92 Rally Van Water Pump

[jogl]

I'm just changing the water pump on my 92 Rally van. Looks like if I move/remove cruise actuator, windshield washer bottle, top rad hose and a few other do-dads I should be able to get the top half of the shroud out of the top and get at the fan and pump. Is this a workable plan? Is there a better way?

Thanks,
JP.

[john8662]

It's a tight fit, the mentioned items are a requirement to get the room necessary to even see what you're working on there.

I can't remember if I removed the fan shroud on the '83 Gvan I did or not (been years now, don't wanna do it again). But, you may consider going through the radiator since you're in that department, up to you!

J

[jogl]

Are the fittings on the A/C condenser self sealing? To go in through the front that would have to come out too. Or maybe I could just lean it down enough to get by. Well, we shall see.

Thanks,
JP.

[jogl]

I was able to pull the top of the shroud and the fan out the top and now there is lots of room to work on the pump.

Where is the drain for the cooling system on these? I can't find a stop cock anywhere.

While I have the front of the engine exposed is there anything else that I should check? The van is just new to me so I have very little idea about engine condition. It has 380,000 km (~250,000 miles) on the odo. Body needs work (I'm plugging away at that). I will be checking compression and then setting it up to run WVO if all is OK.

I'm a Perkins (MF), Detroit 8.2, Volvo D24 (VW made) and Cummins guy so this motor is new to me.

JP.

[Bnave95]

Once water pump is removed, I then would go for a new timing chain.

[jogl]

I'm pretty sure that I know the answer to this question, but anyway, is the water pump screwed on to the timing chain cover from behind?

Also, when I get the cover off what am I looking for as far as chain condition goes? I searched around and found lots of pics and info about gears but very little for chains.

Thanks,
JP.

[DmaxMaverick]

The pump bolts through the cover from the front.

You can do just the water pump, and not remove the cover. But....While you are in there, it's easy to go just a little more and knock out the timing chain/sprockets. You will have to remove the crank pulley and balancer.

The chain can have about 1/2" deflection. I've seen new chains with that much or slightly more. With high miles, replace it anyway, regardless what it looks like. It's no fun having to remove your new water pump (and everything else) in a year to replace the chain.

[ZZ]

I would consider changing the chain setup over to the gear setup. I've never done it, but sounds like a win/win situation.

[Bnave95]

I would consider changing the chain setup over to the gear setup. I've never done it, but sounds like a win/win situation.
This gear set up is great:D If you have the money and when this high milage eng. goes,swap it over to the new one.
At lest a new chain for your high milage eng. any way;)

[john8662]

As mentioned, a chain replacement will be the best thing for the engine if the rest of it is healthy (for the miles). Follow the advice above in regard to replacing both the chain and the gears that the chain rides on, they both wear in this situation, just replacing the chain is only half the battle. Be carefull which chain brand you buy if you decide to go that route. I've seen some nonsense with Melling brand components as of late. For a chainset the Cloyes seemed to be top notch.

[jogl]

Thanks to all. I'll keep you updated on progress. The plan is to only do the minimal to get it on the road. (body work, water pump, idler arm on steering is bad, I haven't pulled the brakes apart yet) But generally it appears as though the PO did keep it up.

Once its on the road and we decide that we like it (the wife already decided, she likes it) I'll add a little more TLC to the drive train and suspension.

Thanks again,
JP.