Anyone break a '98?

[Mark Rinker]

With the second crankshaft failure in as many '94s owned, I am totally paranoid every time I start truck #1 listed below.

The engine now has about 100K miles on it - but I know this was a year of the dreaded 'oil spray block' and more cracking as a result.

Question: Has anyone here had a 1998 engine grenade on them? If so, what was the root cause? Is there anything I can do to prevent it? I am literally afraid to use this truck for fear of reducing it from a $4500 plow truck to a $500 parts truck, and wondering if I should just sell it before the inevitable happens.

Also, hearing from anyone with a '98 that has a bazillion crack-free miles would be reassuring!

[gmctd]

Check the harmonic balancer and the accessory pulley for rubber deterioration, and the dual-mass flywheel for rattles, if NV4500 equipped

[Mark Rinker]

It has a 4L80E, and the crank pulley was replaced with a new OEM peice when the engine was swapped in, approximately 30K miles ago.

[gmctd]

Harmonic balancer condition?

Frigid cold deteriorates that rubber compound.

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
My 1999 started to consume mass amounts of antifreeze at about 128,000. Supposedly this was the better engine, but when I took it apart I found it was the same as a 1998, big oil spray etc...Took out the rear main and the cyclinder walls between 5 & 7
I THINK it be ok for plowing but I am not so sure about these engines for truely HEAVY towing. I have had a couple loads that exceeded NORMAL limits and I worked the truck hard before I had the intercooler.
Hope this helps....What are you worried about plowing for??? Winter is over! It's gonna be 30* this weekend!!!!
L8r
Conley

[Mainous]

I think sometimes we get too paranoid about these things. Remember that there are 10's of thousands of the "1st gen oil spray blocks" that roll up the road everyday just fine under all condtions. We just hear more about issues here because when people have issues they start looking for answers at forums such as this.

I lost the engine in my 97 with this issue but it didn't keep me from buying a 99 knowing that it it also had the weak block. You have to weigh the price against the risk. The only preventative that I know would be to add a stud girdle.

In any case, I would use the truck for what you bought it for. Allow it to make money for you to cover the cost of that possible cracked block. When my engine let go I had towed virtually nothing with it. It spent most of it's time on the highway empty. Just my $.02 worth.

[Mark Rinker]

Thanks for the responses. All good input.

I should have stated that the crank pulley AND the harmonic balancer were replaced with new OEM. I will certainly inspect it to make sure its in good shape this winter - or whats left of it!

[Robyn]

Mark
I too think you have a case of the jitters running rampant here.
I would do as has been mentioned, Run it till it blows then worry about it.

The interesting thing is that it may never go way no matter what you do and then it might blow tomorrow 2 seconds after you lite it off.

Its like the pmd issue, I have talked with folks that ran 150K and wore the trucks out and never had an issue with IP. PMD or any of that stuff.

They ran back to get another new one as fast as they could.
Be happy, and use the sucker for what you bought it for.

[K. D.]

I have a 98, bone stock, with about 160k. Runs great. This truck is used for very heavy towing, scales right about 32k GCW when hauling hay. A local contractor doing base work for highways runs about 15 98 pickups with the 6.5. All have over 300k on the odometer, and all he has ever changed on the engine is the starters and alternators. Original IP even. These trucks are loaded down with toolboxes, 135 gallon slip tanks, spare parts etc. Average weight is about 9k.

The point is, yeah, all you ever hear about on this site are the ones that have problems.

K.D.

[marktara]

My 98 has brand new GM engine in it after cracked block with only 127000 babied km on her. Not what you want to hear?

[Mark Rinker]

Yeah I think I know the right answer. Sell it. Now.

However, it is still useful to my plowing business, and is a better candidate for the sand/salting duties since it has buku overload springs, a flatbed, and enough rust that a little more won't hurt anything.

I guess I keep it plugged in, keep turning the key, and keep praying that it makes it!!!

[Turbine Doc]

121K on my 98 truck, I did a lower inspection at 99K crack free then, I bought the truck at 37K, so far so good, even the occasional haul up to 24K truck & loaded trailer. I think a lot has to do with TLC given to the truck and use/abuse before you become the 2nd or 3rd owner. My 98 Burb 131k I've not dropped the pan & inspected from below so far so good.

[Mark Rinker]

Great news! Thanks I needed that!

[LeadHead]

My '98 Suburban has 233,000 miles on it and as far as I know the crank is original. It isn't a frequent heavy hauler but it's seen a fair amount of towing. The harmonic balancer failed this week, so I have to change that tomorrow, hopefully.

[More Power]

I ran across a broken crank & pulley photo in the archive that a reader sent to me some time ago. I thought it might be a good one to include in a related thread.

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/500/blk_crnk_damper1.jpg

This one broke nearer to the rear of the engine, but make note of the crank pulley... And, the fact that the block didn't fail. ;)

Jim

[EdHale]

I would agree that we rarely here about the ones with no problems. My '98 that I sold to my son in law is still going strong at 265,000 with a bone stock and original engine, transmission, and turbo. He has it in Florida right now after towing a car for the weekend. He told me last night that the a/c compressor may be going south, but it is original too. Ed