Oil Leak from front drivers side

[BBCB]

It's been some time since I last posted, at that time the answers received were dead on - hopefully the panel of experts can help me again.

I upgraded ~2 years ago to Lubrication Specialists' lines and stopped the cooler line weeping, power washed the driveway and all was well (with the truck and the wife).

Something else has now occurred. The lines would appear fine, but the truck will leak .5 qt overnight if left with the nose down hill (yes the driveway is horrible now). I can't seem to find the leak, though it would appear to drip onto the cross-bar, then drip down either the front or rear. Of course the undercarriage is all wet with oil, making tracing extremely difficult.

Is the front seal a common leak point? I seem to have also picked up quite a bit of vibration at idle when in drive - would the harmonic balancer cause this? If so, I would guess it could bugger the front seal. If this is the expected cause, what's the job like?

In advance, thanks!

BBCB

[john8662]

Sounds like the front main seal to me.

The vibration could be related if the harmonic balancer is soaked with oil and has caused the rubber in the balancer to deform.

The job isn't too bad, but get the tools you'll need prior to taking on the job.

You'll need a harmonic balancer removal tool, this is the common one that you can rent/lease at the parts store, or buy for less than $15 at the parts store as well (same one that works for gassers).

Next, you'll need something to re-install the balancer after the seal change, for this most of us have made a tool, because we haven't sourced out a reasonable alternative aftermarket. This consists of an OEM balancer bolt, with a another bolt welded to the end of it, this extends the bolt to allow the balancer to be pulled onto the shaft. The Balancer bolt is too short to reach the threads normally. But... Some balancers can be pushed on carefully, some are right (pretty much all of mine).

One member here does offer this service (makes the tool), but I can't remember who. I think BobbieMartin...

Besides that, you'll need a torque wrench capable of achieving 200ft. lbs. torque to re-install the bolt.

It's really not that bad.

While you're in there you'll be able to inspect the balancer and the crank pulley.

J

[signgrafix]

If I were you, I would look at replacing the balancer with a fluid damper while you are doing it.
http://www.fluidampr.com/

[Robyn]

When I did the rebuild on my 6.5 this spring I replaced the ballancer.
To reinstall it I made real sure everything was real clean and free of any Burs. (The key, crankshaft snout and such)
Then I used my propane torch to heat the ballancer hub up good and hot.
** To clarify** Hot enough that it would be well to hott to touch but not hot enough to cause damage to the rubber.
Once warmed up good just slip the sucker on the crank and tap into place with a dead blow hammer (Plastic with shot inside)
Be sure to lube the vrank snout with a bit of never seaze.
Now ya dont need to smother the thing but just enough to make it slick.
Lube the seal with a tad bit of grease too..
You may want to steam clean the beast off prior to tear down and rerun to be sure of the leak.
You could be getting a leak from the turbo drain back that is running down the front and across the pan and dripping on the drivers side.
Look it over well before you rip into it.

Keep us informed
Robyn

[BBCB]

Thanks for the tips - I had intended to start into it today, but it's been extremly wet in Houston today (slow soaking rain - similar to Seattle).

I'll see what I can get accomplished during the week after work.

[murphyslaw]

not sure if it would apply to you but I just fixed an oil leak on my truck the other day. the oil filter adapter was leaking ALOT.

[jspringator]

My high voulme oil leak was a crack in the oil cooler. My driveway is still a mess.

[BBCB]

Well....

I found the source. One oil line rubbed up against one of the motor mount bracket bolts - slowly wearing through (they were too young to die!). The replacement lines steel braiding allowed the oil to wick forward to where it would be blown by the fan wash across the front of the block.

Now to replace it...