Power Up

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

Being a young guy with this truck, I am seeking more power. My goal is 325-350 bhp and 640-675 torque. Once I get a pyrometer and a boost gauge I want to turn my boost up. I was told that I should cut the actuator arm in half and thread a turnbuckle onto both ends. I should then shorten the arm until my boost is at 15-17 max psi. Will this work? Another power point apparently is to turn up the injection pump fuel screws slightly. I know this will mean less milage but it is supposed to work similar to installing a chip for more injector psi. When I pull the engine this spring for a rebuild, I am going to install the perfomance cam and valve set from SSDiesel. Also in the spring I am going to pull of the upgraded downpipe that I currently have and fit a custom four inch downpipe in. These will hopefully give me the power I am seeking. What I would really like to do is twin turbo charge the 6.5 (custom manifold and intake) and put propane injection in. With the things I have done so far, the truck has gobs of power allready, it will run with stock 2006 powerstrokes. But I need more. Is there any other suggestions?

[DmaxMaverick]

You really need to consider a repower with your intentions built in. I doubt you will get close to your target HP/TQ with what you have now. Just in case you do, keep a broom and dust pan handy. Read up on what you need to do to get your power up there without creating an oil slick.

Good luck!

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

As in a conversion? What would my major obstacles be?:confused:

[dieseldummy]

A cummins or dmax would actually hold up to that power level. A 6.5 just won't cut it if you want to use the power daily.

[grape]

As in a conversion? What would my major obstacles be?:confused:

running over the crankshaft.............

[restoguy]

Well put, grape......

[azblazor]

From people on this site who are de-facto experts on this engine, the upper limit for HP (reliable) is said to be about 300.

[Cowracer]

Being a young guy with this truck, I am seeking more power. My goal is 325-350 bhp and 640-675 torque. Once I get a pyrometer and a boost gauge I want to turn my boost up. I was told that I should cut the actuator arm in half and thread a turnbuckle onto both ends. I should then shorten the arm until my boost is at 15-17 max psi. Will this work? Another power point apparently is to turn up the injection pump fuel screws slightly. I know this will mean less milage but it is supposed to work similar to installing a chip for more injector psi. When I pull the engine this spring for a rebuild, I am going to install the perfomance cam and valve set from SSDiesel. Also in the spring I am going to pull of the upgraded downpipe that I currently have and fit a custom four inch downpipe in. These will hopefully give me the power I am seeking. What I would really like to do is twin turbo charge the 6.5 (custom manifold and intake) and put propane injection in. With the things I have done so far, the truck has gobs of power allready, it will run with stock 2006 powerstrokes. But I need more. Is there any other suggestions?

You are looking at a pipe dream. RonnieJoe on this board probably has the hottest 6.5 currently on the road, and its nowhere near 325 and 640. He might be close to 300 at the flywheel, but IIRC he is around 265 at the rear wheels.

Simply turning up the boost and upping the fuel will not get you up to 300HP, even for a while. 15-17 lbs of boost with stock compression is a recipie for disaster.

It will (not might) blow head gaskets, and melt the crowns off of the pistons. Your pump is a DB2. It can not supply enough fuel for 325HP. Its a design thing. You would have to add propane and/or nitrous to get what you want, power wise.

I cannot comment on the cam and valves. Surely an improvement over stock, but nowhere near the gains you are seeking.

And if you were somehow to make that much power, the stock cooling system is totall inadequate to shed that much heat. You will be having to stop every 10 minutes to cool it off.

And as grape mentioned, the blocks are somewhat suspect on these trucks, that level of power will surely lead to cracked bearing bosses, and ultimately, a broken crank, and lots of expensive sounding noises.

So what can you expect? A good solid running 6.5 is around 235-245 at the rear wheels. Increasing boost is good, but dont go much over 12lbs with stock pistons.

