Pluggin it in

[G B Sisson]

Hi, I awoke to 18*f which is cold for these parts.Starting a bit slower lately so decided to plug in the block heater for the first time. Its been plugged in for 4 hours and no sign of warm...Should hosesor thermostat housing be getting warm. ? Iexpected to look out window and see snow melted off hood.Does it have a breaker or fuse or is 4 hr not long enough?Does it heat coolant or oil? Thanks,GB

[tanker]

I think you need a new block heater. They cost less than $20.00 US. First I would check the cord to see if it is plugged into the heater on the drivers side of the block just forward of the oil filter. There are 3 prongs that the cord plugs into. You could remove the cord and check it for continuity. If that is OK then replace the heater. Drain the coolant as much as you can, then you must loosen the screw in the heater. Its round, and fits into a freeze plug hole. Now comes the fun, take a long screw driver and a hammer and carefully pry it out of the block without doing any damage to the hole in the block. You will now have coolant running down your arm etc (a real mess) :D . To install, clean the hole in the block, and apply a light coat of grease around the hole and also on the o-ring on the new heater. Install the heater with the element pointing downwards, ( the element cannot touch the block) make sure it is seated good, then tighten the center screw till its snug, install the cord, and reinstall the coolant, run the engine to get all the air out, there is a small bleeder on your thermostat housing to help bleed the air. Run the truck around the block and recheck the coolant level. When the block heater is working properly you can feel the engine and it will be warm. About 150*F. Hope this helps.
By the way don't forget to clean up the mess you made! ;)

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

If it's the factory engine heater, it's a block heater. It replaces one of the frost plugs, meaning it heats the coolant in the block. I think they're around 500 - 600 watts. I've never seen the results you're looking for. In fact, I only notice two things:

</font>[list] My trucks start like it's summer, even if it's -30

[jlog]

if you listen closely at the left front wheel well you can hear the block heater when it is plugged in
john

[HANK1948]

when i plugged mine in for the first time i used my infared heat sensor and the outside of the block was about 70 deg. and it was 15 deg. outside. you can also hear a slite hiss as the previous poster mentioned. The best was to use a block heater is to buy a heavy duty appliance timer and set it 2 to 3 hours before you start it in the morning.

[G B Sisson]

Thanks Guys,It was 10* today.Checked 3 prong connector and was attatched.I did this test and bear with me because electricity is definately not my game....Taking the male plug from under the bumper,I clipped a test wire from the neg. bat. term. to one of the flat prongs.To the other flat prong,I attatched the aligator clip of a battery powered sharp pointed test light.I think it should have lighted when I touched the point to the positive term but it did not.(Told you all once before Im no gmctd.)Would this sshow continuity thru the element? Does this prove element is ng?Im not too keen on laying on my back in the gravel in this weather to replace it.Mine is 4wd and front diff makes it really hard to get to....By the way,it started both days,so the repair can wait,but heading up to interior Canada next month.brrrrr. GB

[spra01]

I tried your test with the test light and it does light up, although dim due to the 25 ohm resistance of the block heater element,
block heater elements do fail,However it sounds like yours has not seen much use, I would suspect your cord is bad.

[curmudge1]

Hey, Hank1948, please tell me (us) about your infrared sensor... how much does one of these items cost? What else would it be used for? ... can't have too many gadgets.

thanks.

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

G B Sisson: I would be EXTREMELY surprised if your test light would light under these conditions. You would have to know something about the wattage of the lamp inside your test light to have some idea if this would work.

A MUCH better test would be to put a 110V Christmas tree light (or any other very low wattage 110V light) in series with your block heater. I would buy a cheap three-wire extension cord. Carefully strip off the outer insulation, then cut ONE of the wires

[spra01]

I did'nt think this test would work either, so thats why I tried it, and it did work, The block heater measured out at 25 ohms which is not enough to prevent the 12 volt test light from lighting.

[G B Sisson]

Thanks for your replies.I made the 'moondoggie apparatus' from stuff in the pantry and junk drawer and went out (10:30 pm) to give it a try and that's when I remembered that coming home from town this evening,some idiot had abandoned his Ford Explorer half way up the first hill on our 1/2 mile dirt(read ice) road,blocking our passage. We parked the mighty 6.5 at the bottom and my daughter and I walked up the icy road with the groceries.Why do kids laugh so hard when old Dad slips on the ice and drops the groceries?Anyway, I will run the test as soon as I can get the Burb near enough to electricity to plug it in. If it doesnt light I guess next is check the cord and clean contacts at connector end.Not looking fwd to the part where the coolant runs down into your armpit....GB

[Shad]

Gave me a good idea, I'll borrow the infered from the electrical guys at work. I would like to see what my block temps at when plugged in.

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

spra01: Please take this in the spirit given smile.gif , but the reason I offered my test was that it

[Gapper_ca]

well not sure about all this wiring and testing in line stuff. i just plug it in and then i listen. if no hiss then i check the wire to the block heater. a new cord is $20 if still no hiss then time for a new heater. has worked for me for a long time that way , and well when it is -40 here lots and that is how the garage checks it..

