Engine shuts down

[tomking]

While driving my engine will just shut down almost like the ignition was turned off. I drop the tranny in neutral and it starts right up, put it in drive and all is ok. May happen several times in a row then not happen for days. The local dealer can't find any error codes and problem doesn't happen when he has the truck. (at least so far) Any ideas?

2002 2500HD stock

[More Power]

Intermittents are some of the hardest problems to resolve, in that you can't find a fault with a working system. Just a guess, but it sounds like you're losing an ignition power circuit or there is a connection problem. A bad wire, bad relay, bad ignition switch, poor fuse connection, poor electrical connector connection, etc....

Check the battery cable connections (remove, clean & re-tighten), check ground connections (cab to chassis, cab to engine, engine to frame, etc.).

Is there a remote start/security system installed (or had one installed at some point)?

Jim

[tomking]

Thanks Jim,

So the dealer connected a monitor and gave the truck back to me to drive. Of couse the problem happened again in the 1st 20 miles.. a good thing... it turns out some wiring harness to the crank shaft sensor is faulty...well at least that what they are saying at this point... So it is being replaced today.

Will let you know if that fixes it.

Tom

[tomking]

So.... The dealer replaced the crankshaft speed sensor and wiring harness and off I go.... 3 days later same thing, driving along flat and level then bang the engine quits. Shift to neutral, turn the key and she starts right up, drop it back in drive and off I go like nothing happened. I think this is going to turn into a real saga. Oh by the way I had the fuel filter changed while it was in the shop just to try to eliminate that as a source of the problem.

Tom

[More Power]

I would want to begin the process of elimination. Once the battery terminals have been removed, cleaned then reinstalled, I'd rig a monitor for the various ignition circuits. Eliminating or identifying the ign sw as the cause would be my next goal.

Jim

[oneton]

Yesterday while driving down the interstate at 70 mph the truck just died. Tach went haywire jumping all over the place. I pulled over and completely shut the truck down. Waiting a few minutes and she fired up as normal. Didn't have any problems the rest of the day. The truck needed to be serviced anyway so I dropped it off at the dealer for an alignment and have the fuel filter replaced. ( I normally do it, but if GM is going to pay for a new one and provide labor while I sit back and relax, then I'll take the chance) LOL

Well it turns out I needed an idler arm ( Damn those are expensive), replace the brake fluid and a coolant system flush. I hadn't service either since I had the truck, 130,000 later, so I sprung for it, seeing that I'm getting ready to drive to the left coast.


So any clue why my truck would just shut down?



Thanks
David

[oneton]

What is going on? I just went out to put the windows up in the truck and now I've got a buzzing coming from the over head speaker. Electrial gremlin? Connected?








David

[DmaxMaverick]

Check your battery condition and connections/grounds. A dead/dying battery can cause either of your issues.

[oneton]

Thanks DM, I'll give it look tomorrow.









David

[Mark Rinker]

If the stock OEM batteries are still in, I'd swap them for a set of Optima reds. My '01s went at 150K and betting '02s will be replaced very soon.

[oneton]

OEM batteries are were replaced about a year ago. One died and the other sprung a leak. Both replaced at the same time. I also checked all the connections and everything is clean. I still got a buzz coming from the overhead speaker so I don't know what's going on. The truck hasn't quit on me again but I'll be driving almost 5000 miles and this will be in the back of my mind the whole trip. Not very comforting to say the least.


How would the truck react to a fuel filter issue? I was overdue on the filter, would that have anything to do with the truck shutting down? If so, I may have two problems instead of one.




Thanks
David

[Jamie Kennedy]

Did you try an ignition switch yet, sounds like the same repair that I delt with two months ago. JK

[oneton]

TomKing, I just had the same thing happen to me, TODAY! I posted under the heading " Truck quit running" It happened once last week, pulled off the side of the road, waited for a few minutes and fired right back up. Everything seemed normal for over a week until today. She died on me this morning but this time she wouldn't fire back up. Waited 15 min and then she started but then died after idleing for two minutes. While I was on the phone with my friend ( who owns a towing company) she fired up again but this time with the SES light on. I'm baffled so the dealer will look at it today and see what they can do. I'll inform them that the crank sensor fix doesn't work. Man to I love this site!!

I need to figure this out soon. I supposed to leave for CA on Friday.







David

[oneton]

IT HAPPENED AGAIN TODAY!! I've got the same problem as TomKing.