A better flowing exhaust is always a good idea. Gauges are a MUST if you start seeking more power. I can show you the $5500 check I wrote to the engine builder to replace the motor I trashed becuase I didnt have gauges.

Finally, and most importantly. Learn and understand the limitations of the 6.5. This engine is a generation (or two) older than the 'strokes, DMax's or Cummins. It was designed before the diesel horsepower war started. You cannot take a 6.5 and expect it to run with even a lightly modded newer diesel, anymore than you can expect an old flat head Ford to make as much power as a new LT1. No matter how much money you dump into it.

You can beat a stock one, but if you want to go running with the big dogs, the 6.5 is better left on the porch.

Tim

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

Well thanks for the replies. I do know that the newer diesels that have been modded are going to beat me in the power area. I am getting a perfomance cam and valve set for the engine. That being said, I obviously need to rethink my power aim. For the gauges, the list is, pyro, tach, boost, oil temp, tranny temp, and diff temp. For cooling the upgrades from SSDiesel, pump, fan, and a few other things. I can't afford a new Duramax right now, so this old 6.5 will have to do for now. Thanks for the info,

[DmaxMaverick]

Well thanks for the replies. I do know that the newer diesels that have been modded are going to beat me in the power area. I am getting a perfomance cam and valve set for the engine. That being said, I obviously need to rethink my power aim. For the gauges, the list is, pyro, tach, boost, oil temp, tranny temp, and diff temp. For cooling the upgrades from SSDiesel, pump, fan, and a few other things. I can't afford a new Duramax right now, so this old 6.5 will have to do for now. Thanks for the info,

I think you are going to be in for a big disapointment. At best, you will still be behind a stock late model Diesel. If you try to push it to be competitive, it will cost you more for your current plans, and your soon-to-be future rebuild(s), than a Duramax or Cummins repower now. I admire your optimism, but don't go where so many have gone before. Either do it right the first time, or do it many times wrong. Even if you see 275 HP on a dyno, it won't hold up on the road under any condition when you have to compete with the later trucks. Dyno plots can be misleading, and only show power under ideal conditions.

If you are keeping up with a 2006 PS, either that Ford is broken, or you aren't telling the whole story. The late 6.0's are very competitive by today's standards, and the 6.5 can't compete. You could get away with it if you have a garage full of disposible engines and a full time pit crew. Granted, there are exceptions, but they are few and far between. I can count on one hand the number of 6.5's that are in the competition, but they were built from the ground up with that in mind, and they will be maxed out where the later Diesels just begin. The annual TDP Pulloff is testement to that.

Good luck!

[ronniejoe]

Read up about the Pull-Off (http://www.thedieselpage.com/features/pulloff2006c.htm). My Suburban set a 6.5 record and is competitive with the LB7 and LLY Duramaxes. The LBZ upped the ante. However, I only had two days of operational experience with a new turbocharger before leaving for Montana. Turbine housing changes are being made and new programming will be on the way soon. There is more power available for the 6.5. However, as DmaxMaverick said, you have to build from the ground up.

By the way, you should check out Kennedy Diesel's offerings. His products have helped me get to the power levels that I have.

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

Don't worry I am telling the whole story, there's no reason why I wouldn't.:) I work at an International truck shop and the dyno/turbo tech there said that the truck would run 15-17 psi of boost okay. The truck has 21.5:1 compression. These are the numbers I got from GM. So are you saying that I would have to run lower compression? What about stroking or boring a diesel? Possible? I can't afford a new truck right now as I am working through first year and buying tools. But I would like to see what the limits are with this engine.

[murphyslaw]

I drove a '03 f350 with a psd the other day And I'll say it was the biggist dog i have ever drivin my stock 88 6.2 k3500 would have kept up with that thing. and it only had 62k on the dial. it was a total letdown.(and this was totaly empty no load and a 1/2 tank of fuel).

[DmaxMaverick]

15-17 PSI and you'll find the limits of a stock engine very quick. If you can't afford a rebuild now, how will you after you grenade it?

