Question on installing oil cooler lines

[Chris611]

I am installing Lubrication Specialists' oil cooler line and cooler kit. I have the kit installed. I have a question on the routing of the hoses. I talked with Greg earlier today. I tried again just before 5:00 and left a message. I figure he has gone home for the day, so I figured I would ask you guys. The rear fittings I have pointing slightly upward to avoid hitting the oil filter, but it's still close. And it appears that the lines are also hitting the dipstick tube and the side of the front differential. This doesn't seem right. Do I have the fittings pointed the wrong way? Also there are two sets of clamps. I used one set and bolted them to the brakcet at the front of the engine, but where does the other set go? Any help would be great.

Thanks guys
Chris

[Chris611]

Has anyone else installed these lines? When I was searching for fixes on the oil cooler lines, everyone suggested Lubrication Specialists, so I assumed thats what most people used to fix them. I know some made there own though. I figured I would have had some suggestions by now. Any help would be apperciated. Also is there a cold oil bypass for the oil cooler? In other words, does the oil only go through the oil filter after it reaches a certain temp?

Thanks
Chris

[Hubert]

I made my own high temp braided hydraulic lines locally (did not save in the end). And just zip tied them to the spot that clamped the OE metal lines. I ran them in a sleeve for added abrassion and thermal protection and the OE clip did not work. I zipped tied them together several places to let them brace and support each other. I don't think there is anything special about it just so its supported, won't chafe with engine vibration motion, but has room to flex with relative motion (of engine to frame) and bends are as gentle or smooth as possible.

I mounted my oil filter remotely so it is different. I wouldn't worry about proximity to oil filter adapter as much. I would make sure lines are away from exhaust manifold best you can.

There is a spring loaded bypass valve to allow oil flow past cooler and another for oil filter for cold start up protection.

[sailun]

Can anyone tell me any more about these bypass valves ? I'm seeing very high oil pressure when I start cold, after I last changed the oil and filter. (very close to 80) AMSOIL

Has never gone this high in the past 5 years, used to reach almost 70 when cold.

Also, what's the best fix for the oil filter adapter leaking ? NAPA didn't list any gaskets.

BTW, I have had my oil cooler lines replaced twice.

Thanks.

[Hubert]

Here is some stuff I learned looking into remote oil filters and the bypasses.

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=21871&highlight=pressure

OK its not very well written and I still don't 100% understand exactly how the bypass filters work but kind of lean towards its a differential bypass. To open the filter bypass it would only take 17 psi on initial flow but after flow steady states it takes much more pressure to open it and bypass. I imagine the oil cooler is about similar in forces.
The OE dash gauge is not really accurate but its relative and works better than an idiot light for sure. Before you worry too much about it double check gauge accuracy.

GM dealer has the o rings for the filter adapter for not much money I've read several times the part numbers have been posted several times.

[Hubert]

I made my own high temp braided hydraulic lines locally (did not save in the end). And just zip tied them to the spot that clamped the OE metal lines. I ran them in a sleeve for added abrassion and thermal protection and the OE clip did not work. I zipped tied them together several places to let them brace and support each other. I don't think there is anything special about it just so its supported, won't chafe with engine vibration motion, but has room to flex with relative motion (of engine to frame) and bends are as gentle or smooth as possible.



UPDATE

I feel bad when I give advice that turns out to be bad or mislead so I wanted to update this post.

I have developed a leak in my braided hydraulic hose oil cooler lines where they have rubbed through on the plastic skid plate. Its where they bend back up and over the "skidplate". My lines should have been a bit longer so I could bend, route, and secure them better. The zip ties did not hold up through the bolt hole for the OE oil lines brace. Vibration and metal to plastic the metal won. My sheathing was a bit short also and did not cover the hose over the skid plate spot very well.

So to fix I am making new lines up a little longer, making sure sheathing is long enough, and going to use wire to attach and secure lines with room to move. Also going to use plastic pads round attachment or rubbing points so to protect against chafe through.

Just wanted to say don't under estimate the relative motion and chafing hazard of these lines.