Hard to start...

[JSteward]

I've been reluctant to post this, but after researching this and finding all the possible causes of starting difficulties, I thought I'd get you guys to help me narrow it down.

Once I crank the truck once, it fires up no problem within a second of a turn of the ignition. Problem is whenever it hasn't been cranked in a day or so. As I turn the ignition on a cold crank with glow plugs warmed, the starter spins then after a few seconds it begins to sputter, kick, and shake very hard as it attempts to crank. It will do this for several attempts then all of a sudden fire up and pur like a kitten. A cloud of white smoke puffs out whenever it fires up.

Does this help anyone narrow down the diagnostics?

[BiggR]

Has the pump been changed, could be a timing issue!!

[JSteward]

Original fuel pump, but the fuel filter has been changed. What would one do to change timing? Would I need a programmer? Thanks.

[DennisG01]

Did you check each glow plug?

[JSteward]

Did you check each glow plug?

Should I unhook the glow plug and check the voltage w/ a voltmeter while cranking?

[DennisG01]

A quick and simple way is to use a light tester (the kind that costs less than $10 at an auto store). Hook up one end to Battery Positive and then go around to each plug (with the wire connector pulled off) and touch the light tester's probe end to the glow plug spade. If it doesn't light up, the plug is bad. If it does light up, the plug is atleast somewhat good, but this method can't really get any more exact.

A better way is to ohm (resistance) test each plug, which can also be done while still in the vehicle. Take the two leads of your ohm meter and touch one to the glow plug spade, the other to the glow plug housing. You'll need a digital ohm-meter for this since the readout on a good plug will be extrememly low - usually falls between .8 - 1.4 ohms (note: not "K" ohms)

Yes, you could check each wire connector. You wouldn't have to crank the engine, just have someone turn the ignition key enough to activate the "Wait To Start" light.

[ZZ]

I've been reluctant to post this, but after researching this and finding all the possible causes of starting difficulties, I thought I'd get you guys to help me narrow it down.

Once I crank the truck once, it fires up no problem within a second of a turn of the ignition. Problem is whenever it hasn't been cranked in a day or so. As I turn the ignition on a cold crank with glow plugs warmed, the starter spins then after a few seconds it begins to sputter, kick, and shake very hard as it attempts to crank. It will do this for several attempts then all of a sudden fire up and pur like a kitten. A cloud of white smoke puffs out whenever it fires up.

Does this help anyone narrow down the diagnostics?

You may want consider a fuel leak down since you say it does this after sitting a day or two without being started.

[JSteward]

You may want consider a fuel leak down since you say it does this after sitting a day or two without being started.

I'll check the glow plugs tommorrow with an ohm meter.
By fuel leak do you mean a hole in the line that leads to air entering? How does an air lock sound when trying to crank? Would a small air lock cause the shacking and hitting I experience when trying to start?

It gets extremely close to starting; in fact, I often let go of the ignition thinking it has started. But when I let go of the ignition switch, it goes dead. But once that sucker grabs, it runs perfect.

[ZZ]

If this is the problem; the fuel returns to the tank and you have to crank it enough to get the fuel back to the IP. It acts like I always called "losing prime." An air leak somewhere in the system is usually the culprit. My 6.2L acted like this a couple of times and a new fuel filter solved it.

It's hard for me to think it's in your glow system & etc since I read into your post that it only does this if you don't start it everyday.

[JSteward]

The fuel filter was just changed out by the man I bought it from (car dealer). I'm sure he noticed the starting problem and decided the filter must be clogged. After changing the filter, it started fine... but that was because the problem only surfaces after a long time of no cranking. I'm gonna test the glow plugs like the other guys said and eliminate that. It came with two brand new batteries, but they are 660 CCA. ...maybe I can get O'reily to swap them out and pay the difference on some 1000's.

But I don't think juice is the problem because it tries to crank so hard that I think it has started only to have it die when I let go of the ignition switch. I've noticed that it may be helping some if I pump the accelerator while cranking... does this provide any clues?

[Bnave95]

It could also be the Injectors,Injector bleading down,(now you have fuel in Cyl. white smoke when it fires)then needing to be reprimed to run smooth again. Case in point,when I R&R the injectors,with the DS4 pump you don't have to bleed the injector to get it running.It will shake and need a restart and once it bleeds will run smooth. Your truck starts as though you have replaced the injector.

[JSteward]

It could also be the Injectors,Injector bleading down,(now you have fuel in Cyl. white smoke when it fires)then needing to be reprimed to run smooth again. Case in point,when I R&R the injectors,with the DS4 pump you don't have to bleed the injector to get it running.It will shake and need a restart and once it bleeds will run smooth. Your truck starts as though you have replaced the injector.


I don't think the injectors have been replaced recently.

[Bnave95]

With your Eng. @ 125K, They probley are OEM. Running a strong dose of Inj. cleaner may help. New Inj. would be best. Many of 6.5 injectors have gone longer than 125K,though you will see the owners using a fuel addtive at every tank full.