The advice you receive here is well meant. Others have already been where you are trying to go. The results are almost always the same. It's a gamble, and the odds are not in your favor.

[Robyn]

I am of the opinion that you can reliably build 275HP from a 6.5 and keep the thing alive, IF you cool it well and keep the EGT and boost under a watchful eye. You mash it and go for broke and you will melt the little diesel rat
Read all the info on cooling mods, exhaust and such.
As has been mentioned the 6.5 will not make the HP you are talking about without becoming a grenade and this you can take to the bank.
You can make a very respectable runner BUT you need to lower your expectations.
The 6.5 was never designed to withstand the stresses that those sort of numbers will place on things.
If you were talking about a 500 plus inch Gas rat you can get there and beyond easily without spending the national debt, but the 6.2/6.5 diesels wont do those magical numbers and live.
Good luck
Robyn

[dieseldummy]

As far as boring goes, I wouldn't take it past .030". I had one at .040" and it made the cyl walls to thin IMO. If you really want something special your best bet would be to call Penninsular and have them set you up. If you are on that tight of a budget then you shouldn't be (messing) with it. IMHO of course...

(edited by cowracer for language)

[Robyn]

Murph
I have owned a stroke, you are being kind compared to the tongue thrashing I gave the sucker.
My new to me 91 Burb is a delight compared to the stroke I had.
Once apon a time about 20 years ago My dad and I stuffed a 3208T Cat into a Ford F350 4X4 and backed it up with a small allison. The divorced T case hooked up fine with a little driveline magic. Now after we got the front end picked back off the asphalt and sprung right that beast would haul!!!!!!!.
Was noisy and shook the whole truck but it would pull a good load at speed.
Overkill me thinks

[NH2112]

My 6.5l is a '99 (piston cooler block), with an injector pump calibrated to deliver about 275 horses at the flywheel. I'm getting rid of the truck because I don't want to put any money into fixing things that need to be fixed for inspection, but if I was keeping it I'd get the pump recalibrated for the stock 230HP/440lb-ft, which I think would tow & haul almost as well but offer twice the lifetime with the stock block.

The 6.5l's main problems that limit its power are a block & heads that just don't have enough mass to handle a lot of power, don't have the usual 6 head bolts around each cylinder, and are prone to cracking, and a cast crank that's also on the lightweight side. Some blocks are better than others, with the best being the 599-block 6.2ls (thicker cylinder walls) and the latest 6.5l blocks made by AMG. The '82 6.2l blocks are apparently stronger than the later 6.2l blocks too.

I think that if you want that kind of power and expect to keep it together you'll have to swap in a 5.9l Cummins. A 3.9l 4-cyl Cummins will make as much power as a stock 6.5l and stay together longer as well.

[rfuntime]

Phil: Just curious , what kind of mileage are you getting with your 2wd, set up that way? Paul

[wade-ve7trw]

If You Want to see what happens when you punch out and trick up a 6.5 with 15lb boost and too too much propane. I will deliver the engine to you door step in your town the next time i am down that way for a visit to my favorite speed shop. The remains of the motor are in the back of my duelly. Hole #7 is just that after two practice runs down the strip--PS anyone need some paper weights-melted the pistons and just about everything else-good air cleaner:cool: :cool: :cool: :mad:

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

Don't get me wrong, I understand and really do appreciate that all information on this forum is meant with the best of intentions. Good points that if I can't afford an upgrade, how will I afford a new engine.:) For now I am happy with the power I get from it and the exhaust makes it sound like a semi when I'm gearing down.:D As for boring it, that is probably something that I could get done locally and then order the coinciding rings and such. The crank would have to be replaced I'm guessing after heavy mod. Maybe propane injection is a setup I should look at. I saw a setup on Kennedy diesel for $625 or around there. I do want to make this engine give maximum power while still being able to operate it for a while yet.

