Valve cover removal

[Truckie117]

Hey Guys
URGENT
Anyone tell me how hard it is to remove the valve covers form 6.5 turbo diesel
do you have to remove the intake manafold or are there any shortcuts
The fuel lines go over the valve cover can you bend them up just want to do it once and do it right.
Thanks
Mike

[redbird2]

The proper way is to remove the intake, unhook all the injector lines, then remove the valve cover.

It is a VERY VERY BAD!!!!!! idea to bend the lines up as you can cause a hair line crack in them it may not bite you today but it could cause problems down the road.

[Truckie117]

Thanks I thought that is what was going to happen what kind of tool to get the injectors loose i tried a wrench on an accable one and no luck.
Thanks
Mike

[farmboy1989]

Either a 30mm or a 1 3/16" extra deep socket should work i believe. Someone correct me if im wrong.

[Truckie117]

Like to know the bright engeneer who thought that one up

[tommac95]

>Like to know the bright engeneer who thought that one up

I think it's like a 40 year old (+) Bosch design necessitated by the construction of the injectors, with replaceable nozzles .
Oh, wait...you mean the accessibility of the valve covers! I agree, particularly the use of gasket-free sealant with studs holding the brackets above the cover nuts....DO be careful not to get dirt into the injector lines; and do re-install the clamps with rubber guides for the lines.


The best sockets have a hex around the top, so a combination wrench can be applied in tight spaces.

[NH2112]

A nice thing about the Navistar/Ford 6.9l/7.3l diesels is the injectors are on the valley side of the heads, meaning valve cover removal is no more difficult than on a gasser.

[john8662]

Why are you removing the valve cover?

You only need to remove the injection line from the injector to get the valve cover off, which is with any 3/4" open end wrench.

[NH2112]

I wouldn't bend the lines, I've seen too many crack. They're hardened steel to begin with, and milions upon millions of injection pulses have most likely work-hardened them even more. If not bent exactly as they were the nuts won't line up and may cross-thread as well. Better to take the intake manifold off, remove the lines from the pump (and injectors), and give yourself some room to work in. You won't have to be careful not to rub RTV off on the tops of the rockers when you reinstall the cover, either.

[Truckie117]

Thanks Guys
got the intake gaskets yesterday will start on this today anyone got the pattern for reinstall of the nuts and torque specs since i dont have a manual.
And any suggestions for getting the trannie drain nut out wont budge.
mike

[Truckie117]

Valve cover is off and i found little tan valve keeper buttons loose inside vavle cover

[redbird2]

Those retainer buttons are to be a little loose not so loose you can pull them out with your fingers, I have truck with 190K + on them never had valve covers off never changed those retainers you should be ok.

Why did you have to take valve covers off an way?

[Bnave95]

Why did you have to take valve covers off an way?[/QUOTE]
(I used the copper high temp rtv hope it works ok thats the reason I did this job a leaking valve cover from the dealership)
Luck on your side fixing the leak and finding bad rocker buttons

[Truckie117]

I removed the valve cover because the there was a leak.
also want to change the oil cooler lines.

[Truckie117]

Well Folks got it all back together and it started ran up to temp no leaks so far hope it stays that way.
Thanks for all the help

[glivingstone]

Hey Michael I have the same problem.
What did you use to remove and install the injection lines at the pump end?
Doesn't look like a normal spanner will do the job.

[billschall]

Hey Michael I have the same problem.
What did you use to remove and install the injection lines at the pump end?
Doesn't look like a normal spanner will do the job.

A 3/4" open-end will get 'em off, but use a crow's foot to put 'em back on so you can use a torque wrench to tighten them down. When re-installing, I started at the bottom of the pump and worked my way up and around each side of the pump. In this order: #4 & 5, then 3 & 6, then 1 & 2, then 7 & 8. Since this method means that you're replacing them one at a time, you'll have to remove the clamps & rubber that holds the four sets together, then reinstall them. Cleanliness IS imperative!! Piece of cake.

-Bill