Intercooler temps

[sturgeon-phish]

Messing with an idea of intercooler installation piping and I need to know the temps that would typically be seen in the piping from the turbo to the intercooler and from the intercooler to the intake.
Thanks
Jim

[gmctd]

250-350 deg compressor-side, higher dependent on proximity to exhaust manifold.

0-230deg engine-side - maybe higher if close to exhaust manifold - dependent on ambient temps, prop-wash, and engine bay heat.

Best to match ducting to compressor outlet and intake plenum where real-estate is limited, use silicone rubber expansion tubing - available commercially - at the charge-air cooler, but no need to use larger diameter piping than the 'cooler inlet\outlet size

[Slim shady]

Are you talking compressor outlet temp and intake air temp inside the intercooler pipes.

Or are you talking engine and exhaust temps under the hood?

I made an intercooler for my 95 that only uses two bolts to attach it to the truck. No cutting wires or heavy mods and no remount of the turbo, you can use the stock air box also if you like.

I see not more than 10 degrees intake air temp over ambient temps (ON the Highway) on long grades with the waste gate shut completely. The intercooler pipe is all three inch pipe from the turbo to the intake. The intercooler is a three core model.

IT is not a hack install, I wanted something that looked good. It should also fit the Suburban. I wanted an intercooler but didn't want to pay the big dollar. I did mine for less than 500.00 retail cost of the parts, didn't include my research and development time for a few other parts but it was for me anyway.

I would like to make it available in a kit for a reasonable amount but have not had time to entertain it. I don't want to get rich I just want to live comfortably.

NOTE, I have not tested the intercooler on a 90 degree day so ambient intake air temps after the intercooler will probably exceed the amount stated above. The highest ambient temp tested was a 70 degree day with the truck doing a moderate boost of 12 psi. The intercooler will also accumulate heat over time as the intercooler parts all reach a temp saturation point, this was taken into consideration with the install.

I also have not tested pressure drop across the intercooler core, a three inch pipe will make up for the pressure loss with more air flow. I would rather have 2 psi on a three inch pipe than 3 psi on a 2.5 inch pipe, that is why we go to the larger exhaust pipes on our trucks, less back pressure with more area to flow the exhaust gas.

I am not an engineer so please do not argue the facts with me. I left that up to my brother who is an engineer, he reluctantly helped with some of the design however he was worried about the drag coefficient of the intercooler, added weight, and if that would negate the benefits of the project.

[sturgeon-phish]

The temp of air leaving the turbo primarly as this would be the hottest I imagine. Could you post a pic of your setup?
Thanks
Jim

[Slim shady]

I have in the summer and prior to the Intercooler, had up to 230 degree air temps in the intake on a 80 degree F day. This was measured with the scanner at the time of boost. The average running temp at 4 psi boost was between 100 and 120 degree F.

Yesterday I was out and the intake air temp never went over 32 degree F, granted it was 28 degree F ambient temp at the time. I was having a little fun trying out an electronic boost limiter that I just finished.

As far as the pictures, I have only sent pictures to one person, I wanted to see if they were interested in marketing it. I spoke with them and they said they may be interested.

Can't blame a poor guy for trying!

[65TD]

Pre IC temps are the same with or without an IC and can and do exceed 300F.

So the post IC temps will be determined by the size and location of the IC as well as it's design.

[Slim shady]

I stand corrected.

I did not clarify that the 32 degree intake temp was after the intercooler, not on the compressor side.

The intake temps prior to the intercooler will always remain higher. The intake temps I quoted at 200 degree and 100 to 120 with 4psi boost were intake air temps without an intercooler and I didn't clarify that important fact.

I can tell you that since the intercooler I have never had over ten degree F above ambient air temp after the intercooler. However like I said before I have yet to run it on a 90 plus day. These temps are also at highway speed, the intercooler has no way of moving air though it (yet) when sitting still, which is in the works.