[DmaxMaverick]

I think you need to understand something about CID. Boring an engine will increase the CID, slightly, but that's not the only way. We are not talking about gassers under a shade tree here. CID is only a starting point on a TD engine. If you bore that 6.5, you won't gain ANY apreciable displacement. The only thing you will accomplish is weakening the structure. The trick with TD's is the turbo. Displacement is only a place to put air. Increase the air (boost), and you have virtually increased the CID. Fuel is only capable of producing a specific amount of energy under given conditions. The conditions must be met, or you waste fuel (more fuel, no more power). Injecting more fuel won't produce any results w/o more air. Boring a 6.5 for the purpose of increasing the CID is a bad idea, and will be counterproductive in many cases.

Another thing to consider, as said before, is heat. Power = heat. More power, more heat. A stock 6.5 system is designed to handle only so much, and it is easily exceeded, even in stock trim. Be prepared to upgrade your cooling system. Peninsular sells 400+ HP 6.5 engines, but they are intended for marine use. If you have a radiator measured in acre/feet, you can get away with much more than on the road. However, many of their upgrades are very effective on a terra firma engine.

There's a lot more info to be had here. Be careful the questions you ask. You might not like the answer.

[Robyn]

6.5 detroit

Hey there
I have been following this thread and I see where yo want to go.
I have been building nasty power plants for many years.
I have grenaded my share of $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ engines and cried a lot of tears over all the wasted $$$$$$$$$$.
The advice you are getting here on your 6.5 build is the stright scoop.
Many of the folks here have melted many of these little diesel rats trying to find big Horse pressure.
There is a limit and its very easy to see it.
Shoot for about 225 HP and get the sucker as efficient as possible (Mileage)
And enjoy some reliability.
Once you go up into the territory above 250 HP you need to be on top of the thing constantly watching EGT and Boost, water temp and so on.
It ceases to be a fun rig to drive and becomes a bloody job.
You drop your guard for a bit and Poof your little diesel rat fries to death.
Just try to console yourself to the fact that what you want is not attainable.
Get a small freightliner business class and have a pickup box installed.
You can get all the power you want in those rigs.

When I was young I had a 76 Ford F 250 4X4 and wanted Big Power.
The small diesels were not in vogue then. I installed a 427 Cammer in my truck and it built power beyond common sense. It was fuel hungry and if you got on it at the wrong time, one of two things happened.
Got a ticket or broke something.

Think long and hard about what you need versus what you want, ballance this with what your wallet can stand and then divide by 2.
Best to ya
Robyn

[ronniejoe]

6.5 detroit

There is a limit and its very easy to see it.
Shoot for about 225 HP and get the sucker as efficient as possible (Mileage)
And enjoy some reliability.
Once you go up into the territory above 250 HP you need to be on top of the thing constantly watching EGT and Boost, water temp and so on.
It ceases to be a fun rig to drive and becomes a bloody job.
You drop your guard for a bit and Poof your little diesel rat fries to death.


While I won't say that what he wants is attainable...yet...I will say, if done properly, a high output 6.5 is easier to drive than a stock one when towing or working it. The set up I have now, which is still being tweaked and will likely surprise some folks, runs cooler now than it ever has before. I think you might be surprised by its longevity as well. I rarely see 1200F egt and rarely see 200F ect. I also run 23 psi boost at 3600 rpm now with no worries.

[DmaxMaverick]

RJ

While I think I can safely say we all appreciate and respect your advancements with this engine, we also have to be responsible with the information and claims we share.

Your situation is unique. I've heard it too often about someone wanting to boost their performance, and they echo statements like "that engine will handle X amount of boost, or X amount of fuel". The problem is all the missing details. While you may be successful with your configuration, you can't just max out the boost and expect the same results on an otherwise stock engine. The statement of "23 PSI of boost" is misleading. Your engine is not stock. Your turbo is not stock. Your "soup" of components and tuning allows you to attain this level of performance.

