Strange frontend squeal

[Chris Hays]

Recently during a right turn at about half to full lock on the wheel, the truck makes a whining, squeal kind of sound from the front end. At first i thought it was the ps pump on its way out but then during further investigation, it only does it while im in motion, either forward or reverse. I then thought it may be the rubbers on the cv's but they would not make a noise that loud. The tires are not doing it and im in 2wd. I have not had a chance to thoughrouly inspect the steering/suspension components, but a quick look and feel around under the front end showed nothing of suspicion or probable cause of this noise. I only noticed it about a week after the dealership had replaced a ps hose, but i don't know if this could be related as only does it while moving the vehicle (not just by turning the steering wheel). If anyone has had this symptom or knows what it could be i would appreiciate the help as im covered up with work right now and dont have time to check it as its always dark when im parked. I may look at it this weekend.

[DmaxMaverick]

A few things come to mind right off.

Debris of some sort stuck in the wheel, disc, or hub.

Brake wear indicator. Even if the brakes aren't worn, the indicator could have been bent on installation or rotation, or struck by debris.

Wheel bearing. Jack the wheel off the ground and check it for movement. It should be solid. Any in/out movement at the top/bottom could mean a failing bearing.

CV joint. Any movement other than very slight in/out end play is bad, and only gets worse. The front axles turn all the time, even in 2wd with the front end unlocked.

[Chris Hays]

I think its a wheel bearing. While driving around today i noticed a new rough sound and a feeling like a slight flat spot on a tire. When swerving to the right it goes away thus this indicates a right wheel bearing as im taking the weight off it. Need to jack it up in the morning and check it. Guess ill have to leave it as is for now due to tight deadlines on present jobs. Get it swapped out at next available down time.

[DmaxMaverick]

I drove mine around for about 15K (even towing 13K+) before I diagnosed the problem correctly. Eventually, it started vibrating above 30 MPH. Before that, it didn't have enough slop to convince me. These bearing assy's are pretty stout. www.gmpartsdirect.com or www.rockauto.com has them at about the best price. Still, it's scary when you go for the credit card. At the time I did mine, I was out of town and had to get it from a dealer. His lowest (jobber) cost was more than gmpd or ra. Be sure to order the nut at the same time (or make sure your mech. does it). The self-locking axle nuts (36mm hex) are not reusable. Torque on the nut is 177 lb/ft. Careful with the sensor harness. Damage that, and you'll have to start all over. The sensor mount bolt is is 13 lb/ft, and the sensor harness/brake line bolt is 106 lb/inch. The hub to knuckle bolt torque is 133 lb/ft. The hub/knuckle bolts will be VERY tight. You will need an impact wrench, or lots of patients. I did mine while out town, camping, and had to use 2 end wrenches (Craftsman), and lowered the truck onto the wrenches to loosen them. Even then, it took about 15 minutes of the full front end truck weight on them to break them loose. It worked, but I wouldn't want to make a habit of it. Destroyed both wrenches in the process, but it had to be done.

[Chris Hays]

Changed hub and it was out in a big way. Top and bottom of wheel when jacked up would move in and out about 3"!! Wouldnt have driven it so far if i knew it was that bad!

[Rick Henderson]

Is there a reason why these are failing? I was told that they are sealed units and you can't service them. My truck is also squealing on the right frontend. I have 227,000 on my 03 GMC Duramax.

[DmaxMaverick]

Is there a reason why these are failing? I was told that they are sealed units and you can't service them. My truck is also squealing on the right frontend. I have 227,000 on my 03 GMC Duramax.

I don't think we should over-analyze this. The hubs are generally very reliable and long lived. They do fail, but not more than I would consider consistent with "normal" failure due to manufacturing defects or exceptional circumstances. Of the dozen or so IFS GM vehicles I've had the pleasure of owning or maintaining, only a couple have needed replacement. I am not aware of any failure responsible for a catastrophic event. The just make noise and hang in there until replaced. For lack of a better term, a good design, IMO.

[Rick Henderson]

I was thinking that maybe I wasn't properly maintaining the front end somehow. I missed rotating my tires and paid the price once.

Thanks

[Rick Henderson]

I drove mine around for about 15K (even towing 13K+) before I diagnosed the problem correctly. Eventually, it started vibrating above 30 MPH. Before that, it didn't have enough slop to convince me. These bearing assy's are pretty stout. www.gmpartsdirect.com or www.rockauto.com has them at about the best price. Still, it's scary when you go for the credit card. At the time I did mine, I was out of town and had to get it from a dealer. His lowest (jobber) cost was more than gmpd or ra. Be sure to order the nut at the same time (or make sure your mech. does it). The self-locking axle nuts (36mm hex) are not reusable. Torque on the nut is 177 lb/ft. Careful with the sensor harness. Damage that, and you'll have to start all over. The sensor mount bolt is is 13 lb/ft, and the sensor harness/brake line bolt is 106 lb/inch. The hub to knuckle bolt torque is 133 lb/ft. The hub/knuckle bolts will be VERY tight. You will need an impact wrench, or lots of patients. I did mine while out town, camping, and had to use 2 end wrenches (Craftsman), and lowered the truck onto the wrenches to loosen them. Even then, it took about 15 minutes of the full front end truck weight on them to break them loose. It worked, but I wouldn't want to make a habit of it. Destroyed both wrenches in the process, but it had to be done.


Thank you for posting this. I got the hub yesterday and installed it in about 45 minutes with a couple of rotors and brake pads to boot. The trick is the having all of the tools to get it done. I used a big breaker bar to loosen the bolts. Then the Craftsman electric impact wrench to take them the rest of the way off.

The only problem that I had was the drivers side rotor was stuck to the hub. Got a big hammer and a little PB Blaster and off she came.

Sounds and drives much better now. Also noticed that there was a grease zerk that has been missed. It is hidden under the hub area.

[jbplock]

... Sounds and drives much better now. Also noticed that there was a grease zerk that has been missed. It is hidden under the hub area.

Rick,

Glad to hear of your success http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/images/icons/icon14.gif .. I'm also curious about the zerk location you mentioned .. is it the one on the lower ball joint ?

:)

[Rick Henderson]

Rick,

Glad to hear of your success http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/images/icons/icon14.gif .. I'm also curious about the zerk location you mentioned .. is it the one on the lower ball joint ?

:)

It must be. I will look at it in the morning.

[DmaxMaverick]

There are 11 total zerks for the front end. Count to make sure you are getting them all. They shouldn't be "hidden", but the some can be missed if you don't look for them. All 11 are pretty easy to get to if the truck is on a lift or over a pit, which is how I do it, every oil change.