[sturgeon-phish]

Thanks for the data. Hope your IC development works for you.
Jim

[Slim shady]

If the venture does not work out, I will post the pictures and a parts list of what is needed. It won't be long before I know.

[65TD]

You might want to insulate the pipes from the IC to the intake from engine, radiator hot air, or exhaust heat.

[1999GMC]

Here are some pics of my install. It was easy and was about $500 and works sweet. 100 degrees outside and I was seeing 113 towing 8000 lbs. and only got to 143 going uphill for 2 miles on a 5-6% grade. Before intercooler I was almost 200 on flat ground and 304 was highest I saw on a long grade. It dropped the EGT a easy 150 degrees.

[Slim shady]

I like the way you think. I will post my pictures also. I just don't have the time to fool with these people. One time they are interested and the next time they don't know. Guess I was foolish thinking that I might get something for my thoughts.

Where did you get the intake adapter? I also routed my pipes through the fender well. I did however make a holder for the intercooler that has aintake scope on it. I guess there really are no new ideas. Nice install

[Slim shady]

Here is the link to the pics of my intecooler. They can be zoomed to see details.

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=2

[TurboDiverArt]

Messing with an idea of intercooler installation piping and I need to know the temps that would typically be seen in the piping from the turbo to the intercooler and from the intercooler to the intake.
Thanks
Jim
Do a search. Many of us have made our own intercoolers, written it up and posted pictures. If you have access to a welder and can weld aluminum tubing you want save a lot of the cost. Probably half of the cost of my intercooler was silicone hoses. I can weld aluminum but I was just being lazy! Total cost $450-$500. If I had to do it again I would buy a 3" import piping kit with silicone hoses for $90 and weld the tubing. Also, I fabricated my own upper because I didn't realize that a marine upper was available. This is shown in one of the pictures below. I think you can get them for like $50-75 from Peninsular Diesel.

I have towed the same hills in the heat towing my racecar before the intercooler install and after. It

[sturgeon-phish]

Very Nice work. Just goes to show what can be done. The marine adapter by Pennisular is an asset.
I understand re-couping development costs, but when I see intercooler installations, the going price for off the shelf kits seems high. If someone would market an intercooler for around $800, I think they would have a lot of business.
Thanks for the pictures and information.
Jim

[Slim shady]

Very Nice work. Just goes to show what can be done. The marine adapter by Pennisular is an asset.
I understand re-couping development costs, but when I see intercooler installations, the going price for off the shelf kits seems high. If someone would market an intercooler for around $800, I think they would have a lot of business.
Thanks for the pictures and information.
Jim

JIM
The cost to mass produce a kit after the intial development is no where near the retail cost. I suspect that 200 percent or higher mark up after the manufacture cost is normal for a MASS produced kit. You then need to recoupe initial start up cost and everything else to advertise and market it before you make a dime.

The kit I was trying to market could be sold retail for that amount and still leave someone a reasonable profit. So how about we get a few people and make our own kit. Looks like a lot of us think alike.I think even the Suburban guys might want in.

[xtrempickup]

Nice to know it can be done, Soo Much long pipe tho, any way to make a Top mount IC for the 6.5L and just get a cowl hood that can suck in the cold air. I have a car with long pipe and it took me a long time to get all the T-bolts tight and set so it doesnt pop the pipes out of the couplers. is there a way to hook up a BOV so that the system can vent? i didnt see anything to use as a source of vacuum for the BOV

[atom_c]

I very gently flared each of my intercooler pipe ends slightly with a pair of pliers. I hope this gives the clamps a little more to bite onto. I have not had a silicone coupler blow off yet, but I am only running up to 11 pounds boost, so I will have to wait and see what happens when I up the boost a couple more pounds.

[1999GMC]

I've had no issues and I am at 15 when towing uphill. I thought about putting kits together and selling them for $700 or so but then figured I didn't need the people telling me they could make it for $500 or less. Just didn't want the hassle.

