6.5 turbo diesel

[Golden Guy]

If your injector pump packs it in do you get an error code.

[Hubert]

What year truck? Really what's the IP. Usually there are codes indicating a bad IP for most common failures on electronic IP's. Or at least they usually don't die w/o some type of code. (Note FSD won't give a code but acts like IP is totally dead). But as I read somewhere on here or other forum: remember codes are diagnostic tools not necessarily hard indicators of the root problem. You have to weigh symptoms, codes, and elvaluate the problem before condeming parts.

[Golden Guy]

I'm trying to trouble shoot a stalling and not really starting anymore problem. Started out as high speed hicups occationally. Parked it in the back yard and used it to operate a winch for a month running it at idle speed only. About 5 hours. Went to drive it out and it started stalling and stalling and stalling. Now not running at all. 40,000 km's on a new injector pump.( I think I might have been ripped off on that after reading some of these posts.) Fuel is making it to the injector pump. There is a little cylinder about 1" wide and 3" tall with a hex key hole in the top of it. We can get the engine to start and idle for a second or two if you someone taps on the cylinder with a wrench while te engine is turned over. Is this a fuel shutoff solinoid or something restricting fuel to the pump? Sould we try to pull it off and look at it?

[Robyn]

That is the fuel shutoff solenoid.
If it works when tapped on its most likely bad. Replace it

[Golden Guy]

Does the solenoid just spin off with the hex key? I leaned on it a little and it seemed pretty tight.

[Golden Guy]

Also, In the last 4 years the accelerator pedal has gone dead, the truck goes to idle and the service throttle soon light comes on. This has happened about 4 times. I turn the truck off for 5 min and it seems to be fine when restarted. Might this be a related issue to my problems or something else completely that I should be looking at while im looking at things?

[16gaSxS]

HEY GOLDEN GUY;

PLEASE fill out your signature by going to the CP. Put the year and other info on your truck. WE STILL HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YEAR TRUCK YOU HAVE.

There is major differences from 1992 to 2000 models.

WE are good but don't HAVE ESP!!!!:mad:

[Golden Guy]

How's that.

[16gaSxS]

How's that.

Much better and welcome to THE PAGE!

" In the last 4 years the accelerator pedal has gone dead, the truck goes to idle and the service throttle soon light comes on. This has happened about 4 times."

Some guys have had luck by taking the whole Pedal assembly out. Then drill a small whole in the plastic housing and flush it out with electronic contact cleaner. letting it dry and seal whole up with some RTV. The Pedal assebly is about $400 + new.:( It's cheap and worth a try. Hope this helps.

[Golden Guy]

So the problem is wornout contact points at the pedal not some malfunctioning electronics under the hood?

[MTTwister]

If tapping on the Fuel shutoff solenoid causes or cures a shutdown, then that could be problematical also. Not sure how it comes off - I know it unscrews - maybe check the members area for any trouble shooting info.

On mine, I think my hiccups - causing cruise control to drop out randomly- was the PMD, aka FSD , going bad. Did a remote mount for that little black box, too.

The APP throwing a code is definately worth pursuing, possibly 1st. I think it's more like a rheostat (sp) setup in there - but not sure. I would expect to see a moving contact across a wound resistance wire ( x3).

[Golden Guy]

Im new to working on my motor. It is offically a beater and you work on beaters not send them to the 100.00 and hour dealer. A lot of the abreviations I don't understand. What is the PMD/FSD? Does anyone know if the fuel shutoff solenoid is replaceable and how it comes off? I had a IP replaced 40,000km's ago and I would like to avoid that again. I really believe I was had at the dealer. Why are they (IP) so problematic and what can be done to prevent IP failure? Can individual parts be replaced? Is it a good idea to buy one off of EBAY? I found 3 for $550.00. I paid 1800 at the dealer for a refurbished one and $1200 in labour. It had a 20,000km warrenty. What kind of warrenty is that. Also should the lift pump be purring when the key is turned to the glow plug warmup position and should I be able to hear it in the cab of the truck? Any input would be very helpfull. Its been very helpfull already. Thanks everyone in advance!