Any clues! I need this resolved fast!








David

[DmaxMaverick]

Is the SES light on? You need to check for stored DTC's. If there are none, you very likely have an electrical interuption or poor connection somewhere. If it's an engine sensor or connection losing communication, there should be at least one code stored, even if the SES isn't on. If it's the ignition switch or that circuit losing contact, there may or may not be any codes stored.

You really need to get the codes read first. These problems are very difficult to diagnose at a distance.

[oneton]

Yeah, the last time I fired up the truck the SES was on. So hopefully the dealership will get and answer to this quickly.








David

[DmaxMaverick]

I merged the two threads together. Seems like they are near enough you both may be chasing the same problem, and one thread should make running it down easier.

If the SES light is on, then there are codes stored. If that's the case, it could be a very simple fix. The PCM will generally tell you where it hurts, or get you looking in the right direction.

Let us know what codes they find.

[oneton]

Thanks DM. I'll post when I find out something.




BTW, merging the two is great idea even though some of post will seem out of context/order.





David

[oneton]

Ok, I got word today that they believe it's one of two problems. They want to change out the CPS first, which has to come from Isuzu. There isn't a dealership that has one anywhere here. The second repair would be to change out the second part of the CPS. I don't know jack about this but they said they'll have to drop the engine to fix it. Does this sound right? I'm waiting on a return call for the code that it threw. I'll post it as soon as I get it.


On edit, the code the truck threw was 0335. The part that they are taking about changing if the CPS fix doesn't work is called a reluctor (sp).




Thanks
David

[oneton]

I re-upped my Alldata subscription to take a look at what the dealership was talking about. I've circled the gear that they're talking about. Would there be any reason for a part like this to fail? BTW, it's called an "exciter ring"


[Sorry David. Your image is copyright by Alldata. You can post a link to it, though. Anyone with an Alldata subscription could view it then. Please PM/email me or Jim with any questions/concerns. We gotta be careful these days]




Thanks
David

[oneton]

umm. Okay.


I'm wondering why they would let the pictures be printed then if their was a copyright issue. Nothing on the sheet says that it was copyrighted or even a heading with their name. Plus I hosted it from my site. Anyway, I understand about being careful.





Thanks
David

[DmaxMaverick]

It makes sense. If you read their use policy, it will be very similar to ours. You are allowed to view the contents, and print one copy for your own, personal, non-commercial use.

I am sorry, but it just has to be that way. We have to abide the same rules (laws) we expect others to follow. Copyrights are pretty straight forward. If the item is not yours, someone else holds the copyright. There is no such thing as "public domain" just because something is posted on the internet. Take this thread, for example. It is automatically copyright TDP, and cannot be reproduced outside of the use policy without express permission. That's just the way it is, and is that way throughout the internet.

The proper way to do what you did is to ask them for permission. Very likely, they would say yes, as long as you give them full credit, and post a link to the source. Another way to do it is use something out of context, like a cropped portion of the image. If it is for the purpose of non-profit discussion, debate or satire (other restrictions on satire), it is less than 10% of the context, and proper acknowledgement is given, you can use it.

My apologies for getting this off topic, but I think it is something everyone should know. We have these policies posted several places on the website, but the problem is getting folks to read, understand, and abide it. I don't read the use policy of every website I visit, so I don't expect that everyone else will. Most every website has a use policy. Whether or not they choose to enforce it is up to them.

[oneton]

Alrightly then. No more of that.

So back to my question. The code P0335 was thrown for the Crankcase position sensor. Did anybody change it out and have it not fix the problem after it threw a code for it?






Thanks
David

[Mark Rinker]

So...what was the resolution?

[oneton]

I have no clue yet! The stealership is stalling for some reason. Said the part would be here today and it didn't show up. They said it has to come directly from Isuzu. Well, I just had a friend call up his contact this evening to see if one was available locally. There's one in the next county over. WTF!


Anybody have the part number for a CPS for an 02? (Alldata didn't have the part number listed) I want to check the locator myself. If there is one local, I'm going to print out the list and march my "happy" ass down there tomorrow.





End of rant

David

[DmaxMaverick]

GM part #97249413. This is an old #, and may be updated.

[oneton]

Thanks DM! I ran it thru and the closest is Miami under that part number. I'm going to call my parts guy in the morning and see if there an updated part number and check availablity.





Thanks for the help.