[sturgeon-phish]

From other posts I remember something about the airflow through the radiator and past the engine being disrupted by hood mounted air scoops and the like cause overheating. One friend has a Mini Cooper and another has a STI and both have hood intake intercoolers. The scoop on the STI looks right out of the '70's. It makes sense from simplicity to keep the pipes short. What about a top mounted intercooler that was sealed against the underside of the hood, like the hemi cudar hoods to prevent the radiator air flow issue, but have a air current path that would enter in front, go through the intercooler then exit. The amount of intercooler surface area exposed to the air current may be an issue so angle/depth/room comes into play. I don't know if the high pressure area at the base of the windshield would be a good exit port, but maybe vented down one or both sides of the motor. This would keep the high pressure high temperature piping to a minimum. High pressure air from the turbo go directly to a top mounted intercooler which is bolted directly to the intake. The cooling air would be low temp and low pressure go through the intercooler then vent. HUMMMMM?????

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
The best place for an IC (in my humble opinion) is on the bottom. Even with the extra plumbing. Remember heat rises, if you are running around town with allot of stop and go, a top mounted IC could become a interheater! Also remember that the air flow on top of the hood is anything but regular at different speeds. Try this some calm day, take about 30 strips of 1inch ribbon about 4-5inches long and tape them to your hood in different places. Tape them on one end so that they can flop around in the breeze. Now when you drive down the road you can see what the air is doing on top of your hood. I think the idea of a scoop on a under mount IC is maybe the best. Air temps at ground level are normally cooler. There have also been some people that built Water cooled ICs. I had all stuff to do one but it started to become a REAL project so I went with a air-air model. I run about 15-17 PSImax and have never blown a hose. I rough sanded and belled the ends of all my pipes, clamped them, ran it for a couple days and then retightened all clamps. The key is retightening and use GOOD constant pressure spring clamps. Also make sure all surfaces are clean and dry. I am not sure why the gassers normally use a top mounted air-air but O know all the big trucks either have it in front of the rad or down low, I've never seen one on top.
Hope this helps!
L8r
Conley

[TurboDiverArt]

Initially after I installed my intercooler I ran around with 16psi. I did this partially because that's where it was set with the boost fooler and also because if it was going to blow off I wanted it to happen when I knew I was not 500 miles from home. I ran it for a day, got it nice and hot on the highway and then retightened the next day. I rechecked it about a month later and no more retightening was needed. I did not bevel my pipes. I bought them from IntakeHoses.com. The aluminum pipes are nice and thick and take and maximum tightness the T-bolts I used can take. I also have a custom made intercooler on my racecar. I also used silicon hoses and aluminum piping from IntakeHoses. I'm running 30psi of boost to an engine producing 1100HP and have never blown a clamp off. I did burst a black rubber hose on the cold side once but the clamp held, now I use all silicone. Again, pipes are not beveled. You only need to bevel them if you have thinner piping and cannot clamp it down real tight. I can't speak for the cheaper tubing on eBay but the stuff that Charlie at IntakeHoses.com sells is plenty thick and can take whatever you can throw at it.

The key to making the intercooler work is airflow. If you do a lot of off roading then having it on the underbelly of the truck is not the right choice. Also possibly if you drive in deep snow, snows not the problem really but the ice is. The intercoolers are pretty tough. When it comes to cooling size matters unless you have a super efficient core. Efficiency costs money. An extruded tube or tube in fin core is expensive. The ones you see selling for under $200 on eBay are generally bar and plate designs. Generally heavier but much cheaper to produce. I modeled mine after the one Kent put together. I didn't gather data but he did. His intercooler is slightly smaller than the one I used. Both are 12" high by 24" wide cores (fits perfect under the bumper). Kent's is 3" thick, mine is 4". Kent when testing under load (like 6000-7000 lbs) on a grade registered turbo temps of about 350 F if memory serves. Those temps are posted somewhere in the archives. Up a grade with his foot to the floor the EGT's never passed 800 degrees post turbo and his inlet temps went up to about 132F after standing on it while towing a heavy trailer up a steep grade to a speed of 88 MPH. He just ran out of room and 88 was pretty fast. He tried repeatedly to try to get the temps up there but it just never went above about 130. Prior to the test Kent tried to heat soak the intercooler to make sure the engine and intercooler were warm to start with.

