ditch the 6.2??

[3and3oneton]

I am currently having some trouble w/ the 6.2 in my 85 one ton, before the truck quit I also found that it did not tow as well as I had expected. Lack of power towing a light boat over the snoqualmie pass, overheated, and poor gas mileage. it is a 4 speed w/ a ranger overdrive I installed. How difficult would it be to swap in a '94 6.5 turbo, or would just turbocharging the 6.2 w/ a banks or turbo from a 6.5 be an effective solution. Any thoughts or info would be appreciated. I am new to diesels, but accustomed to working on my own gas cars, so everything is a learning opportunity for me. Thanks!

[84 Convert]

How did the truck quit?

I had similar problems with my CC (overheating, poor milage) prior to the head gaskets finally hydro- locking the motor.

For more power you are on the right track. IF you do not have A/C I'm pretty sure the turbo off a 6.5 will fit. If you do have A/C, you might consider just purchasing the pass. side exhaust manifold and crossover pipe from banks and using the rest of the 6.5 system. (If you're a real fabricator search the 6.2 forum for info on how to retrofit the 6.5 turbo to A/C equipped trucks like yours). I would avoid the electronic pump since you do not already have it. Look for a DB2-4911 mechanical pump for more power.

You might also want to check the timing, since that can really kill mileage and power.

How do you like the Ranger splitter? I have been cosidering one for my truck.

I have towed with a GCW of 18-19K with my crew cab. It isn't quick but the job gets done.

Good luck,

Gregg

[Rot Box]

Sounds like a really cool truck ;) A 94 6.5L swap would be a pain (but definatly possible) compared to a 92-93 6.5L model mostly due to the mechanical VS. electronic injection. If you do a conversion just find a wrecked truck so you get the accessories with it (serpentine pulley componants mostly............), but for the cost I (personally) would just turbo what you have if it's a good runner (It's probably not a J-code, but a turbo will definatly wake it up) A banks sidewinder kit is fairly cheap compared to an entire 6.5 with all the bells and whistles.
I don't claim to be an expert on the situation, but I personally wouldn't fix something that isn't broken........I'd just upgrade it ;)

[84 Convert]

If it's a one ton it is a J-code.

Gregg

[john8662]

Thread moved to 6.2 forum...

Why did the 6.2 quit? A little more information would help us recommend your next move.

A 6.5 (whether electronic or not) can be converted to run in your truck, you already have ALL the 6.2 components to bolt to the 6.5.

J

[Craig M]

If your current 6.2 were in good condition, than the Banks Turbo would be the easiest thing to do. If your current 6.2 is "bad" and requires replacement, than other factors come into play. A takeout 6.5 with a turbo then might be your next cheapest option. Issues with the heating/cooling system on the firewall and electrical issues will come-into play but are solveable.

[3and3oneton]

Thank you all!
I had just filled the truck up w/ its first tank of ultra low sulpher diesel, which I wanted to blame at first, and got on the freeway. Truck was getting ROTTEN gas mileage, I was watching the gauge drop, and was blowing black smoke when I got on it, especially in low gears. When the truck started knocking a bit I pulled it off the freeway where it died and would not restart. When trying to restart it acted like a dead battery, slow, sluggish engine turnover. The headlights had been shining brightly and flashers worked until the towtruck arrived, however. It seemed to me like it was partially seized up, if thats even possible. I suspect there was a developing problem with the fuel system due to poor gas mileage and performance while towing over the pass earlier in summer.
Ideally this 6.2 is cheaper to fix than to replace, would definately like to turbo charge it.
As for the overdrive, I really like it. Splitting gears is alot of fun, and makes it alot more driveable, especially when towing w/ a poor running engine, and I can now drive on the freeway and keep up w/ traffic. prior to the overdrive the truck was not happy over 60 mph. It took me a hard, solid week to install it. But it is very doable. Thanks again.

[3and3oneton]

What does J code mean??

[DmaxMaverick]

What does J code mean??

J (eighth digit of VIN) = heavy duty application. No EGR, and higher power rating.