[moondoggie]

[font=times][size=+]Good Day!

"So the problem is worn out contact points at the pedal not some malfunctioning electronics under the hood?" No way to know for sure, but it

[Golden Guy]

Thanks for all your info. The :mad: represents the state I am in because my truck has drained my pockets dry. Its one major $1000+ problem after another. About $20,000 since I bought it 120,000KM's ago. I could have leased a new one for the same price and not pulled all my hair out screwed at the side of the road countless times. Im going to give a good effort with the help of you guys here and try to sort out the problems myself without taking it to a dealer. Thank you for all your help.

[More Power]

I'd suggest reading the "stalling" thread here in the 6.5 forum. :)

Also, we have a Member Area tech page devoted to DS4 Stalling & Troubleshooting (http://www.thedieselpage.com/members/tt99-9.htm) that contains additional information about electrical pinouts as well as a step by step procedure for solving these sorts of problems.

Jim

[TurboDiverArt]

Thanks for all your info. The :mad: represents the state I am in because my truck has drained my pockets dry. Its one major $1000+ problem after another. About $20,000 since I bought it 120,000KM's ago. I could have leased a new one for the same price and not pulled all my hair out screwed at the side of the road countless times. Im going to give a good effort with the help of you guys here and try to sort out the problems myself without taking it to a dealer. Thank you for all your help.
Take a breath, hang in there, it'll get fixed. Barring a damaged pump from poor lubricity in the fuel you are using, it's probably the electronic driver. If your fuel pump was replaced in the past 7 years it was probably rebuilt using the new seals so you are good there. The pump was revised like 3 times. I don

[gvig]

Golden Guy,

A pump off eBay is a possibility, but it is a gamble. I bought my present IP on eBay, paid all of $70 for it, including shipping. I took it to a diesel shop, had it checked out on the Stanadyne test computer, it was in perfect shape.

It probably was a warranty pull off from a GM/Chev dealer where the problem had actually been the FSD. The check out cost an additional $60. It works very well on my truck. The risk might not pay off, but then again if bucks are tight it might be worth a try. How many can you buy at that price before you have the price of a $550 to $700 or more pump??

George

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

As TurboDiverArt says, hang in there. I was blessed by having run into the Page B4 I started having any problems; unfortunately it didn't happen that way for you. When my 1st FSD failed, I not only knew what to do to (hopefully) get me home, but it only cost me the price of the FSD for a fix, ~ $260.00 In the same situation without the Page, I would have had the dealer replace the IP for ~ $1800.00, which would have coincidentally fixed the real problem (the FSD comes with the IP).

"..used it to operate a winch for a month running it at idle speed only. About 5 hours." Some have speculated that at least some of the FSD failures are not necessarily due to the electronic components in the FSD getting too hot and/or failing for other reasons, but the extreme under-hood temperature extremes. Some of the folks on the Page have reported astonishingly high under-hood temps after shutting down, especially in the summer, especially when towing. I would expect that the use you've described would cause this situation too. The thought is that these temp extremes are causing expansion/contraction problems in the FSD. This is borne out by at least a couple folks removing the potting from the drive transistor pins & finding broken solder joints on the PCB, which were fixed by re-soldering. I have two failed FSD's that (some day) I'm going to check for this. Presently my FSD is remote-mounted behind the driver-side headlight, in front of the battery, which is IMHO one of the two best locations, the other being where Heath puts the unit he sells.

Blessings!

(signature in previous post)

[TurboDiverArt]

Presently my FSD is remote-mounted behind the driver-side headlight, in front of the battery, which is IMHO one of the two best locations, the other being where Heath puts the unit he sells.

Blessings!

