View Full Version : 6.5L stalling/no start
countrymidi
07-08-2006, 13:43
I'm new to having a diesel and know very little about them.. and always being a chevy man i got a 94 silverado 1 ton dually. it stalled on me a time or so, over the first few months. i just restarted it and kept goin.Now it will start, run for 2 - 10 seconds and die. sometimes it will start back up and sometimes it wont.A nearby mechanic looked at it to tell me the ip was out..it could be ,but i still find that hard to beleive since it will start and run smoothly with no smoking.I 've read everything in the stalling section and find alot it difficult to check..with the wiring so packed in there.last week end it started and run 30 miles ( after sitting for a month) then went back to the stalling after 10 seconds.
Could the FSD be bad enough to fail after 2 - 10 seconds.?
In a word - Yes. It sounds like your problem is FSD / PMD.
Fetch up a new PMD (black box on the drivers side of the IP) and remote mount it on a heat sink in a cool spot near the core support. Extension wiring harnesses are available.
This is a classic issue and easy to fix. No need to remove the pump or anything else just unplug the harness and plug in a new PMD. Caution the PMD needs to be on a heat sink and be sure to get the right resistor. The resistor goes in the PMD around the plug pins. Numbers such as 5-7-9
if in doubt drop in a 7 and you should be fine.
The PMD is a set of power transistors that run the fuel controls in the IP and when they die the scenery stops going by right now.
Good luck keep us posted
Robyn
winemaker
07-08-2006, 15:00
I just got my truck at the end May and I bought it knowing it had the problem. I "borrowed" my buddy's Heath PMD cooler kit (his truck met its demise, but he was able to salvage this one component) I installed it and haven't had it stall since. I didn't bother removing the stock FSD. My buddy's wiring got torched in the accident, so I ordered a new harness from Bill Heath, unplugged the stocker, plugged in the extension harness, bolted the cooler kit to the skid plate, and that was that. It took me about a half hour, and I couldn't be happier with the results. Cheers! Brett
countrymidi
07-08-2006, 16:24
I had already ordered a new lift pump and it just arrived today. got it installed and it died 3 times. i did what i could to try to bleed any air. 4 th try it idled for about an hour in the yard.. could be a case like i had a few weeks ago where it ran for 30 miles.. who knows.. I think I'm gonna take ya'lls advise and get a remote cooler and new fsd.. I"ll Let you know how it goes.
It's interesting to see just how many people are in the same boat that I was. The day I bought my truck, I didn't even make it home before It died on me. You definatly have a typical PMD/FSD falure, From personal experience nothing works as good as a remote mounted cooler. Don't even think about mounting it on the upper part of the intake manifold (like most kits do) mine ran 10 degrees warmer there. I now have a custom heat sink just behind my front bumper with a extended wiring harness, and it NEVER gets hotter than the outside temperature. I think you'll be really happy once it's taken care of.
The most common cause seems to be the FSD/PMD, but I suggest you read this threaD: http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=2938 and the referenced article before spending money.
countrymidi
07-09-2006, 21:56
after got the air bled it ran great .. well at least for about 6 hours and got the work done; then it died on me and wouldn't start.. no surprize there... I got a new fsd and cooler ordered..just haven't decided where I"m gonna mount it yet.
get the long cable kit and mount it on the inside of the front splash pan down front. The pan will rotate down with the removoal of the two bolts at the front frame member and you can see right up into the engine bay area.
Others have mounted the FSD up on the core support.
Bottom line is get it as far from the big heat as you can
Patrick m.
07-10-2006, 16:05
if the fsd doesnt do the trick, your mechanic may be right with regard to needing a pump. If the optical sensor is failing, the pump must be replaced as that sensor is not serviced seperately.
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