1996 Ford 8 Lug Aluminum On 1994 Burb?

[Low_Bridge]

I came accross a set of 1996 Ford 8 Lug Aluminum Rims with the 285 75 16's I been lookin for-

I tried them on for size, front & back and they seemed ok.

It did hit to the rear on the front tires -

is this what turning the torsion bars up 5 turns will fix?

So turn the torsion bars up 5 turns and go back & try the fronts on again?

Thanks & Happy New Year

[stingthieves]

Sorry Bill, Ford rims center on the wheel studs and Chevy rims center on the wheel center hole. Don't ask me how I know how bad a Ford wheel can shake on my truck. Rick

[Low_Bridge]

No I don't get it. But Now I'm paranoid as I didnt go down the road with them on :confused:

Heck that's why I asked, right? :(

[gvig]

If the price was right, you can take the rims to a machine shop and have them turned to accept an insert that will center on the hub. Its been done before. Small cost to use the rims if they are what you want.

[DA BIG ONE]

Interesting, ALCOA centers on studs too on my 99 burb is there some issue I should be concerned with, or?

[Low_Bridge]

I'm green on this - But they are alcoa's made for ford

The guy upgraded to 35's & lifted his truck-

[DmaxMaverick]

I think there is more to it than just model year. I've heard both sides of the argument, about equally.

My '95 (chassis/cab) is lug-centric, and has aftermarket steel wheels on it, and no balance issues. Hub-centric wheels may have flat nuts, and the lug-centrics will have angled (acorn). My '95 has angled, as does every GM truck I've owned. Guess I've never had the pleasure of having hub-centric, but I've seen them. Ford has been the same way. Some do, some don't. A dually on the other hand....

If the lug holes are chamfered, they should be OK. If you get them on, and have a vibration you can't get rid of, then we need to look at the reason for one or the other, within the models and years. Could be the nuts/wheels have been replaced without our knowledge. Most ppl don't have TDP as a resource to check on these things.

[Low_Bridge]

One thing we did when we bolted them on to test the fit was use my lug nuts-reason being his lugs were not metric. We held them up to each other and the taper appeared the same taper on his lugs & mine

The guy lives about 2 miles fom me- the tread is about 70%+ & the wheels are nice. $300 Clams

Heck depending on the rest of the feedback I get I may ask him if he'll let me put them on and take em for a spin?

What do you think run em up to 50 MPH should tell the story or is it that thing that shows up around 60 mph or so?

[Kennedy]

Biggest issue that I see is that the fronts will stick out a bunch wider than stock due to offset differences.

The GM PYO aluminums will fit and look quite nice too.

[Low_Bridge]

"Biggest issue that I see is that the fronts will stick out a bunch wider than stock due to offset differences"

I may find that because of this the 5 golden turns on the torsion bars don't do the trick.

As the rear of the front tire seemed to hit a good bit in the rear of the front wheel wheels-

Thanks all

[ 01-02-2006, 07:01 AM: Message edited by: Bill D'Addio ]

[Low_Bridge]

So I jack up the front of the burb-

Driver side 5 turns of the torsion Bar no Prob-

Pass side stoppped at 4 1/2 :eek:

So over to Harolds I go-

Pop the wheel on the Passenger front side & and barely Clears

SO :confused: The wheels are still at Harolds

Could take em for a test drive to see if they're smoth-

DX?: Torsion Bars are whipped?

If they are, are they a bear to replace ?

Any thoughts?

[Low_Bridge]

Originally posted by Bill D'Addio:
So I jack up the front of the burb-

Driver side 5 turns of the torsion Bar no Prob-

Pass side stoppped at 4 1/2 :eek:

So over to Harolds I go-

Pop the wheel on the Passenger front side & and barely Clears

SO :confused: The wheels are still at Harolds

Could not take em for a test drive to see if they're smoth-

DX?: Torsion Bars are whipped?

If they are, are they a bear to replace ?

Any thoughts? Yous Guys runnin the 285's did you all have to trim the inner rear of the front fender?