Entry level "Diesel'ers" can be harmed by such claims, thinking that just because someone else can do it, they can too. They need to know, and understand, the whole picture.

[ronniejoe]

I respectfully disagree with you. If you look at the context, my earlier post in this thread directed him to read about the Pull-Off and then the articles that I wrote describing the "soup", as you call it, that it took to do this.

Here's the quote:

Read up about the Pull-Off (http://www.thedieselpage.com/features/pulloff2006c.htm). My Suburban set a 6.5 record and is competitive with the LB7 and LLY Duramaxes. The LBZ upped the ante. However, I only had two days of operational experience with a new turbocharger before leaving for Montana. Turbine housing changes are being made and new programming will be on the way soon. There is more power available for the 6.5. However, as DmaxMaverick said, you have to build from the ground up.

By the way, you should check out Kennedy Diesel's offerings. His products have helped me get to the power levels that I have. (emphasis added).

The post that I responded to from Robyn talked about going into the 250 hp range or above. She said that you have to constantly monitor the gages to keep from melting down. It simply is not true with my configuration. Documented power levels will come shortly (in addition to the Pull-Off performance).

My biggest problem with the responses to this thread is the negativity. Robyn, especially, seems to be very negative about the potential of the 6.5. I've read her disclaimer post, too. In fact, her negativity along with a couple of stupid attacks from other members are the reason that I havn't participated much lately in the discussions. I've been busy and dealing with other problems that life can throw at you and havn't had the stomach to deal with negativity here as well. Personally, I prefer to keep the dream alive for people, because a few years ago, I was sitting in 6.5 Detroit's position. The performance achieved by the TDP Project Truck gave me hope and inspired what I've done to date. If Jim had listened to all the naysayers (and there were many), he never would have built the Project engine. Then I never would have been able to do what I've done.

Sometimes the conventional wisdom is in error.

In conclusion, it's not fair for you to take my words out of context and accuse me of saying things that I didn't say. Rather than dump cold water all over a new guy's dream, why don't we show him what it takes to begin to approach his goal? Let him decide if it is worth it or not.

Just a thought.

[Cowracer]

I respectfully disagree with you. If you look at the context, my earlier post in this thread directed him to read about the Pull-Off and then the articles that I wrote describing the "soup", as you call it, that it took to do this.

Here's the quote:


The post that I responded to from Robyn talked about going into the 250 hp range or above. She said that you have to constantly monitor the gages to keep from melting down. It simply is not true with my configuration. Documented power levels will come shortly (in addition to the Pull-Off performance).

My biggest problem with the responses to this thread is the negativity. Robyn, especially, seems to be very negative about the potential of the 6.5. I've read her disclaimer post, too. In fact, her negativity along with a couple of stupid attacks from other members are the reason that I havn't participated much lately in the discussions. I've been busy and dealing with other problems that life can throw at you and havn't had the stomach to deal with negativity here as well. Personally, I prefer to keep the dream alive for people, because a few years ago, I was sitting in 6.5 Detroit's position. The performance achieved by the TDP Project Truck gave me hope and inspired what I've done to date. If Jim had listened to all the naysayers (and there were many), he never would have built the Project engine. Then I never would have been able to do what I've done.

Sometimes the conventional wisdom is in error.

In conclusion, it's not fair for you to take my words out of context and accuse me of saying things that I didn't say. Rather than dump cold water all over a new guy's dream, why don't we show him what it takes to begin to approach his goal? Let him decide if it is worth it or not.

Just a thought.

RJ, the conventional wisdom is both right and wrong in the case of the 6.5

IF (and its a big IF) they do like you, and methodically build and test, and compare and tweak, there quite a bit of untapped potential in the 6.5 that can suprise many people, as you have shown. But if, like most people, they just want to toss in a chip and a exhaust pipe, there will be some performance gains, but not the magic 300 HP, and surely if they dont understand the limitations that accompany the simple 'bolt-on' mods, then they could be well on the way to ruining their engine.