[doncannon]

Hello All,

3&3: I am going through the samething with my 87. I found a 6.2 with low mileage for 600.00 (if i can ever get ahold of the guy). I priced parts and pieces far exceeding $2K. So for me it seems a running engine will be the best bet. You would think this option would leave me with less down time?? Well the guy works 3 jobs and it is extremely hard to get a hold of him.

Hope this helps,
Don

[doncannon]

Hello All,

3&3: I am going through the samething with my 87. I found a 6.2 with low mileage for 600.00 (if i can ever get ahold of the guy). I priced parts and pieces far exceeding $2K. So for me it seems a running engine will be the best bet. You would think this option would leave me with less down time?? Well the guy works 3 jobs and it is extremely hard to get a hold of him and down time is more like stall time.

You will like these guys they helped me out alot. They recommended a banks, 6.5td injectors and a 4911. the banks I got used after checking for impeller with no play (whoo hoo). Talked to tim@cleaninjectors.com and he hooked me up with the injectors and the injection pump. Man does this thing run at this point. The banks helped but 160k on inj and pump it had high egt's and not much spunk. Now I can't keep my foot off that gas (fuel) pedal it runs good !! Well at least till I heard a rod knock when i started it at a friends house.

hope this helps,
Don

Hope this helps,
Don

[3and3oneton]

Well, here it goes. I've decided to just start tearing apart what I've got and take a look, maybe learn something in the process. either I'll fix it or replace it, tearing it down don't cost nothin'. I am guessing that this db2-4911 injection pump is a higher volume pump than normal? therefore, probally is a requirement when adding a turbo. Will the stock pistons hold up okay w/ a turbo involved, I don't want to tear the engine down that far unless I have to. Once again thanks for all the replies, hopefully soon I will have something to contribute other than questions.

[Robyn]

The 6.2 will handle some modest boost. The secret is gauges, Boost and a pyro. Dont melt me is what your little 6.2 is going to be shouting when you lay into it. keep the boost no more than about 8 PSI and keep the top EGT no more than 1000F and then if you need to pull a long grade give the little beastie a rest and yank it down in the gears and let it cool off some.
The high EGT's will melt pistons and cause the valves to sink into the heads. The heads can crack too from too much heat.
The 6.5 TD was designed to take a tad more heat but not that much more.
If you use a stock 92-93 GM 6.5 turbo with the factory wastegate controller it will keep your boost in check.
Folks like Ronnie Joe and John Kennedy can steer you right if you are looking to spend $$$$ and soup this little diesel rat up some.
Just Remember when you turbo the 6.2 in basic stock trim, the little fellow is screaming "DONT MELT ME"
Have fun and good luck
Robyn

[3and3oneton]

Soooo..., just to be safe is it possible to bulletproof the heads or are there aftermarket heads that are designed for this application. Can 6.5 heads be used on the 6.2? How much hotrodding is actually possible w/ a 6.2? This could get interesting. Thanks and good night.

[ccatlett1984]

the 6.5 heads are a bolt-on item, havent heard about an aftermarket heads though. I have also heard that ceramic coating the piston head makes a huge difference. I have a banks kit that will be installed on the truck within a week or two. will be running stock motor (J code) and turning the fuel up a little on the pump. by the way turning up the fuel only changes the amount delivered at WOT (wide open throttle) not across the whole rpm range. with this motor you NEED a pyrometer, this can't be stressed enough.

[Robyn]

Clear Water in Florida offers a set of aftermarket heads.
I am currently runniong a set on our 94 Burb and they are doing fine.

The heads looked great and were $670 for the set and they paid the freight back on the old ones.

[aloharovers]

Clear Water in Florida offers a set of aftermarket heads.
I am currently runniong a set on our 94 Burb and they are doing fine.

The heads looked great and were $670 for the set and they paid the freight back on the old ones.

More details, links, regarding these heads?

I hadn't heard of them before.

[wallew]

J code motors for cheap? I'm gonna give you my 'dirty little secret'. Go to Goverment Liquidation.

I got my J code 6.2 for $135 (plus $15 handling) total of about $150. Complete in the can.

http://www.govliquidation.com/list/c7601/lna/2.html

Keep an eye out and you can get a screaming deal. You have to be able go get it, because it weighs around 1200 lbs.

Here is the one I won back in February 2006:

http://cgi.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=788511