David

[DmaxMaverick]

DO NOT use that number. I did some more checking, and 01, 03 and 04 are the same (that # is good for those). For some reason, 2002 is different. Go figure!

I'll see what I can find for 02. You said alldata didn't have the number? Check under parts and labor under ignition/CPK. It is listed for all other years, but I don't have access to a 2002 alldata.

[oneton]

Yeah DM, Alldata didn't list the part number under the Parts & Labor section. Even did a search to see if it was somewhere else, but no luck. Of course they have everything else under the sun listed but the part I need. I'll post back tomorrow with an update.







Thanks
David

[DmaxMaverick]

I found your part through several parts suppliers (Rockauto, Autozone, Napa, Kragen), but couldn't cross it to a GM #. If you are paying for this yourself, it would be about half the cost of GM if you go with an aftermarket, and you could do it yourself and save on the labor, too.

[oneton]

Alright, made a few phone calls this morning and found the correct part number which is 25366549. It's the latest and up to date part # for the 02 crank position sensor. Of course it's not it stock. At first the parts guy, where my truck is being fixed, gave me the wrong part # and even told me it was in stock. I was just about to blow a gasket when he told me. But before I did I called another dealer to verify the part. (I never trust just one source). So it looks like I'm stuck until the new CPS comes in.






David

[oneton]

Good news! I found a CPS in the next county over. Shot out of here as soon as the paperwork was done. I drove over a hundred miles round trip to get the sensor to the dealer today. So hopefully tomorrow I'll have my truck back. Stay tuned!








David

[oneton]

Truck is up and running again. Picked it up this morning and she hasn't missed a beat all day. So tomorrow morning at 3am I'm heading out for a 6000 mile trek across this great land. I pray the dealer fixed my truck right..LOL




David

[DmaxMaverick]

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/images/icons/icon14.gif

Sounds good. Enjoy your trip.

[tomking]

Well here is what it turned out to be... apparently anyway cause I've had the truck back on the road for 2 weeks and no glitches.(knocking on wood) The dealer spent about 6 hours pulling every ground connection, cleaned and replaced, nothing more than that... go figure. I guess they talked to the techs at GM for quite a while and the general consensus was that the communication buss was floating due to a bad ground. So far that seems to be what the problem was. Anyway I am not complaining because I back up an running strong

Thanks for all the good ideas,
Tom

[oneton]

Well, I'm back. After 9612 miles the truck never missed a beat so I have to give the dealer credit for fixing this one right the first time. All I can say is that I'm glad I bought this truck. The first leg was from FL to PA hauling my 94 ex-cab dually on the newly aquired 20' gooseneck with the outboard tires sitting on top of the rails. What a site! I only checked milage once and it was around 10.5 hauling the dually thru the hills of WV and PA. The rest of the trip was around 13.6 with hauling a car from WA back to PA. Dead heading back to FL the best I got was 16.52 which isn't too bad towing a triple axle goose behind you. So it's time to pamper the old girl. She did good this trip. LOL



Thanks
David

[Stratosurfer]

I agree, I am having a stalling while driving and immediate ability to restart after pulling over, and had a previous issue with a battery terminal stripping out that produced similar symptoms. I pulled the battery, had to drill out the spinning in the battery terminal and installed an Optima Red with a threaded rod inserted as the new terminal on a tip from a mechanic. Now that battery is nice and tight and of no suspect in my new stalling issue.
I am focusing on the other battery for cleaning terminals and installing threaded rods (cut to fit) and using a nut/lockwasher to install and then trace down the chassis ground.
But not sure where it's located, I'll go digging around.
I have studied the chassis ground isssue and it seems that needs to be a primary place to look on -any- vehicle approaching 10 years old. Any corrosion or roadfilm combination coating can greatly reduce the contact there, greatly undermining all sensitive electronic's packages required to get the 'crate' running.
Any tips on where the Chassis ground happens on my 98 Burb is appreciated.







Intermittents are some of the hardest problems to resolve, in that you can't find a fault with a working system. Just a guess, but it sounds like you're losing an ignition power circuit or there is a connection problem. A bad wire, bad relay, bad ignition switch, poor fuse connection, poor electrical connector connection, etc....

Check the battery cable connections (remove, clean & re-tighten), check ground connections (cab to chassis, cab to engine, engine to frame, etc.).

Is there a remote start/security system installed (or had one installed at some point)?

Jim