not this may be something for you to check.

[gmctd]

Correct, chbob - Kyle, post the DS4-XXX-XXXX number on the blue Stanadyne label, upper rear vertical surface of the IP, facing the intake manifold.

You'll need a small mirror to see it, but it is more than a little important, at this stage.

2500 is 3/4ton, 3500 is 1ton

[xtrempickup]

sounds like mine, but with a double battery mine even with no glow plugs working and a bad lift pump sounded like yours and would start after a min of cranking, but since replacing the glow plugs, it fires right up that temp or colder. I also replaced my LP and i would suggest checking your glow plugs also. if you have a block heater, plug that in, mine would start a lot easier with it plugged in when the glow plugs were shot. i would check the LP, OPS and plug it in if you cant verify the glow plugs are good

[srf_58]

First of all, Thanks to everyone helping me out!

I changed the battiers because they were bad (one was not doing anything at all) checked my cables and then checked the amps at everyglow plug. The amps were 10.5-11.7, the amps for the glow plug relay was 110 amps. I found one of the glow plugs on the passenger side not working due to a broke wire. This has made it better but not as good as it should be. Any more help would be great. I am going to get the number off the IP today.
What is and where is the PRO. chip.
Thanks Kyle

[Robyn]

Hello and welcome

First off sounds like you have fixed one major issue.
I would yank out the injectors and take them in and have them tested.

If the injectors, are not spraying right or the "POP" pressure is too low these little critters can be real balky to start when cold.

Its a tad bit of a job to remove the injectors but worth your time.
You can get a kit from the diesel supply house that has all the return hoses as well as the end plugs for injectors 7 & 8

I would yank out the units on the drivers side first and see how they test.
if this is a high mile engine its almost a sure thing the injectors are tired.

Use compressed air to blow off the head around the injectors before you loosen anything up.
Many times little stones and other nasty stuff can accumulate around the injectors and if not removed will drop into the hole.

If the drivers side injectors are bad the other side will need to come off too.
The turbo side of the engine can be a challenge but its doable.

Please save yourself loads of greif and buy a socket designed to remove the injectors.

Give it a go and let us know what you find.

Robyn