I think if you used an under-hood design it's going to need to be wide and high because you will not be able to get the depth to clear under the hood. I also think insulating it from the engine heat is going to be a problem. I run 195 stats so I can get the efficiency of a hotter engine. Prior to the intercooler I had to really watch things, as the turbo would be spitting 300+ degree boost into the engine and the engine temps and EGT's could climb very quickly. With the intercooler things just don't get as hot. Seems that even though the engine temp will go up on a long grade the cooling system is able to cope and bring it down because the inlet temps are not as hot and the EGT's are under control. My fan clutch kicks on significantly less with the intercooler installed than before. On a flat road it never kicks in, even with the A/C blasting.

Art.

[Slim shady]

TurboDivertart
I think you are correct:the intercooler would heat soak under the hood and lose its efficiency. I believe it is easier to make hot air rise then to duct it down.

I was going to use a water cooled intercooler but decided against it. Two reasons, first was plumbing and second was the water itself. Water has a great potential for heat absorption. Now we have the problem, getting the heat out of the water and back in the air. I found it hard to get the same heat dissipation from a air/water unit as an air/air unit because of the cumulative heat build up with water.

I am sure someone will quote the drag car guys and say the water units are more efficient. They are initially and when used for short runs (with iced water) but as I said the draw back is the water's heat saturation point. On a 90 degree day you can be running your compressor side air through a intercooler with 120 degree water temps. Cooling the air charge temp? yes, but cooling it with 120 degree water not 90 degree air.

AIR movement is the key: high speed air through the intercooler with a scoop down low was the most efficient at (highway speed).

[TurboDiverArt]

TurboDivertart
I think you are correct:the intercooler would heat soak under the hood and lose its efficiency. I believe it is easier to make hot air rise then to duct it down.

I was going to use a water cooled intercooler but decided against it. Two reasons, first was plumbing and second was the water itself. Water has a great potential for heat absorption. Now we have the problem, getting the heat out of the water and back in the air. I found it hard to get the same heat dissipation from a air/water unit as an air/air unit because of the cumulative heat build up with water.

I am sure someone will quote the drag car guys and say the water units are more efficient. They are initially and when used for short runs (with iced water) but as I said the draw back is the water's heat saturation point. On a 90 degree day you can be running your compressor side air through a intercooler with 120 degree water temps. Cooling the air charge temp? yes, but cooling it with 120 degree water not 90 degree air.

AIR movement is the key: high speed air through the intercooler with a scoop down low was the most efficient at (highway speed).
You're correct about the water intercoolers. Lots of the guys I race with have water-cooled intercoolers. They change out most of the water between rounds. Water coolers are nice because they are smaller but for long hauling they don't work well in a small form factor. Water-cooled is the only way to have MAT temps below ambient. Great for drag racing, bad for long towing.

All I can say is that unless you drive your truck where the intercooler may contact something like a stump just put it under the bumper and be done with it. I've had mine for more than a year now I think and I

[Slim shady]

[QUOTE=TurboDiverArt]You're correct about the water intercoolers. Lots of the guys I race with have water-cooled intercoolers. They change out most of the water between rounds. Water coolers are nice because they are smaller but for long hauling they don't work well in a small form factor. Water-cooled is the only way to have MAT temps below ambient. Great for drag racing, bad for long towing.

All I can say is that unless you drive your truck where the intercooler may contact something like a stump just put it under the bumper and be done with it. I've had mine for more than a year now I think and I

[lfytsmith]

TurboDiverArt, you suggested a place to purchase quality tubing, What about the core? Did you post your pics? Thanks for the insight into blue collar intercooling. I didn't think I could afford it.