[HANK1948]

Originally posted by curmudge1:
Hey, Hank1948, please tell me (us) about your infrared sensor... how much does one of these items cost? What else would it be used for? ... can't have too many gadgets.

thanks. the infared sensor is a heat measuring devise that you point at anything ,it has a laser pionter on it so what ever the laser dot is pointing at its measuring the temp. i use it for cooking sometimes, and i use it for my snowmobiles to find out if all the pipes are the same temp. (if one is lean or fat) you can use it to see if a bearings are getting to hot and many other uses. mine goes up to 600 deg. they make them read higher but there alot more expensive I bought mine for $120.00 but they go up to $1000 bucks

[TurboDiverArt]

Question about plugging in. What does plugging in actually do for you except make the engine easier to start and warm up faster? Since the engine gets warm, I'd assume that it keeps the IP and fuel filter warm so I'd imaging that the initial fuel that goes into the engine certainly isn't gelled so would start easier. The heads would be warm so the chamber would be warm as well. Is this really where the benefits of plugging in come from?

Provided the fuel doesn't gel, when do you really need to start plugging in? I plug in so it warms up faster and is quieter when initially started.

When I take my truck to work it sits in the parking lot all day. If not plugged in, does it do any damage starting it when not plugged in? This week it

[Diesel Dan]

I need a (another :mad: ) new block heater in my truck. When I put the motor in over christmas I installed a new heater I have had for a couple of years. Never thought of doing a ohm check BEFORE I installed the new part. After the first single didget night I didn't think it was working, nor did I hear it sizzling.

Ohm check found 5Mega Ohms :eek: . Joy.
Have new block heater kit from dealer, &lt;$20. Also bought new cold advance switch, &gt;$20. Go figure on the pricing, in Oct I had bought the same cold advance switch and it was only $15. Anyway, I think the block heater can be reached thru the driver side fender well. Remove tire and spash shield and there is a clear shot at the block heater, this is the route I'll try--later.

[G B Sisson]

Thanks again...Dan good tip on fenderwell approach.The front diff still seems like it might be in the way.How have others done it?Weather is warmer but still I work on my vehicles outside in the gravel .From underneath I can barely see the thing never mind working with tools in that confined space.Ive done my test with christmas bulb tester (negative) so will order heater tomorrow.Saturday We do site prep for a 30 x 40 pole building with a slab.I'm 50,it's time.... :D GB

[Diesel Dan]

I changed my block heater last night. Went thru the fenderwell. Worked like a charm, didn't even drain the cooling system.

Released the system pressure and reinstalled the cap. This way the air has to go in the same hole the coolant is trying to come out. Had the new one sitting on the frame next to the engine. Yanked out the old one, fumbled around a little and installed the new one. Lost about 1/2 gallon of coolant, caught some in the drain pan under the front axle. Wasn't an excessive amount of coolant, even draining from the radiator won't empty the block.

Side note: I knew the I.D. of the core hole was clean since the motor had recently been installed. If this is tried on an older one there could be some rust/scale that needs to be cleaned out.

[HowieE]

If you want to measure the block temperature Radio Shack sells an infrared thermomator for about $20.00.
I use mine to check tires and bearings while towing. When I first pull into a rest area I look at each tire and usualy get readings of from 95 to 110 degrees, the higher reading on the sunny side. When I intend to check the trailer bearings I try to coast into the rest area using my trailer brakes as little as possible and then look at the bearings as soon as I stop.

[G B Sisson]

Question for Diesel Dan. Is yours four wheel drive?If so were you working 'blind' behind the front diff?I guess if you said it was easy,Ill just tear into it when mine comes in at Napa.As you can see from my signature,most of the rigs Im used to repairing are far more accessible under the hood than our GMs. Thanks,Gary

[Diesel Dan]

Yes, mine is a 4wd.
Pull the driver side tire off and remover the rubber spash sheild attached to the fenderwell. You can see the block heater just behind the motor mount.

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
A few pennys to add.....
I have- onboard battery charger
- factory block heater
- oil pan heater

All of these run off the same plug, I use a timer that starts the heat at about 0400hr. A rule-of-thumb that I use is 1hr for every 100 cubic inches and 1hr min. Granted this varies allot with different heaters and engines but it has worked for me with everything from lawn mowers to 300hp diesel John Deere.
When I went to start my truck last week it was -15 and when I checked the oil it was nice and warm. This is the best benifit in my opinion. The warm oil adds many miles to life of the engine. I have started my truck when it was below zero not plugged in. IT WAS NOT FUN! :mad: I've never seen snow melt off the hood but if the snow is blowing there will be ice hanging on the front of the truck in the morning. I agree that the simplest way to test is either listen or wait 30min and feel the water neck.
I have an infrared temp gun that goes up to 1000deg. I use it ALL thetime in my welding business but the best time to use it is when I have a good number of people over for steaks and have had the proper number of beers then I whip out the old "steakilizer-gun" and make sure they are done to the right specs! :D
L8r
Conley Janssen