More Stalling Questions

[JTodd]

I have read the posts regarding stalling as well as the tech bulletin, and I have some questions. My situation is my sub has started to stall (as do all of them), but it is not acting like others I read about, unless I am not paying attention. It will stall, or almost stall (bucking and hesitating) while driving or idling, cruise control on or not. It happens on a frequent basis. When it does die, I can usually restart it by cycling the key to accessory and then on, glow plug light will then come on. Then it will restart. Occasionally it will not restart on the first try. SES or Glow light is not on when it dies. I have not check for codes yet.

Two weeks ago I cleaned all of the grounds that I could reach / find. Had a difficult time with the main engine to frame braided strap, and could not find the one under the dash. Doing that seemed to take care of the problem for 1.5 weeks. Began to stall again. Last night I changed the fuel filter, which was approx 6 months old. When attempting to purge the air, I had to cycle the key a number of times before fuel would come out.

Regarding the FSD, I read the tech bulletin

[More Power]

As long as the pump is not physically rotated to assist in removing the FSD, you won't need to re-time the injection system - whether you re-use the original FSD module or install a new one.

Some have not had to retime the injection system when they rotated the pump, but they scribed accurate marks on the pump flange and front timing cover to aid them in getting the exact same pump alignment during re-assembly.

The fuel injection timing will need to be reset if the DS4 fuel injection pump, CKP (crank position sensor), timing chain set or PCM (Powertrain Control module) is replaced.

MP

[JTodd]

Does the lack of fuel when I tried to purge the filter indicate a pump problem, or is that the way it works?

[patrick m.]

many here, including me, have had trouble with the ignition switch. When my switch started going bad, it would stall among some other things.
One thing i noticed, is when it stalled, and i cylcled the key, the "service engine soon" lite sometimes would not come on with the ignition on (engine off) as it should. When this happend, it would not start. I could play with the key untill the lite would come on, then it would start.
Try to see if this is the case on your vehicle, if it is, you probably need a new ign switch.
good luck.

[ucdavis]

Ignition switch on a high miler like you'rn is a good place to check. Could be the culprit.
If the filter isn't getting fuel for a purge, check your process including whether Lift Pump may not be getting full time voltage to send fuel while runningl If that's intermittent you could be having fuel starvation at heavy acceleration. On my rig there is an empty female spade connector on a red wire next to the fuel relay, marked "Fuel Pump." Put 12V to that & it runs the LP for filling filter bowl or other chores. If you don't hear the tick-tick-tick of the LP when idling, change the Oil Pressure Switch (OPS) probably behind #7. Or you can run 12V straight to the grey wire on LP to run it if you can't find the empty spade slot.
Worst case is switch & LP check out, & FSD nuts are OK or don't provide relief. Next stop is to have codes read & repost.

[jspringator]

Jeff - 300,000 miles! That is my goal. You must be doing somethng right. Ignition switches go out on Miatas with less than 50,000 miles! Good luck!

[CareyWeber]

All,

I have 172K miles on my truck now. I had the pump replaced under warranted at about 97K miles in 2001. I

[tom.mcinerney]

Some here have used regular thermal transfer paste. Beta's FSD HeatTransferPads are an engineered solution ; the more recent issue better yet. In an article possibly in the site's reference section, Beta suggests contacting DSG . I called them; they referred me to a dealer a few hundred miles distant, who mailed me one. It was less than $10, if i recall. [ Diesel Fuel Systems Inc ,584 Odlin Road ,Bangor, ME 04401 Email <sales@dieselfuelsystems.net> 207-941-8595].
Epoxy also used; tuff to service in event transistor mtg nuts loosen.
I think the FSD HTP is largely a matrix(pad/mat) containing material to promote conduction, the pad prevents it flowing out hot. If the FSD mounting screws are tight (known to loosen), the surfaces clean/smooth ,and the ambient air cool,it can't be too critical.