Shopping for a Duramax - What to look for?

[Putzboy]

So I'm shopping for a used Duramax, probably in the '01 - '03 range. What should I be looking for? Avoiding?

Just talked to one guy with an '02. Apparently the check engine light is on and the error code is glow plugs. He says they have replaced them all and yet the same thing. Dealer tells him it's because of an aftermarket gas cap and because there's no "sensor" in it, it thinks the glow plugs are bad. Says the truck runs perfect and dealer says it's a computer glitch.

Should I be suspicious?

What other gotchas should I keep an eye out for?

Ken

[spongebob]

welcome putz...1st thing is to do a search here on problems, and become a member, it'll let you into some secret places..

im kinda new too, and love this place...good luck with your search and future purchase..

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome to the Forums!

Between '01-'04 years (not including '04.5), it's about condition, features and body style preference. In CA, however, 2001 was the only model year with NO emmissions equipment. 2002+ will have a cat and EGR. The 2003 models have a later electrical system (multiplexed vs. old style), and Chevy changed the grill/hood. They are all good trucks.

Also, the SES light can also be caused by a failed intake heater or blown fuse. The DTC is the same for both the plugs and heater. It is very unlikely glow plugs have failed immediately after being replaced. You will have to get the DTC read, and check power-on voltages to determine if/how many plugs are effected, if at all. If one or more plug fails, the SES will be illuminated, and code P0380 will be present. Same for the heater if starting in temps below ~60

[Mark Rinker]

Personally, I'd tell the guy to get the truck fixed and THEN sell it!

Here is my opinion on used Duramaxs, in no particular order:

1) Skip the '01s (and probably '02s now for that matter) unless they already have a brand new complete set of GM warranty injectors installed, or are seriously low mile creampuffs and underpriced. I use completed Ebay sales as a benchmark for market price, but haven't bought a DMax there - yet.

2) On all trucks, inspect the rear seals for leakage and the condition of the rear brake rotors. Daily drivers have a tendancy to corrode from underuse. Its about $1200 to go through a rear end with seals and brake hardware, complete.

3) On higher mile trucks, check the hydroboost unit for signs of leakage. Same for the transfer case.

4) A record of what lubricants and service intervals used is imperitive. Synthetics are good in the engine and diffs. A rear diff with no paint was a very HOT rear diff at some time. Pass.

5) For my business, I look for stock trucks with higher than normal miles with good service histories. I personally would pass on hot rodded trucks for obvious reasons. However, if you plan to build a hot rod truck, you might save thousands by buying one all done, and if the person driving it was reasonable, the truck is probably no worse for wear. If they are wearing a 'GIVERHELL' t-shirt and the truck has bald rear tires...well...