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by Bill D'Addio:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Bill D'Addio:
So I jack up the front of the burb-

Driver side 5 turns of the torsion Bar no Prob-

Pass side stoppped at 4 1/2 :eek:

So over to Harolds I go-

Pop the wheel on the Passenger front side & and barely Clears

SO :confused: The wheels are still at Harolds

Could not take em for a test drive to see if they're smoth-

DX?: Torsion Bars are whipped?

If they are, are they a bear to replace ?

Any thoughts? Yous Guys runnin the 285's did you all have to trim the inner rear of the front fender? </font>[/QUOTE]I trimmed the fender flares, next coated the inside edge of the fender w/rubberised undercoating then rolled the fender to the inside for clearance. You could trim it, but then you would have an opening allowing for all kinds of cr_p to build up in the area between fender and frt/door.

[Low_Bridge]

Hmmmmm


To trim or not to trim? B

What's ya'lls best guess on rpm reduction from 265 to 285 on the Highway-?

I noted when I popped the front wheel on today the hole in the center of the wheel was larger than that on the hub- So mabe cause their Alcoas thats their deal? (centering by the lug nuts)


I guess I could pop them on the rear and evaluate their ride befor I take the cut off disc to the inner?, though we know things tend to show up more in the front

[stingthieves]

I noted when I popped the front wheel on today the hole in the center of the wheel was larger than that on the hub- So mabe cause their Alcoas thats their deal? (centering by the lug nuts) Thats bcuz a Ford hub is larger! These wheels are made for a FORD! Not saying you cannot put Ford Parts on a GM - I do it all the time! :D

[Low_Bridge]

OK I'm closer to gettin it now- :confused:

[dieseldummy]

Originally posted by Bill D'Addio:
So I jack up the front of the burb-

Driver side 5 turns of the torsion Bar no Prob-

Pass side stoppped at 4 1/2 :eek:

So over to Harolds I go-

Pop the wheel on the Passenger front side & and barely Clears

SO :confused: The wheels are still at Harolds

Could take em for a test drive to see if they're smoth-

DX?: Torsion Bars are whipped?

If they are, are they a bear to replace ?

Any thoughts? I would guess that the shocks are maxed out length wise. I encountered this on my '93 after installing 285's. Longer shocks are the answer, I hear that Kennedy has them in Bilstens.

[Low_Bridge]

I would guess that the shocks are maxed out length wise. So it held your truck from going the rest of the way up?

[Low_Bridge]

I would guess that the shocks are maxed out length wise. So it held your truck from going the rest of the way up?

That makes too much sense. I'll look again

[dieseldummy]

Yeah, the shocks were too short and kept me from lifting the frontend all the way.

[Low_Bridge]

I checked & they have some upward motion left in the shock?

Back to ficklel

[DA BIG ONE]

Correct me if I'm wrong, some early 2500's had softer suspension w/semi floater rear. I'm thinking that if his truck is like this then his torson bars maybe too weak for further lift, and the adjuster cam is maxed out and hitting cross member.

Perhaps, a peep under and up into the torson bar cam adjuster to see if it is at full adjustment "bottomed out"!

[Low_Bridge]

The Passanger side was Maxed out- the driver still had some to go RE: torsion adjustment

Their still is some lift left in the shocks?

[GMCfourX4]

Bill;
On my truck, the upper control arm will hit the stop before the torsion bars are fully tightened, but we may be talking opples and aranges :D One other thing to consider is that if you crank up your torsion bars you're making the vehicle ride with the front suspension in a position it wasn't designed to live at. IE: the control arm bushings are fully tweeked (the rubber type they put on from the factory don't rotate, they just stretch, so they don't get the bolts tightened until the control arms are at ride height...), the balljoints aren't sitting in the position they were designed to ride at, you won't have ANY downward suspension travel, etc... At the very least, you'd have to get an alignment b/c the toe would be in. Just some things to think about.

-Chris

[DA BIG ONE]

Torson bars can be had from GM rated up to 10,500 lbs. I would think that the 8,600 lb units would be more than enough for a burb.

My 2500 8 wheel stud 4wd 99 burb sits about 3" higher than my 1500 4wd 96 tahoe, and has lots of adjustment left at the adjuster cam.

Many early 2500 4wd burbs only had 6 wheel stud setup so I'm thinking the entire suspension is much softer than the newer 1999 2500 4wd burbs.