Removing Block Freeze Plug?

[damork]

What's the best way to remove a block soft plug / freeze plug? I was cleaning starter connections when I found a weeping freeze plug behind the starter.

Not a lot of room but seems installing a new one will be easier than taking the old one out.

[NH2112]

I've always used a hammer & punch to knock the plug cockeyed in its bore then worked it out with a pair of pliers.

[john8662]

I've always used a hammer & punch to knock the plug cockeyed in its bore then worked it out with a pair of pliers.


Yup!

That's what I do when stripping a block too, some are real fun to remove.

At least it's accessable, instead of BEHIND the engine mount (yet to be attempted soon).

[arveetek]

I've always used a hammer & punch to knock the plug cockeyed in its bore then worked it out with a pair of pliers.

Ditto. That's what I do.

Casey

[arveetek]

At least it's accessable, instead of BEHIND the engine mount (yet to be attempted soon).

My brother and I just replaced a soft plug on my dad's Lincoln Town Car with the 4.6L V-8. Naturally, the plug that had to be leaking was the one right behind the motor mount! What a pain that was. We had to jack up the engine, and completely remove the motor mount, both halves. Knocking the old plug out wasn't too bad, but we had no room to drive in a new plug and seat it properly. What we ended up doing was placing a long socket between the freeze plug and the crossmember, which happened to be perfectly parallel to it, and then jacking up the motor and letting it fall down on the socket, using the weight of the engine to drive the plug into place. Only took a few drops of the engine on the socket to get the plug seated perfectly where we wanted it.

Casey

[john8662]

What we ended up doing was placing a long socket between the freeze plug and the crossmember, which happened to be perfectly parallel to it, and then jacking up the motor and letting it fall down on the socket, using the weight of the engine to drive the plug into place. Only took a few drops of the engine on the socket to get the plug seated perfectly where we wanted it.

That's creative!

Glad it worked out, cause you're right in that there isn't any room still.

J

[ocd]

i found the same weeping frost plug behind my starter but since i have a k20 4x4 3/4ton the frame is on the same level as the freeze plug and the bump stop bracket and leaf springs and front axle/diff are all in the way of getting the right angle on the drift or enough room to swing a hammer. not to mention the plug itself was so corroded on the lower bit that the drift went right through on the first whack. so i have made the hole large enough to get some pliers through in hopes that some pliers could grab a hold but that plug is not budging. the plug forward of the one i'm working on appears to have the same kind of corrosion too. yeah!:mad:

any tricks?:confused: short of pulling the motor and doing all of them even though they probably all need to be done.

thanks

[Robyn]

It seems we all agree on how to get the plug out.

These plugs are good for about 150-200K depending on what has been used in the way of coolant and the water that was added to it over time.

I tell folks, that any time you have an engine out of the chassis for repairs to replace the soft plugs.

I have seen several that folks have rebuilt and did not do the plugs, only to have one fail a short time later.

If you can't drive in a fresh one there are rubber ones with a steel plate on them and a draw bolt.
These expand in the hole when the nut is tightened.
When dealing with this sort of issue these are a lifesaver.

Be sure and use some emery paper to clean the bore real good no matter what you use.

Permatex 2 smeared in the hole prior to installing a drive in plug is a good idea.

Good luck

Robyn

[JohnC]

If you can't get it out, punch or drill a hole in the center. This relieves a lot of the tension and makes it easier to knock sideways.

Ditto on the rubber plug if installation is tough.

[simon]

i found the same weeping frost plug behind my starter but since i have a k20 4x4 3/4ton the frame is on the same level as the freeze plug and the bump stop bracket and leaf springs and front axle/diff are all in the way of getting the right angle on the drift or enough room to swing a hammer. not to mention the plug itself was so corroded on the lower bit that the drift went right through on the first whack. so i have made the hole large enough to get some pliers through in hopes that some pliers could grab a hold but that plug is not budging. the plug forward of the one i'm working on appears to have the same kind of corrosion too. yeah!:mad:

any tricks?:confused: short of pulling the motor and doing all of them even though they probably all need to be done.

thanksif all else fails, i would use a snug fitting socket and hammer the plug all the way in, if you cant turn it side ways and pull it out, forget the damn thing and leave it there

[ocd]

unfortunately it is the removal of the plug that is the problem. i've got the rubber expanding plugs for putting back in.

is there anything to be concerned about in using the block to pry against? such as gouging/scoring/cracking.

ways of getting more clearance around that plug for more leverage/hammer travel?

how about a dent puller/slide hammer? or something similar

if i need to use heat or a torch do i need to worry about damaging the block before the plug melts?

thanks for the help:o i am attempting this while its parked in the street. i'm getting tired of the rain and cold. -dreaming of taking a trip to the desert.

the truck has 286k miles on orig motor/trans -just the ip has been rebuilt.

[ocd]

finally got it out with a dremel and cutting disc for one. that didn't work for the one forward so i bought an air hammer;) -"git a bigger hammer".

this all started with fuel starvation symptoms -maybe got some bad fuel -replaced filters some fuel lines -bled the fuel system down to the injectors, wouldn't start -replaced batteries, the positive cable to the starter, repaired the hack job wiring(bare wires and butt connectors) from the ignition switch? at the starter...

put it all back together and got it running a few times but only for 30 seconds at a time but it would cut off by itself.

most recent is after cranking it over for 10 seconds i turned the ignition switch to off and the engine kept cranking!!!

i wasn't able to get a cable disconnected until the starter slowed to almost stopping(imagine me jumping out of the cab frantic running around for a tool)
and then a little smoke rose from the driver's side of the engine probably around the ground connection?

had the batteries tested they were fine just low charge

-i am about to reconnect everything.

should i have the starter tested first?

what else do i need to do?

why would the starter keep cranking the engine over after turning the key off?

should this be in another thread?

thanks

[simon]

Well, either the starter contacts in the starter solenoid welded together or the ign switch got hung up in start position.

as the starter has obviously over heated with a prolonged start like that it is prob be fried by now.

[Scooby]

If you are going to get a starter, I highly suggest a Powermaster. I just put one in my 96, and it has never turned over so fast in the 5+ years I have had it. I got it from Jegs, # 713-9052. It fits much better than the stock one, and you can access the terminals better too.

[ocd]

oh it was fried alright -in the engaged position! -parts store gave me a new one

i checked the driver's side ground and it was crispy -parts store didnt have anything even as big as stock so i bought some 1 gauge wire, soldier, and copper ring terminals and made a new one.

after i put everything back together it cranked 2x as fast as i've ever heard it before. but still no start:(

i'm gonna have to start from the beginning with the fuel system check and do it again -make sure i havn't missed anything

thanks people:)