(signature in previous post)
Hey Moondoggie, that saves me a question to the board! I had my Heath cooler installed in the usual location. After the intercooler installation I tied it up behind the drivers battery in the engine compartment. I was rushed and didn't have another quick option. I'm planning to swap out headlights on my truck to dual sealed beams from an 89 this weekend. I'm going to have the grill and headlight brackets off the truck.

When you mount the Health cooler back there, which side of the radiator support are you mounting it to? I haven't looked close enough as to how much room there is between the headlight bracket and the radiator support, I

[joed]

Art,

I already had my intercooler installed when I ordered the FSD isolator from Heath - because of that he suggested I use his 2wd version since the plate is configured differently.

Since you probably have Heath's 4wd version, this may not work for you but...

I mounted the isolator flush (plate horizontal) to the passenger side of the front bumper, using one of the tow hook bolts for one side of it and a pre-existing bumper hole for the other side. I just had to drill a couple different holes in the isolator plate. In this location it definetly gets airflow - the drawback is that you can see it somewhat, although since the intercooler is already hanging down there it's not a big deal to me.

Just a thought. Joe.

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

"When you mount the Health cooler back there, which side of the radiator support are you mounting it to?" I don't have a Heath unit. In a former life I was an Electronics Tech, so know a tiny bit about such things, plus have access to salvage parts. I built my own FSD cooler with a heat sink that appears to be the same size as what JK & others sell. When 1st installed on my truck, an ~ 1/8" aluminum plate was mounted to the intake like lots of non-Heath units, the heat sink on top of the plate, the FSD on the bottom, heat sink compound on all mounting surfaces. The original FSD was removed from the IP & mounted here & failed after awhile; a subsequent FSD failed too after I think ~ 2 years. So, I copied RJ's idea & moved the whole thing between the driver side battery & the sheet metal that holds the radiator etc. I think I improved a little on RJ's mount - the fins on my heat sink are vertical, which I think will promote better airflow. (Sorry, RJ, you're still my hero, but I think those fins should be vertical, not horizontal.)

I intend to make some big holes in the sheet metal, but don't know when I might get to it. I'm unconcerned - there's already holes in the sheet metal on mine, for trucks with different headlights than mine has. Plus, I think the battery does a pretty good job of attenuating the extreme temp excursions seen underhood. Yeah, if there's room, in front of the radiator support sheet metal would probably be better, but I didn't have time to explore other options when I mounted mine, I was just glad to have enough time to get it off the intake.

"Sorry for hijacking the thread a little." I think Golden Guy can profit from this discourse, so I'm not sure any hijack occurred.

Blessings!

(signature in previous post)

[ronniejoe]

So, I copied RJ's idea & moved the whole thing between the driver side battery & the sheet metal that holds the radiator etc. I think I improved a little on RJ's mount - the fins on my heat sink are vertical, which I think will promote better airflow. (Sorry, RJ, you're still my hero, but I think those fins should be vertical, not horizontal.)


Actually, I got that location from Kennedy's website...

[TurboDiverArt]

Actually, I got that location from Kennedy's website...
Now that's something I think we can all agree on.... Kennedy is our hero! :D

Moondoggie, thanks for the info. I'll have the headlight brackets out so I can see if there is room back behind them but in front of the radiator support. I'll figure something out!

Art.

[Patrick m.]

don't worry about the APP (throttle pedal) right now, it doesn't have anything to do with "no start".
concentrate on first: why the engine tries to run when tapping the shut off solenoid. Check for power with key on, check for current draw on that circuit. If you cant check current draw, "feel" it while someone works the key.

I believe it is removable, you may want to get it off and check operation, a little visual confirmation.....

Eliminate one item at a time, and mark it off the list of possible culprits, it will be up and running in no time.

Also about the lift pump noise...... they are usually loud only when fuel is not present, as soon as they get primed, and start pumping fuel, they get quieter...my observation.