Newby Glow Plug Question

[cucveg]

I have a 1984 CUCV Blazer with a 6.2L. What should have been a simple job of replacing the glow plugs has turned into real challenge. First of all, once I installed the new glow plugs (Autolite 1110) I realized that the connector tang was narrower on the plugs that I pulled out. In other words, the connector wouldn't slide over the tang on the glow plug. After getting blanking mad I went back out, spread the connector and forced it on the glow plug (probably my first mistake). I then jumped in, turned the key, and thats when my second surprise came. Prior to installing the new glow plugs, the glow plug light would stay on for probably 7 seconds and you could hear solenoids cycling probably 5 or 6 times. With the new plugs installed, I didn't hear the solenoids, the light seemed to stay on longer, and I heard a buzzer for the first time (buzzer might be a coincedence) and it started immediately when I turned the key.
PLEASE HELP. Have I committed an unforgiveable sin? Am I turning the glow plugs into mushrooms?
Thanks in advance!

[john8662]

Hmm, I'm at a loss on these plugs still!

I've pulled a few of the plugs you're talking about and know what you're seeing there. The plugs look identical except for the smaller tang. You may have to source the right plugs.

How long was the glow cycle?

The military Blazers used a totally different glow system than the civilian vehicles did. So troubleshooting it is sometimes less than satisfactory, although possible.

Let's see what our fellow members who own CUCV's have done...

J

[85-m1028]

I went through 3 sets of the right type, ac delco 13G plugs that I got from a surplus suplier before I got fed up and switched to the civy controler/ relay. The glow cycle duration will get shorter and shorter over time as plugs start dying off.

I just cut the smaller connectors off and crimped on some 1/4" female spade. Use automotive types they handle the heat better. I ended up converting it to 12v and not looking back "got tired of burning up plugs"

heres my write up on changing it to the civy style controler
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&func=viewpub&tid=3&pid=16

I am currently running the same plugs as you with this set up and haven't had any isues.

however if you want to keep the military system talk to someone at steelsoldiers. It could be the resistor "mounted center firewall" it could be the relay "good luck finding one" or it could be the controler card "under the dash by the steering column" some times it needs the connector box cleaned.

[cucveg]

John 8662, 85-M1028, Thanks for the reply guys. I think the CUCV is a cool rig, but I don't necessarily need to keep it military authentic. So converting to another set up for simplicity and dependability would be the goal. I just like the 6.2L (WVO) and the

[85-m1028]

There is a thermal "sensor" that is used by the controler card it is supposed to read at 800ohm's resistance. It's located in the drivers side head just behind the inake manifold and has a connector with a black and yellow wire.

Mine was within specs but I still had similar problems, heres a thread that discusses this as a resolve so?? http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=7388

The civy controler "conversion" uses a temp switch that open a circuit at 125* and defeats the controler seems like a beter way to me.

Here is a thread about my civy conversion and why I did it http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=3217 I geuss in retrospect keeping a spare set of plugs with you could get you out of the boones should your mil spec glow system go south agian!

There is also some debate about keeping the 24v system. The 24v stuff consist of the starter and the NATO jump plug "located in the front grill by the head light" this was to be compatable with the 24v systems used throughout military trucks and equipment. Everything else is 12v in the cucv.

The system that GM came up with used two alternators conectected in series to charge two batteries connected in series. The drivers side alt splits 12v to the small teminal block next to the glow plug relay on the firewall and 12v to the passenger side alt where it is doubled to 24v.

In order to place starting duties evenly between both batteries "glowplugs and starter" GM used a voltage resistor to drop the 24v down to about 14v for the glow plug system.

Converting the system to 12v simply consist of changing the starter to 12v "the 28mt gear reduction starter works just as good as the 24v unit" and removing one alternator from the system. Here a PDF file that explains the 12v conversion http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=3&fid=file&pid=41

You have to think about what purpose this truck serves to you, I will be adding a 12v winch, extra lights, and a york compressor for an onbord air system. I can get a NATO jumpslave add a couple of jumper cable aligator clips and voila I don't even need to pop the hood to give someone a jump!

[cucveg]

Lots of great info, thanks 85-m1028!