The 'negativity' you perceive is not really negativity. It is cautionary. Or maybe defensive. The 6.5 has a bad enough reputation (totally undeserved IMHO), we really dont need anyone else who chipped a stock 6.5 and tied the wastegate closed and thusly burnt the crowns off the pistons, going around to everyone he knows about what a POS our engines are.

I assure you that most (if not all) of the people on this board would like to help this young man (or anyone else) get the most out of his truck. But sometimes, the first step is reining them and making sure their enthusiasm dont get the better of them, like it did me last year.

Tim

[ronniejoe]

Again, I quote myself:

However, as DmaxMaverick said, you have to build from the ground up.


How can this be construed as suggesting a magic bullet?

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

Well, one thing's for sure - if a well-built 6.5 can be broken, RJ will get 'er done. He has a hard time remembering that there are other positions for the footfeed than the mat. :) The only downside is that if he DOES break his motor, it probably only proves that anything can be broken if driven hard enough; if he doesn't (& that hopefully will be a long time in finding out), his ideas about this engine attain a much higher value. My money's on RJ, but he is a good friend. ;)

And Ron, they are NOT being negative, just trying to caution a DP newbie. If I were 6.5 Detroit Diesel, I'd be grateful for the level of caution in our combined advice. (Guess that kills the "friend" comment, eh? Well, OK then, my brother.)

Blessings!

[dieseldummy]

Enough of us here have grenaded enough parts to know that any added power to stock parts is to much. Ususally stock power is too much. Not everyone has the $$ or the stomach to deal with getting splayed mains so that severly limits the power potential that most people have to deal with. There is also no hard proof that this is the answer to our problems.

Most of us here have learned that the 6.5 is fine with stock power. Most of us have also found out that the 6.5 wasn't designed to compete with the Cummins, Powerstroke, or Dmax. It's fine if a select few think that the majority of us are to negative about the 6.5. The majority of us aren't in the business of selling motors either...

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

Sorry but I kind of feel that I have stirred up a bit of a hornets nest here. To start with, I am not a completly new person to diesel or gas engines. On the other hand I am definetely not near as experienced as most of the primary contributors of these forums. I can't chip my truck and I'm sure not trying to just throw on a few easy upgrades that will power for only a while. I want to build a strong engine that will make the most power available while still be just as driveable as stock. So I do understand I will need major upgrades on the points of cooling and components strength. But please don't let my quest for power turn everybody on each other!:eek: This is one of the best forum's I've seen yet:) and I like the amount of info available. And as was said by one contributor, instead of telling me why I can't do one thing, show me what I can safely do. Thanks,

[big61fourby]

If you want more power, I'd say go for it. I don't see anything wrong with that. BUT, with a 6.5, this comes at a considerable cost. RJ's motor looks like a great place to start, but a very basic cost/benefit analysis says there is no way I could consider such an option at this point in my life. Not only would this option cost more than I paid for my truck, but it's also roughly the same as my total yearly income. While this will change DRAMATICALLY when I graduate in May, I have to realize that more power at this point just isn't going to happen. Maybe you're situation is different, but that's where I'm at.

IMHO, more power can be had from a 6.5, but $$/HP, I just don't see how it's competitive with other engines, so I'm saving my pennies and looking at upgrading when finances allow.

You're obviously in the right place for info on 6.5 TD performance--many people here have vast amounts of real-life experience with this motor. I make a point to listen when people with more knowledge and experience than myself give advice, and I've learned a great deal from hours of reading here.

[wade-ve7trw]

Do not take anyone wrong or right,We all have gone the distance with the dream of more power. Myself I have been drag racing for a number of years with gasser and diesel power--Chevy; ford gassers and Cat powered trucks(
ford L8000).When I started on my latest project(a 9 sec 6.2l) I found a vast amount of information in the pages of TheDieselPage that has helped me aceive a lot of the goal. By next Spring and the start of the drag season I hope to be able to shave 3.2sec off my best time and be in the 9 sec bracket. More power to you 6.5 Detroit Diesel if you can get to you goal and may we will all wish you the best of luck and help getting there.

