Hi-lift jack with Suburban

[Zeke's Dad]

I'm thinking about buying a hi-lift jack to keep in the back of the Suburban. I have the scissors type jack that came with the vehicle, but would like to have a heavy duty hi-lift type jack.

Questions: Is the bumper strong enough to hold the weight of the vehicle? In the rear can the vehicle be raised by attaching the jack to the receiver for the hitch? Is it safe to do that? I read the owners manual and noticed that the jacking points are on the frame underneath the vehicle which obviously don't apply when using a hi-lift jack. I haven't used a bumper jack in many years and wondered what the pros and cons are.

[Ebrown]

I have used my High lift on the bumper of 1996 Chevy HD 3/4, 4x4 ext cab , 1986 4x4 K-5 Blazer with 6.2 diesel. I wouldn't jack it using the trail hitch as it will lift the hole rear end or front. I use my High lift ( Bumper Lift Accessories) And place the jack by the bumper ( ear) main tie in to the frame ( Offset the Jack to the side that you need to work on). ! Be very careful work under your burb when using this jack, And if you do Slip your tire or your Spare under the control arm OR hub as if it fall you won't be pinned under it! Because it won't make you day! Hope this helps

[Zeke's Dad]

Thanks for the info.

[DA BIG ONE]

To use jacker on side of burb you need lift points installed, like nerf bars welded to chassis w/pads for jack.

If you carry a jackstand (strong enough to hold weight) then HiJacker has an niffty little item that attaches to openings on wheel for lifting, just insert the 2 hooks into opening of wheel and let pad rest on tire sidewall and jack once up in air place jackstand inder chassis or frt/x-member, in back the diff is a good jackstand point.

Jackstand perform better with pads welded to each leg or a plate over entire bottom to prevent it from sinking into soft ground/sand.

[N9Phil]

If you use a High Lift jack make sure to block the wheels. I had an old 80 Suburban that I was jacking one day and didn't have the wheels blocked. When it got up in the air, it started to roll forward and the jack put a nice crease in the roof. I believe that I had the rear window down at the time or it would have done a job on it also.

I find a much better choice for a jack is a hydraulic bottle jack. They can be bought rather cheap and don

[DmaxMaverick]

Hi-Lifts are very handy at the right time. I would not suggest someone rely on one for their only jack, like for routing flat changes or service. They are very dangerous. As mentioned, they can cause serious damage if the vehicle rolls, as there is not really much hanging onto the vehicle, and they are spindly at extention, like the old bumper jacks (which have been abandoned for several reasons, including safety).

I have a friend who had his jaw wired shut for a year because of a hi-lift. This jack has a deadly handle. Like other jacks, if the handle slips from your hand, it can be lethal. Problem is, unlike other jacks, the handle will ratchet and repeatedly swing away as long as their is load on it, and many times with no load. My friend was hit at least 8 times on his chin before he fell unconscience. Nothing he could do, it happened so fast.

The hi-lift jack is priceless if you get into trouble on the trail. I don't think it has any usefulness for a daily driver. A bottle jack (hydraulic or gear), scissor, or a compact floor jack is a much better option.

[Craig M]

Like other have stated, most prefer a hydraulic jack to change tires. One can place it directly under the axle/spring location. You do not have to unspring the springs to get vehicle lift. A 4 inch stroke jack will usually suffice. Occasionaly one has to resupport the vehicle, that is why a few wood block are good to have around with one.