Need Help New To The 6.5

[pholt]

I just bought a 95 6.5 65k original miles. It runs perfect but it died the other day right after I started it, I tried a few more times and it started, ran fine.

Well I just started it again, it sputtered and died and will not start, I know nothing about the 6.5! Where do I start. (I just now tried several times again let it set tried again and it started????

What do I do.

Also if it helps the check engine light came on the other day and went off going down the road.

Also is is about 65 deg here and the truck is semi cold.

Thank you in advance.

[pholt]

78 84 and 99 came up, but the engine light comes on every so often. I do not think it has anything to do with it not starting.

[Robyn]

Check the codes and see what they are refering too.
So many times the PMD is the issue, but usually they dont toss any codes

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome to the Forums!

Codes are for wastegate solenoid (78) and APP (84, 99 = throttle).

The 78 won't cause a no start, but the 84 and 99 will (neither will independently). Sounds like your 78 shows up when under load, and the others are new. The 78 will come/go as the issue is present, but 84 and 99 will persist until it is corrected and cleared (in regards to the SES).

Check your grounds and connections. If the problem and codes persist, you may need an APP. Some success has been had cleaning the APP, internally with contact cleaner. If you have access to another 6.5 EFI, you can switch the pedals, confirm yours is bad, and repair/replace. Take care of this, then come back and address the w/g solenoid (more common, but the engine needs to be running).

[pholt]

Could this be al lift pump problem the PMD on this truck LOOKS NEW? IT is very clean and the engine is not as clean as the PMD?

How can I test the lift pump or do the hot wire, I searched and found the advice but not how to do it.

Paul

[DmaxMaverick]

You could have a lift pump problem, but that won't throw those codes. Address the APP first, then the rest. With the 2 APP codes, it will make it very difficult to get the PCM to cooperate with any other diagnostics.

You are lucky to have a '95, when it comes to diagnosing the lift pump. Do this....

Have ready, a fuel collection bottle (any clear bottle larger than a pint, clean and dry), and a fuel pressure gage w/ a barb fitting that will fit the water drain hose (hose/valve at front of engine near the coolant outlet). Set E-brake. Place the drain hose into the collection bottle, and place the bottle where you can see it, and reach the ign. Turn key to run, but do not start. Move gear selector to any position other than P or N. Turn key to start. Engine will not crank, but the fuel pump should run. If the pump doesn't run, you can diagnose it, but not yet. The fuel pump should fill the bottle to about a pint in about 15-30 seconds with the valve full open. The amount is not critical, but it should be that much or more. Cap that bottle and set it aside where it won't be disturbed or agitated. Place the fuel pressure gage on the drain line and place it where you can see it and reach the ign. With the fuel pump running (turn key) and drain vavle open, the pressure should be 5 PSI or higher. 4 is OK, but could indicate a tired pump. It should not be above 10 PSI. If you don't have a gage available, you can block the hose with your finger. The pressure should be significant. If you can very easily block the flow (very little resistance), it could mean a tired pump. Now, check the fuel sample you took earlier for water or other contaminants. There may be some stuff in it if the hose was dirty and you didn't flush/clean it, but there should be no water settled out, and no metal. Any metal will be from the tank, and indicates a failed injection pump. If you've been using a water emulsifying additive, there should be no water present. If there is, the water amount is so great the additive has been overwhelmed. Once you get the engine running, repeat the pressure test. It should maintain 4+ PSI at idle. If the pump runs with the key, but stops once the engine is running, suspect the OPS (oil pressure switch) or related wires/connectors. The OPS is a common failure item, and failure is related to the full electrical load of the LP. Upgrading your LP system with a relay is beneficial, and will relieve the load on the OPS.

Another thing that can cause running/stalling problems is the return lines. If any are blocked/kinked, it can cause stalling issues, missing, and poor running. A leaky return line may indicate blockage somewhere. If no blockage, a leaky return will make a mess, but won't cause running issues.

[pholt]

Thank you for the help, I will try those things as soon as I get a free chance this week and will email back the results. The injector pump should be fine with 67k, should it not, and it sure lookes like the PMD has been replaced not too long ago. And I verified this mileage on this truck is accurate, it is documented the whole way and car fax verified.

Thank You so much.