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RoverIIa
08-24-2006, 20:58
My 83 K10 recently convinced me to replace the timing cover that it has known and loved for almost 23 years. Unfortunately, the drivers side water passage suffered a bad case of corrosion, which passed through the passage above the water passage, and into the bolt hole.

Anyway... the new cover did not have a timing mark scribed on the top. Does anyone have suggestions, or know of a procedure, for establishing a new one?

Thanks for the input.

-Nate

john8662
08-25-2006, 11:19
Of course there is a procedure, but it involves using a Kent-moore tool that few here are going to have or have even seen. It's a tool that establishes the static timing line on the cover and makes a scribe mark.

Why no mark on your cover, is this a new cover for a 6.2 from the dealer?

Or, is this a cover off an electronic 6.5? Be sure to plug the crankshaft position sensor hole (right hand side of the cover towards the bottom, and crank opening).

I'd suggest just putting it flat in the middle, and see how it runs and time it with a timing meter if you get a chance, otherwise by ear.

Too much advance will be too much rattle, too little and it'll be low down on power and harder to start, find the sweet spot.

Robyn
08-26-2006, 07:59
OK here is a little trick I have used. Its not perfect but will get you in the ball park close enough that the engine will probably run fine.
All the cases are machined on CNC equipment and the cover is dowel located to the block.
Remove your old cover and get it up on the bench where you can work on it.
use a piece of aluminum sheet about 1/8th inch thick and make a little spacer like item that replicates the pump gasket. Make sure the holes are very snug sliding over the studs in the cover so the little shim goodie cant rattle around. Slide it onto the old cover and transfer "scribe" the mark from the cover to your shim. Now put the goodie on the new cover in the same orientation and transfer the mark to the new cover. Be careful so you get a clean straight line. Get a small mark then use a little machinists square and a carbide scribe.
You can just bolt things back together and she will be good to go. If you feel the need for more advance give it a twist.
The kent moore tool was designed to retime the pumps as the timing chain saw wear and the resulting slack that came with it. This fix will get you very close if you are careful and pay attention to detail.
Good luck
Robyn

RoverIIa
08-26-2006, 09:23
Thanks for the input. The cover that I got, from the dealership, was for a 6.5. It does have the sensor hole at the bottom, and I have already made a cover plate for it. This is the cover that I was given, so I assume that the older ones are not available.

My plan was to do something similar to transfering the timing mark as suggested, hoping to run it well enough to get it to a shop that can time it appropriately. It will be headed to Advanced Diesel Systems in Fresno. They have done all of my injectors and pump, as well as my turbo, and do all of the local work for my employer. They should be able to handle this.

Should it go to the shop before I install the new pump and all of the assorted stuff on top of the engine? I would be willing to haul the engine in there if they will be able to do a better job before it is all assembled.

Thanks again!

-Nate

DmaxMaverick
08-26-2006, 09:53
Should be a no-brainer. You can place a temporary timing mark by measuring the old cover (use the bolt holes as a reference and make a cardboard template). Get it in the park and mark it with a Sharpie. Time it so it doesn't rattle too much, and you aren't blowing white smoke, then ease it over to Advanced Diesel (I know that shop. S. Elm, right?). They'll time it with a meter, so no need for a mark to do that. Once they get your timing set, then you can make a permanent timing mark to use for reference in the future.

If your timing gear is set correctly, the bolt slots won't let you get too far from running. If you have to move the pump any significant amount, be sure to loosen/retighten the injector lines at the rear of the pump. You need to unload the stress on them once your timing is set. If you don't do this, they can loosen, or worse, stress crack the tubing.