P.S. To all the members of TDP thanks for all the information you have shared here that has help me. Wade-ve7trw.


Go For It.

[gmctd]

Boost and pre-turbine EGT gages most important, here - siezed pistons

1st - timing chainset and nylon rocker arm keepers, at 310kklicks - restores oem power, driveability

thoroughly scrutinize harmonic balancer for deterioration = broken crank @ #2

thoroughly scrutinize dual mass flywheel for deterioration = broken crank @ #4

pull pan to scrutinize mains webbing = broken block @ #2-#3-#4, possibly crank also

next - '97 cooling mods, clean out the space between the rad and the ac condenser - siezed #6-#8 piston(s)

Boost and pre-turbine EGT gages most important, here - siezed pistons

next - GM-8 turbo to reduce EBP, easiest, or modified Holset HX-35 - reduces EBP, EGT's

next - turn up the DB2 1/8th turn - increases EGT's

charge-air cooler - reduces IAT, reduces EGT's, more sustainable power

start looking into stabilizing the mains-webbing - splayed mains, real mains girdle, etc

then 18:1 pistons, head studs, etc

Boost and pre-turbine EGT gages most important, here - siezed pistons

Try it - you'll like it.............

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

Well thanks again to everyone for the info:D:) .I have e-mailed Penisular about pricing on higher hp engines but they still haven't got back to me.:confused: I was intending to put $5,000 into the engine come springtime. But from that point, if Penisular isn't to much more, (a couple k) then maybe I will just do that. I want to get this truck on a dynometer before Christmas so that I will know for fact what I am working from. I also want to do a writeup and pictures with the rebuild. (If I do it.) I do really like this truck so am willing to become commited. (Sounds like I'm getting married or somethin':eek: ) Maybe a transmission swap to an Inter. 6+. (Now I'm dreaming.:p ) 6" Lift this spring with 36"X12.5" tires on maybe some Eagles with 4" backspacing.:o Remove shocks and put in airbags from semi truck. Build in custom electric compressor and 2 gallon air tank with pressure switch. Dual 5" stacks.:) Oops, what's that? NASA just called about shooting for the stars? Hey, at least I'll land somewhere. As long as it's not a melted engine.:mad: Thanks for the help guys.

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

After our rambling discussion, I thought maybe back to the beginning might be worthwhile. (Please remember when reading, I don

[john8662]

Heck (didn't wanna use the other word for obvious reasons above)..

I'd say go for it.

Find the best block $ can buy, and add some do-dads. You'll likely find that a mildly modified 6.5 is way more fun than you thought it would be.

It's torque baby!

Who cares what it does at the dyno on paper anyways?

Just remember tho, don't drop no nuts down the intake, any engine WILL break, then you'll find everyone else's mistakes! And, it'll end your 6.5 career.

J

[dieseldummy]

And, it'll end your 6.5 career.



No, nothing can end a persons 6.5 career... I may get turned into a 6.2 based career, but not end it. ;)

[Robyn]

Speaking of dropping stuff down into the engine.
A while back I was down to the round house helping the guys work on the steam locomotive and the head fellow in charge of restorations was working on a vintage diesel locomotive and a couple of the younger volunteers has left some exhaust flange nuts laying around the ports on top of the engine and a couple fell through the open valve. (These are huge suckers)
They rolled the mighty beast over to start it up and there was a BIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIG CARUNCH and thudbangdong and it was all stopped and broken.
Two 5/8" nuts took out the head on that cylinder as well as the piston and the liner.
$1000.00 later for a used head, piston and liner its running.
Was some serious asp chewing over that one.
KIDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDSSS not quite house broke me thinks.