DMF flywheel to solid

[6.5diesel]

I was wondering if any one had suggestions on changing the stock dual mass flywheel to a solid flywheel? i was told that changing it to the solid flywheel could cause transmission failure. What would be a good clutch to put in for 4 wheeling and towing?

[Bnave95]

I was wondering if any one had suggestions on changing the stock dual mass flywheel to a solid flywheel? i was told that changing it to the solid flywheel could cause transmission failure. What would be a good clutch to put in for 4 wheeling and towing?
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=23462&highlight=flywheel

[stingthieves]

http://www.amsautomotive.com/

Click the Products tab on the left
Then Flywheels on the right!

[Hubert]

6.5Diesel you list a 97 in signature. That should be a Solid flywheel already. The switch back to solid was during early ~ 96 production. My 97 was solid from factory.

The 80's and early 90's were also single mass. I think DM was sometime around 92-96???

The 6.5 clutch failures is not due to slipping or wear. Its catastophic failure of the disc hub for solid flywheels and failure of dual mass flywheel itself for those. The diesel vibrations and harmonics tend to fatigue the components.

The GM bellhousing is smaller than the Dodge (a few other differences in the NV4500 as well) and GM used a concentric slave on the 96-97 and up clutches . Both space and weak hydraulic components limit options. Other thing is the bearing or bushing in the crankshaft tail for the input shaft to ride in. Dodge's is bigger and has aftermarket options. The 6.5 is either the bronze bushing or roller bearing. Toss up there too I went with the bronze its suppose to be a little tougher - again depending on who you ask.

Zoom makes a pricey replacement clutch kit. From some pics I saw it looks nice. Search the forum a member used it after the I think the 3rd Luk. Luk the OEM was suppose to improve things over the years.

Centerforce offers one but its not there usual counterweighted pressure plate (no space) also some say it would be a waste with low RPM diesel anyway. I think its just a painted luk pp and centerforce disc. Not sure if its any better. Hays lists a clutch but you have to convert back to DM flywheel $$$.

I went with a Luk replacement most do (for the price and convienance). Look at the Southbend clutch website. Someone there recommended switching back to dual mass for the 6.5????? Depends on who you ask and talk to.

Post back what else you find.

On edit: oops I meant centerforce not centerline. I did my clutch last summer I can't remember who I spoke to at Southbend. I think they even admitted it was their personal preferrence DMF vs SM. I'd stay with SMF if it were my truck.

I am not taking any bets why GM went back to SM probably because they are cheaper and DMF did not really perform any better for warranty work would be my guess.

[joed]

This spring, I had Southbend's solid flywheel clutch kit installed in my 98 (originally was solid), after having 2 stock (Luk) clutch center sections fail.

So far I really like it - it seems to hook up better than stock and yet clutch pedal feel is the same. It's definitely a little pricey, but having the stock only last 60-70K gets old.

Joe.

[Blackie]

I changed my dmf for a solid one and the clutch disc has 4 springs close to the center and 6 springs of a smaller diameter further out. This is all top quality parts but at idle speed the springs make lots of noise and even more under load until the rpm increases a small amount. I was told this was supposed to happen but I also noticed the solid clutch had less surface area compared to the dmf. I recently had some u-joints replaced at a driveline specialist who told me I should have stayed with a dmf because I pull heavy trailers. I couldn't find a dmf, from Chevy or anywhere else when I bought this new clutch. The huge amounts of springs are supposed to protect your tranny and I guess they do but the growling as you release the clutch at start is hard to get accustomed to. My clutch is nearly two years old so we'll probably find out soon if it's a keeper or not. I've had my '93 4x4 ext. cab diesel, for over six years and it will sometimes stall after start-up after it has been run for a while and then shut off. Sometimes it's hard to re-start but runs fine unless I let it idle for a while and then when I start again, the accelerator seems not to control the fuel. What I mean is I'll barely be opening the throttle and all of a sudden, the thing takes off like a bat out of hell for 3-4 seconds and then settles back to regular acceleration. It's not that big a deal unless the surface is slippery and it will cause wheel spin. I do get the occasional look from someone who probably thinks I'm trying to show off or just stupid, sorta embarrassing. Another thing it does is to start up and then stall after it's been run hard and shut off for a few minutes and it's also worse after every fuel filter change for a couple weeks or more. This truck does some funky things fuel wise at times but has never failed to restart or run. I recently installed a Heath Diesel Power manual waste gate controller and it's helped low end torque and stopped black smoke at the same time. I'm not sure if it has helped fuel mileage since I've been pulling trailers on every tank of fuel but it certainly seems that it probably has. If anyone can address any of these issues, I'd surely be grateful. Most of the problems are mostly hassle but trying to blend into traffic rapidly and having it stall with highspeed traffic coming from both directions is less than fun. I've been getting 13-14 mpg pulling ten to twelve thousand pound trailers so I think the new waste gate controller is doing all the good. Any answers are welcome. Thanks.