Rot Box
08-09-2006, 15:58
I just wanted you guys to know that I (finally) finished rebuilding my entire front IFS suspension. I won't go into too much detail on how big of a pain it was, but be forwarned it's a big project that requires time, patience, a well equipped shop, mechanical knowledge, and above all... (CHA CHING) money.
A few tips for anyone that won't pay the insane price of having a shop do it:
1. Replace your bushings in the upper and lower control arms as well as the swaybar with polyurathane ones because I garantee your stock ones are bad.
2. If your like me, and couldn't get the torsion bars out then just remove the lower control arm pivot bolts (with the torsion bars having no pressure on them) and pull the lower control arm out far enough to get a ball joint press on it, and press out the old bushings. I had much more success doing this than using a torch or cuss words.
3. Use MOOG steering componants or better (if they exsist). Upon recieving mine I noticed right off that they looked much better than the stock ones. They also have PROBLEM SOLVER written across the ball joint that has to mean something as does the lifetime warrantee :cool:
4. Mark (with paint) where your torsion bar preload bolts are set as well as your upper control arm adjusters. By doing this you can just set it back to it's original spot and take out most of the guess work.
5. Have a proffesional alignment done. $40-$50 bucks is nothing compared to what you have already spent, and will save in the long run.
6. If you don't already have it then buy THE DIESEL PAGE 6.5L Turbo Diesel volume. As it is extremely informative and educational. No 6.5L guy should be without it!
Final conclusion: My truck now rides the way I think it was meant too. The difference in night and day. No more wandering or rough ride just smooth sailing with the ability to corner like a sports car :D
Special thanks to: Scott Boelman (6.5L volume), MOOG, Energy Suspension, 4-Wheel Parts Wholesalers, and to everyone on the Diesel Page that has helped me in the past :D
A few tips for anyone that won't pay the insane price of having a shop do it:
1. Replace your bushings in the upper and lower control arms as well as the swaybar with polyurathane ones because I garantee your stock ones are bad.
2. If your like me, and couldn't get the torsion bars out then just remove the lower control arm pivot bolts (with the torsion bars having no pressure on them) and pull the lower control arm out far enough to get a ball joint press on it, and press out the old bushings. I had much more success doing this than using a torch or cuss words.
3. Use MOOG steering componants or better (if they exsist). Upon recieving mine I noticed right off that they looked much better than the stock ones. They also have PROBLEM SOLVER written across the ball joint that has to mean something as does the lifetime warrantee :cool:
4. Mark (with paint) where your torsion bar preload bolts are set as well as your upper control arm adjusters. By doing this you can just set it back to it's original spot and take out most of the guess work.
5. Have a proffesional alignment done. $40-$50 bucks is nothing compared to what you have already spent, and will save in the long run.
6. If you don't already have it then buy THE DIESEL PAGE 6.5L Turbo Diesel volume. As it is extremely informative and educational. No 6.5L guy should be without it!
Final conclusion: My truck now rides the way I think it was meant too. The difference in night and day. No more wandering or rough ride just smooth sailing with the ability to corner like a sports car :D
Special thanks to: Scott Boelman (6.5L volume), MOOG, Energy Suspension, 4-Wheel Parts Wholesalers, and to everyone on the Diesel Page that has helped me in the past :D