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View Full Version : wanted:tips for 6.2 banks turbo install.



ccatlett1984
12-26-2006, 23:47
I just got a banks kit for my 6.2, are there any tips/tricks for when I go to install it?

arveetek
12-27-2006, 09:23
I'd remove the manual fuel lift pump and install an electric pump. The manual pump is a real bear to replace later on once you get the Banks kit installed. You can get a fuel pump block-off plate at the dealer for a few bucks. It's the same for a 6.5L that came from the factory with an electric pump, as well as all Chevy small-blocks that didn't use a manual pump.

Do you have the installation instructions?

Casey

britannic
12-27-2006, 09:59
If you want to keep the mechanical pump (it is as difficult as Casey says, with the engine in position), you can always undo the motor mount on that side and lift or jack the engine up to get the pump bolts clear of the frame - I found I could get it done really quickly using that trick.


I'd remove the manual fuel lift pump and install an electric pump. The manual pump is a real bear to replace later on once you get the Banks kit installed. You can get a fuel pump block-off plate at the dealer for a few bucks. It's the same for a 6.5L that came from the factory with an electric pump, as well as all Chevy small-blocks that didn't use a manual pump.

Do you have the installation instructions?

Casey

ccatlett1984
01-02-2007, 11:06
the kit didnt come with the banks instructions, though I have contacted banks hoping to be able to get them.

Wagoneer
01-06-2007, 20:12
Look here http://bankspower.com/OwnersManuals1.cfm

ccatlett1984
01-06-2007, 21:31
Thanks for the info regarding the install manual, I was really looking more for people that had done the install. When you install something you always run into things that aren't explained in the manual, or after doing it you see an easier way to do it.

john8662
01-08-2007, 12:32
Thanks for the info regarding the install manual, I was really looking more for people that had done the install. When you install something you always run into things that aren't explained in the manual, or after doing it you see an easier way to do it.


The good about the manual is it'll help you identify which parts you have and which parts you don't. In the case of a used kit, you're likely missing some pretty key components.

The manual will also have the key advice about indexing the turbo on the truck to line up with things, that's helpfull. Don't assume because it's been done on another engine that it'll bolt right up to yours, it won't, believe me.

In regards to the above advice on the fuel pump. I vote to keep the mechanical pump, but make sure you have the correct Banks drain plate and turbo drain tube.

This should be with your kit, unless it's an early style Banks kit (actually made in the late 80's or early 90's). The earlier kits required you to remove your oil pan and install a bung on the pan, you were then supplied with a different (from the current offering) oil drain tube and a 90 degree adapter for the pan that screws into the bung.

I elected to not remove the pan, and purchased the hardware from Banks (already had the early style). It's a fuel pump plate with a small welded-on tube for drain, and comes with the drain tube from the turbo. It's packed together and you can't get it separatly (plate and tube). Call Banks! It's around $80 bucks though, but how much is your time worth? Mine's worth more than 80, so that's chump change.

How about your exhaust system?

I had mine fabbed up locally (to the tune of almost $600). I had no exhaust, I didn't have the crossover pipe, etc. So I made a custome one (or had made, I ain't no welder).

You at least need Banks downpipe!

Gaskets...

You'll need a few only-from-Banks gaskets. The turbo downpipe gasket (6-bolt, odd flange), get two gaskets, keep a spare. You'll also need the gasket for the crossoverpipe, get two here too, in case you have a leak.

ccatlett1984
01-08-2007, 14:35
My "used kit" is actually the entire kit still bolted to the engine that it came from. I have the downpipe as well. only need to get some of the soft hoses (radiator upper/lower and inlet hose from the air box to turbo). My truck is an 85 and has the fuel filter mounted on the firewall, the engine the turbo came with has the spin on attached to the intake plus a second fuel filter on a remote mount block, do you think that I should plumb in the second filter on my truck?

john8662
01-08-2007, 15:51
My truck is an 85 and has the fuel filter mounted on the firewall, the engine the turbo came with has the spin on attached to the intake plus a second fuel filter on a remote mount block, do you think that I should plumb in the second filter on my truck?

First, the donor engine is either an 82 or 83 model because it has the spin on rear mounted secondary fuel filter. Keep what you have, it's far superior and easier to service. You don't want to have to service another filter that's not easy to get to do you?

My two kits were piece together kits, one was missing the turbo, oh well.

You'll still need the x-over gasket, because you'll have to separate the crossover pipe to install it on your engine off the donor engine.

Make sure you got the bracket for the air cleaner housing that mounts the housing to the battery holder/support.

The air tubing from the airbox to the turbo can be had pretty cheap online. Rubber is more than sufficient, but silicone would work too. Just a 90 degree bend. I sourced mine out.

What about the hose from the CDR valve to the air cleaner box?

Be sure to take the compressor housing on the turbo off and clean the compressor housing of any debris. I'd do this with ALL the components, don't want any dirt etc.

Which oil drain does your donor have on it? Bung on pan, or the other?

J