head gasket

[jtro24]

Does anyone know where you can get a step by step manual for installing head gaskets in a 6.2 diesel? thanks

[wthif]

http://www.thedieselpage.com/t&rguide.htm

Do take your hood off for more room. It would be easier, but I did it with mine on.

[Robyn]

OK grasshopper
1- remove hood
2- drain coolant
3- remove radiator and shroud along with belts hoses and accessories to get room to get into the engine bay.
4- unbolt exhaust pipes from the manifolds.
5- remove manifolds from engine
6-blow off the intake manifold with air and unbolt and remove.
7- number and remove the fuel injector lines. Make a map of where they go on the IP too. Number one is the drivers front cyl and number 2 is pass front.
left is 1357 right is 2468
mark the lines and keep them in the pairs they are in dont break them apart.
8- Cover the fittings on the IP and the injectors to keep dirt out.
9- unhook the electrical wires from the glow plugs
10- Remove the valve covers
11- remove the rocker arm assemblies and keep them in order so you can place them back where they came from.
12- remove the push rods. be sure when you remove them to mark which end is up at the rocker end and keep them so you can place them back that way. The pushrods are location specific (one end is hardened and goes to the rocker and the other is not, if the ball end is copper colored it goes up
13- Remove the head bolts and then the heads.
14- The head bolts, now these bolts are a one time use TTL bolt so you will need a new set to reassemble.
15- Clean the heads and have them checked for cracks and or pressure leaks.
some cracks in the area between the valves is normal.
16- Be sure the block is clean and undamaged.
17- Reassemble the unit in the reverse order. Dont use any sealer on the gaskets, place them on the block dowels as they come from the package.
18- The head bolts must be torqued in a series of three stages through the patern. step one to value X step two to value Y and then one quarter turn more. The bolts will have instructions with them. Napa sells the bolt sets.
19- finish the thing fill with coolant and your good to go.

[jtro24]

thank you very much!

[Robyn]

You are welcome
I may have forgotten some small details but just go slow and pay attention and anything you really need to do will be quite evident.
You may want to order a new set of exhaust manifold and header pipe flange bolts as these can get pretty ugly after much time and miles.
Be sure to use never seaze on the exhaust bolts.
Your new head bolts should come coated with a silicone (orange coating) dont use anything else on them, just install them as they are. If they are not coated use high temp silicone black or orange on the threads or you can dip the bolts in liquid high tack before installing.
The whole issue is that the bolts go through to water and must be sealed to prevent antifreeze from seeping around the threads and getting into the oil.

Good luck and kepp us posted

Robyn

[JeepSJ]

Also remember to clean the threads in the block for the head bolts. Dirty threads can affect the torque. I always run a tap through them to clean out the junk. Also, put a few drops of oil under the head of the bolt when you install it.

[NH2112]

The only change I'd make to Robyn's list is I think it's easier to remove the injector pump with the lines attached, instead of removing just the lines.

[jtro24]

Thanks Robyn, do you also remove the governor?

[Robyn]

Governor????????????
If you are refering to the large unit in the valley area just aft of the oil fill, this is the injection pump.
I personally would not but you can do it with all the lines attached.
You must remove the oil filler pipe and go in through the opening to get to the bolts that hold the drive gear onto the pump assembly.
I feel that is far too invasive and I just mark and remove the high pressure lines.

[Craig M]

Our local 6.2/6.5 mechanic does it as NH2112 sugested. Take the injector off with the lines attached.

[jtro24]

thanks Roybn and Craig, I know I can do this its just all a little new to me right now. One thing that would really help is mabey one of your phone numbers for quick access, trust me it won't be abused.
going back and forth on computer is fine but don't always have time to check it. P.S here is one more stupid question, do you drain the oil also?


thanks Joel

[wthif]

P.S here is one more stupid question, do you drain the oil also?


Personally I wouldn't change it until you get it started after reassembly. Either get it started for ten minutes or take it for a very short light drive and shut it off and then change. This way you can hopefully get anything out you got into the engine oil.

Though I would do what Robyn says, she has a whole lot more experience with these things than I do.

[Robyn]

I disagree
If this thing has been ingesting Glycol you need to drain it out NOW
Drain the water out first at least untill the radiator is empty.
Drain the oil completely and remove the filter. Replace the filter with a cheapy and fill the thing with oil. Restart and run about 1 minute then shut off and drain the pan again. This wont heat the engine too much and will wash out any remaining Glycol.
Glycol will eat the bearings up real fast. Unless you are going to rebuild the engine completely you need to get that stuff out of the engine NOW.

[DmaxMaverick]

I agree with Robyn on this one.

Change that oil BEFORE running it. Change it after it gets up to temp. Change it again after a few hundred miles of running. You can use an engine flush, ATF, or MMO to help clean it out before the final change and back to normal service intervals. Oil/filters are cheap. You can use the cheapest oil you find for the flushing changes (even non C rated), as it won't be in long enough to take advantage of the oil's additive package. The key is to get any contaminants out and start with a clean engine.