Batteries Again

[gmenor]

Batteries are becoming a yearly replacement item for me. I just replaced the Red Optimas from last year. Good thing is that replacement from Autozone didn't cost a cent due to the 3 year warranty. This is the 10th set of batteries for me in the last 6 years. Anyone have any similiar problems? Something not battery related is an unusual amount of noise from the front end when moving. It has always been there and I can never seem to track it down - thoughts, comments?

[donr]

I was noticing a pulsing of the headlights when driving at night, so I put a digital voltmeter connection in the power outlet, or lighter, on the dash and got readings of 12 volts to 14.8 while driving. Installed a new alternator and now fluctuations are .2 volt max. I don't know if it will extend the life of the batteries, but it can't hurt. Pulsing stopped. The old alternator kept the batteries up ok, but would it have shortened their life? I think so.

[Hubert]

Overcharging does shorten the life of a battery.

If it always has plenty of juice even after long periods of sitting. It might be overcharging. If it seems to be weaker after sitting then might be a "leaking" short somewhere.

[landrea]

On both of my 6.5's I'm lucky to get 1.5 years out of a set of batteries and about 1.5 years out of an alternator not at the same time.Good news is I bought GM lifetime alternators so they are replaced FREE.Now I switched to Optima batteries on one truck and was so impressed I installed them on truck #2,so we'll see how long they last.Both are tow trucks with lots of lights and plenty of drain on the electric so I'm not too PO'd.

[BobND]

My 1994 had some 50,000 miles when I bought it, about 6 or 7 years ago. Now it has 180,000.

I have NEVER touched the alternator, and have replaced the batteries ONCE.

What the heck do you guys do to your stuff???

[DA BIG ONE]

It may be the battery quality (bad batch).

I have had various problems relating to same type of battery just going dead w/o warning and not taken a charge unless force fed some very high amps, then go to not taken a charge at all.

However, I have not heard of any of their other color batteries haven this problem, so, been considering the deep cycle type for my burb.

Flickering headlight issue has come to my door too, so I'll be using multymeter to try to track down fault.

[Hansh]

Are you sure it is the battery? Check ALL your connections, especially ALL your grounds. I have 5 years on my batteries. Not sure of life on my alternator, but I have not replaced it since owning the truck, over 5 years and 80k miles. Thought about having it rebuilt when I changed the engine, but the local rebuilder advised me that the alternators in the GM diesels are usually good for a long, long time and it would be a waste of money at this time. There must be something else causing your battery and alternator to go bad so quickly. When I worked as a mechanic, I would see some bad batteries, but I have also seen batteries go for 7 plus years.

[G. Gearloose]

My experience with people mistakenly puting deep cycle batteries for starting v8 marine engines because they or the salesmen thinks marine always equals deep cycle is; they often end up burning up wires, solenoids and starters due the high internal resistance of deep cycle batteries, limiting the voltage the amps are delivered at, causing slower cranking speeds and the extra amps cooking the components, but overall, low power delivered causes extended duty cycles and solenoid contacts to weld together, causing the starter to never shut off and then fries.

A DC motor pulls less amps the faster it spins, and vice versa; Deep Cyc batteries result in slower rpms and lower delivered voltage, due to the high current across the batteries internal resistance.

Stay away from the fish-motor batteries, may work for a honda..

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by G. Gearloose:
My experience with people mistakenly puting deep cycle batteries for starting v8 marine engines because they or the salesmen thinks marine always equals deep cycle is; they often end up burning up wires, solenoids and starters due the high internal resistance of deep cycle batteries, limiting the voltage the amps are delivered at, causing slower cranking speeds and the extra amps cooking the components, but overall, low power delivered causes extended duty cycles and solenoid contacts to weld together, causing the starter to never shut off and then fries.

A DC motor pulls less amps the faster it spins, and vice versa; Deep Cyc batteries result in slower rpms and lower delivered voltage, due to the high current across the batteries internal resistance.

Stay away from the fish-motor batteries, may work for a honda.. Thanks, I learn something almost everyday here in this forum.

[gmenor]

BobND,
I had to change the alternator once during my 196,000 plus miles. Batteries are a different issue. The AC/Delco batteries just seem to burn up really fast. Also when I do change out the batteries it is done in tandum - only had one occasion when only one was bad. As for what have I done to the Burb absolutely nothing. I conduct the monthly tasks of giving the ground wires a once over along with other inspections. Now if I can track the irritating noise from the front end I'd be happy, no happier

[rjschoolcraft]

Make sure you check your positive cables...

These have a known tendency to corrode causing slow cranking speed. They can also shorten a battery's life because of high resistance. I changed batteries and a starter before I figured out that my cables were the main problem.

[JohnC]

10 years, 137,000 miles and -20 F winter temps and I'm still on my second set of batteries. You guys must not be living right...

;)

[G. Gearloose]

Hmmm, I resemble that statement, JohnC, just a touch warmer..

[TTM]

Good timing for this topic for me, I just replaced the glow plugs, and lately on cold mornings (5-8C) still getting a decent cranking speed but the motor chugs slowly for like 2.0sec then catches and runs to the proper idle then runs fine. I don't think I'm getting enough cranking speed and I'm thinking it's the batteries. I have one original battery (94) and one replaced in 98. Do any of you guys know how to do a draw test or battey test?

[markrinker]

GMenor - Do you 4-wheel with your truck, i.e. does it get bounced around alot? The Optimas should handle it...but who knows.

TTM - Personally, I'd replace both batteries now - tossing the '94 battery and give the '98 battery to a friend or keep it around the garage on a trickle charger for an emergency.

My batteries and alternators get a real workout in the winter - from long cold starts AND snowplowing, which really puts a demand on both.

The pair of GM batteries that came in truck #1 lasted about 3.5 years if memory serves me correctly. About 4 years for the GM batteries that came in truck #2. Both trucks have received new GM alternators as well.

[gmenor]

Mark,
Don't off road but some of the roads around here can be construed as off roading. I do a lot of highway driving to Virginia.

[Dimsdale]

My batteries are GM, and came with the truck, which I bought used at about 39K in May of 2001. I just changed the alternator for the first time two weeks ago, and I think the batteries are coming up for a change, as I beat on them pretty badly during an IP change. I have 148K on the truck as of today.

[gmenor]

Just got towing a 6000lb boat and I believe my alternator is also going out. Charging at 10 volts. Will the pain stop!