new member with IP ???

[c6j12r]

i am looking at a 1995 gmc 3/4 ton diesel and it is giving the code 18. the garage says it needs an injector pump. i have never installed one on a chevy i have done the cummins and ford ip. once i get it installed will i have to time it or do anything else to it? if its not too bad of a job to do i will buy the truck and then do the ip on it. thanks

[Robyn]

Howdy and welcome.
yes you can do it and if you mark the pump and have that one rebuilt and reinstall it you will be fine on the timing. I have done it several times.
The code 18 is the optical sensor and yes the pump must come off.
These are not hard to do.
The accessories dont all have to come off but you need to get the top half the fan shroud out of the way and the fan just to make room.
The bolts that hold the pump gear to the pump are accessed from behind the oil filler tube.You unbolt the little bracket then pull the filler tube from the gromett.
The intake manifold has to come off to gain access to the pump and high pressure fuel lines.
### Blow the engine down good with acompressed air all around the manifold and such to get rid of loose dirt and stuff so it doesnt fall into the head ports.( once the manifold is off plug the intake ports to keep things out.
Remove the air hat and the manifold.
Mark the high pressure lines with tape. They are already in pairs(keep them that way) The clamps at the manifold bolts are a necessary evil so keep them and rplace them as they were.
Once you have the lines numbered make a little map of how they hook to the pump, these can and have been mixed up and boy thats a real nasty thing since you have to tear it apart to redo it.
Remove the lines from the nozzles and cap the nozzles(Very important to keep crud out)
Remove the lines and set aside. (Note wash them good in solvent and blow dry before reinstall ) Dont ruin your tape numbers Just before reinstall fire a little brakeclean down each pipe and blow out.
I cant stress enough to keep this stuff clean .
There are three bolts that hold the pump to the adaptor.
There are several wiring harnesses that conect to the pump. Remove these carefully as the plugs can and do break on high milers.
The wiring can only plug in one way so this is a no brainer. All the plugs are different.
Remove the two fuel lines. The top one on the right side is fuel in and the front one is return line. Replace all rubber lines when you reassemble.
Remove the bolts holding the gear to the pump (oil filler hole) turn engine by hand.
once the gear is loose ( dont worry it cant fall down and it is pin aligned to the pump so you cant mess it up. (Use blue locktite on these bolts when you put them back)
Scribe the pump housing and the adaptor with an alignment mark so you can reinstall your pump just where it was.
remove the 3 nuts on the pump flange and off it comes.
Have a reputable pump shop rebuild it.
Replace in the reverse order and you is good to go.
Hope this helps.
If you need more info along the way just ask, we are all here for you.
Robyn

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

We have/had a member in Norway (I think) that has changed the optical sensor on the IP, on the truck, & says it ain't that tough to do. I'd do a search & see if you can find the post. There is, unfortunately, a chance the post is so old that it got lost way back when we (the Page) lost our two backups. If that's the case, maybe one of you good folks remembers what I'm talking about & who that member was that did the optical sensor as describe, & maybe you'd private mail him & ask him to respond to this topic.

Blessings!

[Bnave95]

Good Day!

We have/had a member in Norway (I think) that has changed the optical sensor on the IP, on the truck, & says it ain't that tough to do. I'd do a search & see if you can find the post. There is, unfortunately, a chance the post is so old that it got lost way back when we (the Page) lost our two backups. If that's the case, maybe one of you good folks remembers what I'm talking about & who that member was that did the optical sensor as describe, & maybe you'd private mail him & ask him to respond to this topic.

Blessings!
I have pics in the Photo Album though have not learned how to past.

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

I may have figured out who it was. I'd suggest private messaging Peter J. Bierman - I think he might have been the guy who did this.

If you don't know a better way to private message him, I know he recently posted in the 1st topic in the 6.2/6.5 Tech forum - you could click on his name & private message him.

Please let me/us know if you find this procedure.

Blessings!
(signature in previous post)

[Bnave95]

The guy I got this info from was Roy Halvorsen. Norwegion area. This goes back to May 2002 when he was dealing with codes issue 17 18 & 35.

This is Roy's comments

Lately I've had error codes 17, 18 and 35. This can mean that the FSD unit has to be replaced. I did. TWICE... But still I had the error codes from time to time. Next step was to change the Optosensor inside the diesel pump...


May 3rd. 2002

Here you see the FSD cooler with FSD and extension harness installed. I've made some simple brackets to lift the whole unit off the hot engine...


Here's the bad wolf. As you see, the FSD unit is removed from the pump. I did this without removing anything exept the "DIESEL POWER" cover. I killed a T-15, welded the tip to a long bar, and removed the screws in less than 15 minutes...


Remove the screws as shown. Also remember to remove a screw on the securing bracket between the Turbo and the inlet tube.


Remove the segering thet holds the Optosensor connector, and the 6 screws (T-27) that holds the cover.


The cover is removed, and you can see the Optosensor fastened with a T-40 screw. Here I have drained the pump from diesel.


Draw a line beside the Optosensor with a sharp knife before removing it. This is to make it easier to install the new one at the correct position. Here you also see the stock made line.


Remember to install the O-ring on the new Optosensor connector. I forgot this, and had to dis assemble the pump again...


Here you see the cover back on again, and you can see the different connectors. The radio noise eliminator that can cause problems with Optosensor and FSD unit connects between the harness and the Optosensor. I added some Vaseline into the connectors, and pressed it together...

AND THEN, FINALLY I STARTED THE BEAST!

I'm going for a 250mile trip with a 9,5metres caravan tomorrow, so we'll soon know if this worked...

May 4th. 2002
I'm back from the 250mile trip in Norwegian mountains, REAL mountain climbing. Passed Vinje in Telemark, where the Olympic fire has been put into fire three times, and where Sondre Nordheim started the modern skisport...

Well, enough history... The beast worked well, and it seems like that the Optosensor was to blaim for code 17, 18 and 35. Price for tis sensor, is about US$ 350 here in Norway. Labour, 1 hour and 30 minutes (I'd do it in 15 minutes today...).

May 6th. 2002
I just HAD to replace the OLD FSD driver yesterday.
The beast has worked well to day. Not too much driving, about 20miles, but NO failures. I'm just wondering if I placed the Optosensor a little differrent than the previous one. The beast is, -what'll I say -frisky compared to what it was. Of course, it's a bit quicker than the stock models are, with BD-RACE chip and #9 resistor in the FSD driver and a tranny controller. Believe there are about 265HP right now. I have a couple other things to do to highen the power up to a 280-290HP. Some day I'll just do it...

December 16th. 2003
I've been using the OLD FSD since May 6th. 2002.
Now I've had several stalls during driving. I've exchanged to one of the new ones that I always carry in the truck now. Let's see if the stall's seize...