[xtrempickup]

i read all about the intercoolers here , but nothing about relieving the pressure through a Blow Off Valve ( BOV). I guess nobody runs it or can't run one on these. maybe i'm blind, but no vacuum source like on a Gas that I can find to use for a BOV. I like Bov's because not only does the IC keep temps down, The Bov does also by venting the hot air and also keeping the turbo from surging. I dont know if diesel's suffer like a gas does, but its worth hearing the can or can't and why

[gmctd]

If you decide to install a throttle plate on your 6.5, you will need the BOV.........

[redbird2]

I install a setuo modeled after TurboDiverArts, I picked up a cooler on e-bay, I was last year I think in ran me $145.00 12x4x23 with 3" pipes i've never been one to under do anything. However in this case I should have went with advice of others and went with the 2.5" pipe makes routing easier, I manufactured a plate to go on top of my intake with 3" pipe coming directly out of the center, I then add a mounting for the for the boost sensor which is mounted to the plate with stock mounting bolts, the temp sensor is mounted in the air inlet piping just welded a pipe coupler in the side of the pipe. everthing is close to its stock location so no wires had to be extended. I mounted my cooler under the front of the truck between the frame rails it took me maybe 6-8 hours total to mount everthing i can be done faster however I wanted mine to looks as if it came factory stock so I fussed around with it a lotmake sure there are no place it can rub.
I would have taken some pictures to post however I pulled all the pipe of recently and the intake plate and they are getting powder coated the same color as my truck no reason to do this other than I wanted to.

as for temps it made a huge improvement to my truck, I pull a 20' livestock trailer, before install I could easily reach 1400+ on hard pull up long grades would have to get out of throttle slow down gasser would pass me. however after the install I can keep my foot in it I have got it to 1400 one time, it was on a 7 percent grade 2.5 miles long and I had are 32' flat bed hauling a dozier which i would not have even tried before.

i wish i would have done this when we had put the engine in the year before it has been one of the greatest improvements it balances out the truck with all the other modification

[Scrufdog]

I just installed my own custom set up top mount intercooler. The ram air scoop to feed it goes on this week, assuming the black rivets I ordered get here. So far, even without much air moving on it, at 7-8 seconds of 14 PSI, slow down 7-8 seconds 14 PSI, over and over the highest I could get was 160F. Once the scoop is on there, it should be much better. I'll post results when I get them.

[TurboDiverArt]

TurboDiverArt, you suggested a place to purchase quality tubing, What about the core? Did you post your pics? Thanks for the insight into blue collar intercooling. I didn't think I could afford it.

Here's a link to the thread I posted over the summer regarding my intercooler install.
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=23092

I bought my intercooler from Kevin at ETD Motors (Turbo Works), Kent as well as others did too.
Here's his eBay store:
http://stores.ebay.com/ETD-Motors_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm

Here's a 3" thick core for $120 shipped. This is the one Kent used and did his tests with.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Universal-Turbo-Intercooler-31x12x3-HONDA-CIVIC-DEL-SOL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ133204QQihZ009QQite mZ190075929841

Here's the same one with a 4" thick core, this is the one I have on my truck. $160 shipped.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FMIC-4-Turbo-INTERCOOLER-DSM-SUPRA-F150-Mustang-3000GT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ133204QQihZ009QQ itemZ190077829286

I know Kevin sells universal intercooler piping kits. If you ask him he can tell you what a 3" universal kit costs. Kevin makes good stuff and is a great vendor. I can easily list a dozen people that have bought from him and all are happy. No, I'm not affiliated with him or get a kickback in any way. I just dealt with him designing a custom outlaw intercooler for my racecar. Lots of back and forth on the design.

Art.

