View Full Version : rocker arm guide buttons
Truckie117
08-31-2006, 10:51
HEY GUYS
Just removed valve cover to find a couple of buttons on the head.
anyone have a fix or do they make a better keeper?
john8662
08-31-2006, 11:27
This has been discussed pretty heavily, do some searching here on the forum, you'll find some good reading on this subject.
The readers digest version is that there isn't much that can be done, just install new buttons. There is an outfit in Oregon that substitudes the buttons with a custom washer and a big rivet, looks pretty solid, although I haven't tested them in my engines. Do a search for Portland Engine Builders on the 'net.
Otherwise, install ALL new GM/OEM buttons, the aftermarket makes them too, but I have heard that the material is not as good and they are more prone to failure (grapevine).
On edit, are the buttons just loose or did you find some that are broken? They're supposed to be a little loose, but best to be somewhat snug. You should be able to turn some of them, ect. depeding on whether that preticular rocker has valvetrain load on it at the time.
J
Truckie117
08-31-2006, 12:21
Thanks John
Going to order from SSDiesel cant find them at the dealerships
will keep looking any thoughts on gaseket or no gaskets on valve covers
john8662
08-31-2006, 13:23
The buttons should be available at the Dealer.
But, I couldn't find the part number...
For re-installing the valve covers, use RTV, a gasket (cork) will leak after installation later.
As for RTV, they're not equal. For the valve covers to seal properly, I've had no luck with the permatex black RTV, instead I've been using "The Right Stuff" at the parts store in a cheeze-whiz like can, is enough to do 4 valve covers. It sets up pretty quickly, and is not a vulnerable to a tiny bit of oil near it while curing.
J
Truckie117
08-31-2006, 18:42
Got the buttons at the dealer he had 10 so i took them all
I used the copper high temp rtv hope it works ok thats the reason I did this job a leaking valve cover from the dealership.
The plastic buttons are a POS.
I would replace every one if you have the covers off.
If one brakes and the rocker movers over it can cause a valve spring keeper to pop loose and drop a valve into the engine. when that happens its astala Bye Bye for the 6.5
The plastic buttons are a POS.
I would replace every one if you have the covers off.
If one brakes and the rocker movers over it can cause a valve spring keeper to pop loose and drop a valve into the engine. when that happens its astala Bye Bye for the 6.5
Would there be a tall tell that one has few buttons broke before Eng eats a vavle? Noise?
Possibly some valve train noise.
The issue is that when the button goes away the rocker is free to slide sidewways. If the rocker starts pushing on the spring retainer instead of the valve tip the retainer can cock and allow the keepers to pop out, END OF STORY.
The whole scenario can happen rather quickly.
any time the top is off one of the creatures with any amount of miles its a real cheap insurance policy to replace the buttons.
Just remove the rocker assemblies,wash them well and use a screw driver to break off the old buttons.
Just prying under the button head will usually get them right off. Be sure to fish out all the tails left in the rocker shaft. The new ones just drive in with a large round drift. The buttons look sort of like the little gizzmo that holds the door panel on some rigs except larger. They have the button on top and a barbed tail that goes into a hole in the shaft.
Real cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeezy if you ask me. A hard bronze button with a steel pop rivet would be far better me thinks.
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