[TurboDiverArt]

i read all about the intercoolers here , but nothing about relieving the pressure through a Blow Off Valve ( BOV). I guess nobody runs it or can't run one on these. maybe i'm blind, but no vacuum source like on a Gas that I can find to use for a BOV. I like Bov's because not only does the IC keep temps down, The Bov does also by venting the hot air and also keeping the turbo from surging. I dont know if diesel's suffer like a gas does, but its worth hearing the can or can't and why
I don't think you need to worry about a surge or sneeze putting pressure on your turbo. In a gasser you have a throttle plate that when snapped shut under high boost causing a surge back against the compressor. No need for a sneeze valve that I can see, certainly not with the relatively low boost we can run with our trucks. I don't think you need a blow off valve to control over boost. You can always put an auxiliary external wastegate on the cross over if you're that worried about this. You'd have to play with the controller to get it set for just above what your turbo wastegate is set for. No need for Vacuum. I think it

[TurboDiverArt]

I just installed my own custom set up top mount intercooler. The ram air scoop to feed it goes on this week, assuming the black rivets I ordered get here. So far, even without much air moving on it, at 7-8 seconds of 14 PSI, slow down 7-8 seconds 14 PSI, over and over the highest I could get was 160F. Once the scoop is on there, it should be much better. I'll post results when I get them.
Got any pictures of your setup? I haven't heard of anyone actually doing this (just talking about it), sounds cool!

Art.

[9365turbo]

What difference would using 2.5" tubing to using 3" tubing on installing a intercooler since space is limited? Also 4" core or 3" core on the I/C? Thanks

[redbird2]

Using 2 1/2" compaired to 3" first off you don't need a adaptor at the turbo, second it may not seem like a lot a of diffence 1/2" when it comes to the keeping everthing from rubbing that 1/2" would be a great help. I used 3" and made it all work but would have liked a little more space. I covered the pipe in 2 place with cut off straight hose left over from where I had shorted the long elbows i purchased to make sure the pipes would rubb the inner fenders or the frame.

as for a 3" versas 4" cooler not big deal in mounting, the 4" is just overkill, and the 3" will save you a few bucks same as using the 2 1/2" pipe will save few bucks maybe 50-100 depending on where you buy your parts.

hope this helps it not a bad job considering you are going to save your self at least 700.00 over a purchased kit.

[BrentN]

Art,

When you get a chance, could you take a photo & measure how much clearance you have with your front tow hooks and the intercooler?

I have a reciever mount up front for my winch and am wondering if I will have enough clearance. (The receiver hitch uses the bolt holes for the tow hooks to mount & I discarded the hooks)


I am thinking that the intercooler will be my next improvement.
Thanks,
Brent

[Scrufdog]

Here's my $400 setup, including the price for the ram air scoop that should be on early next week.


http://www.scrufdog.com/images/truck/inter.jpg


http://www.scrufdog.com/images/truck/inter2.jpg

[a5150nut]

Scufdog

When you get the new hood can you post temps with your setup? And, is that a marine intake on top of the manifold?

[Scrufdog]

Scufdog

When you get the new hood can you post temps with your setup? And, is that a marine intake on top of the manifold?


yes, and yes...Peninsular Diesel Intake

[Shikaroka]

I too have had a top mount in the works for a while, I just have not had the time to finish it up.

And, I really need one of the marine intakes.
How do you buy parts from Peninsular?

[gmctd]

Excellent job, Scruffy - really nice work - good solution for the MAP sensor.

Considering that the 6.5 utilizes heavier-wall castings than a gasser engine, also considering all the electrical stuff back there between the engine and the firewall, given any thought as to all the water that will be cascading over that area in circumstance of heavy rain?

I would think it would be even more of a hazardous problem in cold weather, with sleeting rain - hot cast-iron doesn't take too well to recurring rapid surface temperature changes.

Knowwhuttimean, jellybean?

[TurboDiverArt]

Art,

When you get a chance, could you take a photo & measure how much clearance you have with your front tow hooks and the intercooler?

I have a reciever mount up front for my winch and am wondering if I will have enough clearance. (The receiver hitch uses the bolt holes for the tow hooks to mount & I discarded the hooks)


I am thinking that the intercooler will be my next improvement.
Thanks,
Brent
Which measurement do you want? I have the stock tow hooks in place? Measure from the rear bolt hole to the closest point on the intercooler?

Art.

[xtrempickup]

[QUOTE=Scrufdog]Here's my $400 setup, including the price for the ram air scoop that should be on early next week.

think I am gonna make a set up similar, just gonna have to buy a glass hood scoop and make a port so the thing gets cold air. I like the top mount Idea a lot better and there is a lot less piping and its easier to get at. also looks awesome for that awe factor when you open the hood. nice job

[BrentN]

Art,
You guessed it, the closest point to intercooler from the bolt holes.

I would hate to lose the ability to mount my multi mount winch (I can mount on the front receiver or rear receiver) when I put an intercooler on. Having the winch is nice when we head up into the hills in the winter.

I am looking forward to fabbing up a system like yours.

Last summer at the Grand Canyon, 8,000+ feet & 108 Degrees outside with the trailer on definately was a thermal workout for the beast. The summer before we made our way to Mt Rushmore.

We always make at least one run per summer from Salem, Oregon to the Los Angeles area. Needless to say, we always see our share of hill climbs!

I never have any problems per se, but always looking to improve the engines' longevity and towing satisfaction (and performance is always a plus)

[sturgeon-phish]

Scrufdog,
Your set-up is exactly what I had in mind right down to the marine intake! The idea I had was to use a scoop either open front or rear, had not figured that far yet, for the air in part. I was going to tub the intercooler and seal against the hood underside so the incoming air would pass through the IC then out via ducting routing down the drivers side to under the truck. Doing this would prevent a positive pressure in the engine compartment which may affect cooling, and keep rain and weather out from the motor and electricals. Thanks for the PICs!!!!
Jim

[sturgeon-phish]

Another stray thought! What if you top mounted the intercooler such that the cooling air passed through front to back instead of the air entering the top flowning through and down. Have a scoop that was open in the front and back with a downward deflector to flow through the intercooler which could even be slightly elevated above the normal hood line into the scoop. Isolate the intercooler from the engine bay to further avoid heat sink. This is sounding very interesting.
Scruff I'm interested in know what improvments you are seeing with your setup as it is now.
Jim

[Scrufdog]

gmctd and Mr. phish.....

The scoop I have is about 2 1/2 feet front to back. The hole for the intercooler is going to be about 7 inches front to back, about 20 inches wide. so there will be just under 2 feet of hood under the scoop before the hole. Most of the rain, cold stuff, and such will land on the hood before it gets to the hole. I'm also gonna use door edge molding around the hole I cut to help stray water from running onto the inside. Either way, whatever water gets in there its gonna have to go through the intercooler before it touches anything else, so it wont be freezing when it hits hot stuff. The hole in the hood will fit the intercooler. The rest of the hood under the hood will be painted flat black to hide the blue body color under there.

[TurboDiverArt]

Art,
You guessed it, the closest point to intercooler from the bolt holes.

I would hate to lose the ability to mount my multi mount winch (I can mount on the front receiver or rear receiver) when I put an intercooler on. Having the winch is nice when we head up into the hills in the winter.
Sorry, I was off line for a while and just seeing this now. I'll try and go out tonight when I'm home and take some measurements and maybe a picture or two for you. Sorry for the wait!

Art.

[TurboDiverArt]

Art,
You guessed it, the closest point to intercooler from the bolt holes.

I would hate to lose the ability to mount my multi mount winch (I can mount on the front receiver or rear receiver) when I put an intercooler on. Having the winch is nice when we head up into the hills in the winter.
OK, I did some measuring for you yesterday. The top of the intercooler is well within the confines of the frame because the intercooler is thinner at the top and wider at the bottom where the pipes are. The top fits snugly and slightly above the bumper. There is about a 1 3/4" gap between the top edge of the intercooler and the inside of the frame rail on both sides. Measuring from the center of the top tow hook bolt to the side of the intercooler there is a gap of about 2 1/4" and about 2" from the bottom bolt on both sides.

Does that give you the info you need?

Art.